Why did i start this:sweatdrop:...is there any little hoses or conn lurking behind engine by firewall that people like me [engine removal virgin] miss when pulling engine out......i am nearly there i think:wacko:

the only things that you "need" that sit behind the engine are matrix water hoses, turbo water feeds, det sensor (if keeping, of course) and VVT wires. every thing else can be junked, which is only the EGR valve and connecting hoses, so the rear should look a bit like this...

 

bearing in mind, ive done a throttle body bypass, which i would recomend if you're pulling your engine

 

the only things that you "need" that sit behind the engine are matrix water hoses, turbo water feeds, det sensor (if keeping, of course) and VVT wires. every thing else can be junked, which is only the EGR valve and connecting hoses, so the rear should look a bit like this...

 

bearing in mind, ive done a throttle body bypass, which i would recomend if you're pulling your engine

 

 

Cool looks like i have removed it all, what about the oil lines from cooler were do i need to remove them from?

 

Also i cannot get on to the jubilee clip holding lwr turbo hose hard pipe in place below throttle body on o/s!! can i leave this in situ?

Cool looks like i have removed it all, what about the oil lines from cooler were do i need to remove them from?

 

Also i cannot get on to the jubilee clip holding lwr turbo hose hard pipe in place below throttle body on o/s!! can i leave this in situ?

 

the oil lines can either be removed directly from the sump and oil tree or from the hard pipes on the left inner bay liner, i presume you mean the engine oil cooler and not a gearbox cooler.

 

the only IC intake pipes that need removing completely are the four "hard pipes", the two large diameter plastic pipes (one each side lower down) just need disconecting from the sides of the radiator, they are a pain in the arse but do bend quite nicely to allow them to pop out.

the oil lines can either be removed directly from the sump and oil tree or from the hard pipes on the left inner bay liner, i presume you mean the engine oil cooler and not a gearbox cooler.

 

the only IC intake pipes that need removing completely are the four "hard pipes", the two large diameter plastic pipes (one each side lower down) just need disconecting from the sides of the radiator, they are a pain in the arse but do bend quite nicely to allow them to pop out.

 

Cheers again i am nearly there:sweatdrop:

keep at it dude, you'll have it out in no time :)

keep at it dude, you'll have it out in no time :)

 

Right then is this normal clutch feels pretty crap bites very low down , well just off carpet and does not clear very well!! see the nut added to the end of the rod:sad:

the nut's not normal but, the gap between the clutch fork and cylinder body looks ok. have you adjusted it at the pedal?

 

although saying that, the rod looks slightly at a piss from your pic

the nut's not normal but, the gap between the clutch fork and cylinder body looks ok. have you adjusted it at the pedal?

.

 

although saying that, the rod looks slightly at a piss from your pic

 

Not done any adjustments yet! was waiting to get engine out and look at clutch just in case it was that.

 

Going back to the oil lines from cooler [engine] been looking at them is it easier to discoinect on the chassis leg near the front of the car? and if so would the hoses come up threw with engine.

 

Thats all i have left to do oh and disconnect top gearbox bolts

 

Dave

Edited April 11, 201015 yr by yewcheck

there should be solid hard lines running along the side of the engine bay just by where the alternator is, going to the front where the cooler sits, the rubber pipes coming from the engine will be fixed to those hard lines via jubblee clips or those stupid screw versions. you can disconnect from those and let the rubber hoses dangle.

 

the easyest way to get at the top bolts on the gearbox is with a 1 1/2 to 2 foot extention with a UJ and 14mm socket on the end.

there should be solid hard lines running along the side of the engine bay just by where the alternator is, going to the front where the cooler sits, the rubber pipes coming from the engine will be fixed to those hard lines via jubblee clips or those stupid screw versions. you can disconnect from those and let the rubber hoses dangle.

the easyest way to get at the top bolts on the gearbox is with a 1 1/2 to 2 foot extention with a UJ and 14mm socket on the end.

 

And get to them from under car? [how many fixing bolts all together?]

 

Thats ex where i have just disconnected the pipes from:cool3:

Edited April 11, 201015 yr by yewcheck

yep, get to them from under the car so the ratchet is at the prop shaft end of the box,

there are 10 bolts in total, seven bolts are going through bell housing to block, and three go the other way, from block to bell housing

Right then is this normal clutch feels pretty crap bites very low down , well just off carpet and does not clear very well!! see the nut added to the end of the rod:sad:

 

Clutch is goosed and has been bodged to alter pedal height id say.

Clutch is goosed and has been bodged to alter pedal height id say.

 

John said the same thing, but clutch has not done that many miles, i guess with the bhp its running may need something better...............any suggestions??

 

Dave

RPS street max or similar seems to be the prefered choise of clutch, either that or a twin plate

RPS street max or similar seems to be the prefered choise of clutch, either that or a twin plate

 

Thats whats fitted, same one i fitted to the yella one may req a stronger one fitted:sad:

whats the torque figure you're running?

whats the torque figure you're running?

 

500ish apparently

wow!!!

 

is that Nm or ftbl?

wow!!!

 

is that Nm or ftbl?

 

foot lbs mate

Paddle clutch time then matey,RPS do one,you shouldnt need the carbon one though.Check the flywheel as it may be the reason the clutch never lasted.

bloody hell!!

 

then in that case i would suggest a tripple plate Exeddy or OS giken

Paddle clutch time then matey,RPS do one,you shouldnt need the carbon one though.Check the flywheel as it may be the reason the clutch never lasted.

 

will a paddle be up to it? would have thought a multi plate would be the route

Thanks guys, wheres the best place to get one?

 

Engine all set tobe pulled hopefully mon eve will see it out then i will check the clutch:thumbup:

drift works are fairly reasonable...

 

http://www.driftworks.com/catalog/products/exedy-hyper-triple-plate-clutch-and-flywheel-kit.html

will a paddle be up to it? would have thought a multi plate would be the route

According to RPS the single disc max clutch in paddle form is capable of taming over 600lb of torque!! The twin plates are more user friendly but hefty on the wallet :sweatdrop:

heres a link http://www.titanmotorsports.com/30tt27lbmaxs.html

Edited April 11, 201015 yr by jimmer
link added