Strange really isn't it, most of us get in our zeds and just drive em inc me.

 

Today i started removing the engine in the silver one, and just never relised the

amount of pipes large and small and loads of wire connections around the engine..........just to make the engine start and move and run, really makes you think whats going on under the bonnet when just driving around:bow:

scary isnt it!! only takes one of the bugger to malfunction to cause problems too LOL

how about when you are driving at high revs - say 7000rpm. More than just a number, its incredible to think the crankshaft is spinning 7000 times a minute inside the engine, no wonder things break lol :shock:

Its amazing how many of those you can do without, Its nice putting about half of it back.

Its amazing how many of those you can do without, Its nice putting about half of it back.

 

not to mention easier fault finding and tidier bay! :sailor:

not to mention easier fault finding and tidier bay! :sailor:

 

Like what tell me more:rockon:

the more systems you can do without, the less you have to check, a/c, prvr, egr, aiv etc :thumbup:

the more systems you can do without, the less you have to check, a/c, prvr, egr, aiv etc :thumbup:

 

Is there a good guide available to, firstly tell me what the abbreviations mean:oops: and how to remove them:thumbup:

what you removing the engine for then???

what you removing the engine for then???

 

Manifold blowing and an oil leak or three:no::no: i hate oil leaks.

 

If you told me a month ago, i had sold my beloved yella z and bought silver streak i thought you be heading for the nut house:wacko:

 

Now 4 weeks on, the yella one has gone:crying: and i am removing my first ever 300zx engine.........weird how things pan out:blink:

 

Dave

 

Is there a good guide available to, firstly tell me what the abbreviations mean:oops: and how to remove them:thumbup:

 

 

http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/index.html

 

;)

the more systems you can do without, the less you have to check, a/c, prvr, egr, aiv etc :thumbup:

 

Is there a good guide available to, firstly tell me what the abbreviations mean:oops: and how to remove them:thumbup:

 

Lol Dave, you think there are lots of wires and connectors!!!.

You are already missing a fair few. You do not have AIV or PRVR. The EGR has been blanked off and removed. You also have an under plenum bypass.

So that's a fair few of the main ones you don't need to worry about.

 

There's not much else that you can remove unless you want to disable the HICAS and remove the A/C.

http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/index.html

 

;)

 

You cannot beat a bit of "Robo". Very helpful indeed.

 

Al.

Lol Dave, you think there are lots of wires and connectors!!!.

You are already missing a fair few. You do not have AIV or PRVR. The EGR has been blanked off and removed. You also have an under plenum bypass.

So that's a fair few of the main ones you don't need to worry about.

 

There's not much else that you can remove unless you want to disable the HICAS and remove the A/C.

 

A/C is in the bin, was looking at removing hicas is that the valve etc on the front of drivers inner wing?

 

What is required to remove it ie any parts to eliminate it [i have heard mention of hicas eliminators]

May be worth having a word with Silverbullet about this one.

I've never done this myself, so any information I gave you would just be from what I've read. Getting it form someone who has done it themselves is always the better option.

May be worth having a word with Silverbullet about this one.

I've never done this myself, so any information I gave you would just be from what I've read. Getting it form someone who has done it themselves is always the better option.

 

Cheers Stu.....Silverbullett been a real source of info:clap:

To remove hicas there are a few steps involved.

 

1) You can get a Hicas elimiator that locks the toe rods at the rear. This let's you drop the hydrolic actuator on the rear subframe and will loop the hoses together

2) To remove the front HICAS solonoid you'll need to source a N/A PS pump and PS pot and swap them in for the TT pump, pot and solonoid

To remove hicas there are a few steps involved.

 

1) You can get a Hicas elimiator that locks the toe rods at the rear. This let's you drop the hydrolic actuator on the rear subframe and will loop the hoses together

2) To remove the front HICAS solonoid you'll need to source a N/A PS pump and PS pot and swap them in for the TT pump, pot and solonoid

 

Looks to me that its staying on the car:blush: