Hi guys, i got a knackered hicas system, the tie rod joins have play in, if it was cheap enough i would have just put the full kit on from driftworks but that works out over 200quid, you can get just the lock out bar for 80 but thats not the problem on mine cos i would have to fit my knackered tie rods, and a new set of tie rods to get the hicas working properly would be about 130. i know owning a car like these are never cheap like everyone else mine has made me skint, but, i can not justify it this time so heres the mission, to make an entire lock out kit and then join the two pipes together to eliminate the hicas. how would you fabricate one, it would have to have to be adjustable to get the wheels tracked once its fitted and it couldnt be rigid cos of the suspension, whats people got to say then?

I'm a bit of a dab hand when it comes to fabricating things but i think that one of the few things i wouldnt "customise" is steering.

 

I'd stick with one of the manufactured systems. That way, if they fail, you've got a comeback should your car be damaged.

i wouldnt dare touch the front, but as its just locking off the back im willing to consider mate,

measure the rear hicas rack length, then fabricate it from stainless steel so you can weld brackets for it to be bolted on, then you will need to thread both ends for the arms to screw into ;) canbe done, just seems easy to buy one, way less hassle imo.

i can make one and stick it on the car before i can earn 200quid and sit waiting for postage lol

Driftworks were really quick when i had mine sent out.

 

Just to be clear, is it the inner joins or the outer ball joints that have play in them?

Im just thinking you'll still have issues come MOT'd time.

oh yeah the eliminator bar wont eliminate any play in the joints lol you will still have to use the stock arms if you make or buy just the eliminator bar :(

Got my Hicas arms for 28 each!

Got my Hicas arms for 28 each!

 

 

from???

i put the rack in the vice and push the tie rods in and out, thats where the play is, so surely if i can get that sorted the mot will be piss

but surely if the joints are already knackered, by locking them out, you're just gonna hide the fact that they're faulty and they will eventually fail?

from???

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-REAR-STEERING-ARM_W0QQitemZ380179081139QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item58847067b3

 

Personally, I'd not mess about with stuff like that unless you're a precision engineer or know someone who is. You'll have no way of adjusting the tracking if you get your piece slightly out of spec. It's not exactly expensive. Hicas lockout bar is about 70 - 80 and a set of arms is about 60. That's less than a year's tax.

This guy is your man, seems a dab hand with a hammer.

 

Jeff

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-REAR-STEERING-ARM_W0QQitemZ380179081139QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item58847067b3

 

Personally, I'd not mess about with stuff like that unless you're a precision engineer or know someone who is. You'll have no way of adjusting the tracking if you get your piece slightly out of spec. It's not exactly expensive. Hicas lockout bar is about 70 - 80 and a set of arms is about 60. That's less than a year's tax.

 

Yeah it will still be adjustable like it is now,

the only bit you can fabricate would be the centre bar, you would still have to use the same rods and ends which you say have play. you would need to be able to cut a thread in eliminator.

 

also i would not use stainless on this. if you were to use the correct grade it would cost nearly as much to buy a new eliminator.

 

i would not make one and ive built a car from scratch (not the steering rack) and im a design engineer.

 

please dont do it.

ok dougal mate, i got hold of arms now :)