All 3 of my cars could do with being re treated. (the FTO has nothing just bare metal :( )

 

What is this stuff like is it just spray on and job done. I wanted to do all in the wheel arches, wish bones and the underneath etc.

 

Would it be safe to do the wheel arches as they are just bare matal on the fto??

 

Here is a link to the kit http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WAXOYL-under-body-wax-sealant-2-5lt-Sprayer-kit-CLEAR_W0QQitemZ290358456675QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint?hash=item439ab67163&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

 

:D

i have used waxoil for years.never had eney problems with it.its not hard to use...yes it can make a mess but after you have done it a few times its a pice of piss.i can do a hole car in 1/2 hour with the proper kit.

Not sure what im going to use??

 

The oil thing with wax oil it dosnt dry. so would sand,dirt mud etc get stuck to it??

no mate.

it wont crack and damp get under it like some.it does dry it just dont go hard.

Have any of you guys used POR 15 comes highly recommended from the classic car brigade. Lots of the TVR guys use it as well on the chassis etc.

 

H

Have any of you guys used POR 15 comes highly recommended from the classic car brigade. Lots of the TVR guys use it as well on the chassis etc.

 

H

 

Haven't used it myself but it does seem to be highly recommended. I use dinitrol products.

http://www.expresspaints.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=73

 

 

Use this stuff a lot easy to use, just mask up anything you dont want painted and blast away.

 

Also this is good stuff

 

http://www.expresspaints.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=5_12&products_id=2079

Edited November 14, 200916 yr by jmwuk

Only ever used waxoyl myself and have had no probs. messy job but well worth it.make sure all trim is removed, the mist will stick to anything.you can thin the stuff down but with 50 psi you wont have to. Use the clear for inside and the black for under the heavy impact areas.

I have used Waxoyl several times in the past. It's not the easiest to use as the stuff needs to be heated up so that it becomes runny enough to spray. The manual spray kit is a bit of pain to use and requires constant pumping to maintain pressure. It seemed to protect well enough. However it is definitely old hat when compared to more modern stuff and these days I'd use waxoyl as a last resort-It is definitely better than nothing though.

 

Recently I have used Dinitrol cavity wax injected under pressure with a compressor. Good stuff, creeps into seams and joins in metalwork. Easy to use with a compressor and a schutz gun with a probe attachment for cavities.

 

Over the last week I have been rustproofing a '53 plate Merc Vito which, as usual these days with Mercs just cant wait to rust away like an old Lada! I used 3M cavity wax. it comes in aerosol, 1 ltr gun tubs, 5 litre and 10 litre tins. It was easy to work, runs into seams etc well enough from what I can see and I would definitely use it again. I paid £6.50 +vat for 1 litre tubs and £6.00+vat for 500ml aerosols. Again I used a schutz gun with a cavity probe for most of the job.

 

I need to do my Z which is an import and still rust free so far. I will either use 3M (available from trade motor factors and paint suppliers) or I fancy trying Bilt Hamber wax.

 

http://www.bilthamber.com/index.html

 

They have a good website and they are highly recommended in the classic car mags.

There is a comparison of three products on their website.

It compares their stuff with Waxoyl and Dinitrol and it looks to provide excellent results.