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Hi all, I'm new on here and for the obvious reason that initially I need some help please. I have a '96 non-turbo 300ZX and the MAF just quit! Can't afford a new one & can't find a s/h one. I've seen a couple of motor factors advertising new ones on Ebay but both say they need fuel/ign retune. Anyone know what this means or involves? Oh and one says that his are made in the USA not China or presumably Lithuania! I need to get this sorted fast and then I'm selling it anyway.

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dont bother with any thing else but a genuine nissan maf! sure to be someone with one somewhere!!

 

dan.:cool3:

Edited by dannzx

Look to pay up to £100 for a good second hand one and as Dan said, don't bother with the cheap new crap on Ebay ;)

If you want to use a different MAF, other than Nissans Z32 Original. You're looking at an expensive remap and a rolling road session. This will cost a lot more than a 2nd hand MAF.

 

As others have said stick to the original and you can't go wrong.

  • Author
If you want to use a different MAF, other than Nissans Z32 Original. You're looking at an expensive remap and a rolling road session. This will cost a lot more than a 2nd hand MAF.

 

As others have said stick to the original and you can't go wrong.

 

I'll happily use genuine - if I can find one. No way can I afford new.

 

This is the item I'm looking at on Ebay Item number: 160372328004 which sounds like a straight replacement. If anyone cares to take a look and tell me what they think I'd greatly appreciate it.

  • Author

This is the response I've just received from an American company advertising apparently the same thing

 

'Why does it need remapping if it's the same part number as the one I'm

taking off?'

 

 

'If you are using the same unit then it doesnt require a

remap. but if you are to use it as a modification for a CA18/SR20/RB20/RB25

then it will requre calibration hence a remap.

 

-jdmmodificationsworld'

 

I don't know what those numbers refer to; can anyone enlighten me? Should I go for it?

Those numbers are engines mate, nissan 180sx, 200sx and nissan skyline engines. thats what the CA18/SR20/RB20/RB25 are. The z32 MAF is an upgrade for the 180 and 200sx.

Before you go buying one, have you tried cleaning it? Not being funny, but I thought mine had gone about 12 months ago and after a bit of reading around, I bought a can motobike carb. cleaner from the local shop for £3, took off the MAF, cleaned the terminals properly and then sprayed a shit load of the stuff on the sensor behind the wire grids. I then used a cotton bud to clean it, did the same thing again and hey presto all was fine.

 

Worth doing before you go laying out bud.

  • Author
Those numbers are engines mate, nissan 180sx, 200sx and nissan skyline engines. thats what the CA18/SR20/RB20/RB25 are. The z32 MAF is an upgrade for the 180 and 200sx.

 

OK thanks, that is the answer I was looking for on that bit.

  • Author
Before you go buying one, have you tried cleaning it? Not being funny, but I thought mine had gone about 12 months ago and after a bit of reading around, I bought a can motobike carb. cleaner from the local shop for £3, took off the MAF, cleaned the terminals properly and then sprayed a shit load of the stuff on the sensor behind the wire grids. I then used a cotton bud to clean it, did the same thing again and hey presto all was fine.

 

Worth doing before you go laying out bud.

 

Yes I saw that somewhere as well. So far I've sprayer loads of cleaner on it but I can't get cotton buts through my gauze mesh; they're only about 1.5mm holes! Anyway I sprayed loads and then tried it but without the air filter for speed but it didn't improve. I guess the filter would slow the air enough for the filament to warm up but that shouldn't be noticeable at 2500 rpm?

 

When it packed up it did go pretty instantly; Zed World thought it would have been a bit more progressive?

When I did mine, I also started out by just spraying and hoping and likewise, it made no difference. I ended up carefully removing the wire gauze and cleaning it properly. I also did the connectors on the side and made sure they were absolutely free of corrosion.

 

If you're going to take the wire gauze off, you might need a little adhesive to put it back, mine is a bit shot, but it doesn't matter as long as it still performs the right function. Just be careful not to push hard on the resistor (or whatever it is) just make sure it's clean, the hard connecting wires are important and ensure it's all dry before putting it back.

 

Failing that, you might want to check the connectors and if you're done that already, you might well indeed be looking for a.n.other MAF :(

Did the same with mine..used break cleaner..didn't have to use a cotton bud and it turned out to be red under all the grime!

 

Not had a problem since.

 

gud luck

  • Author

Just tried all that; it looks clean but still doesn't want to know. Even checked the voltage from 'B' terminal to earth and got 0.1 > 0.3 v instead of 0.8 so I'm putting my trust in the 'garaunteed' US item 'cos it's all I can find. We'll see!

  • Author
Did the same with mine..used break cleaner..didn't have to use a cotton bud and it turned out to be red under all the grime!

 

Not had a problem since.

 

gud luck

 

What was red?

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