The HID lights are driving me crazy;

 

At my fu**ing wits end with this........

 

Have cut the wire on the main loom to put the female spade on it.

 

This all connected up and the light didnt come on the first light setting then on second beam it made the noise...du dudu du and flickered......but it will not stay on.

 

So i gave up on the HIDs and went to see if my original bulb would work.....which it wouldnt. So ive snipped away part of the loom and tried to get it to work, now nothings happening and nothings working.

 

Very very very very pi$$ed off with this now im raging. Anybody dum this right down for me as i done want DTA said as i originally thought and all that done was create a noise and flicker.....AHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

gutted for ya mate... if it was all standard before it would have been a walk in the park - mine took 10 mins for both sides! :(

It basically was standard mate apart from only having to change the one crimp...that seemed the only problem......now tho its totally ****ed up and i dont have a clue how to sort it so was hping for alittle help before i smash my lights.lol.

I have some spare lights if you do end up smashing them lol :D

i recently did mines have you checked to see if its blown the fuse?

 

dan.:)

HID's consume a lot of power, have the engine running and try again. Flickering and switching off is what happens if you turn them on with a low battery.

 

Coming on 2nd setting only is correct. 1st is side lights (in your bumper) and 2nd is dipped beam.

 

If your stock bulbs are no longer working, then sounds as if you may have blown a fuse, which would mean its wired up wrong or allowed the positive wire to touch an earth/metal.

 

I've not followed your HID problems though. It should be as straight forward as fitting regular bulbs. The 2 HID wires which should be spades should just plug into the stock Headlight bulb connector and thats it.

 

If somebody has messed around with the stock bulb connectors previously then its just a case of connecting up the HID Positive to the positive feed and earthing the negative, which can be either the stock earth wire or you could just earth it to the chassis anywhere.

Edited August 6, 200916 yr by Yowser

I did try earthing the HID negative which didnt work.lol.

 

Can someone tell me where i can locate the fuse please? Its the drivers side light im looking for. Also the battery may be a slight problem also, as it has been sitting for nearly 3 weeks now. But starts everytime.

i blew the fuse when did mines its in the engine bay fuse box 10 amp.

 

dan.:D

Ok mate. Will have a rumage through there c what i find. Then will need to try it again with the car running as the battery will be low.

if you do a search in help and advise for H3, H3c, H3u and see if it helps.

 

 

dan.:D

HID's consume a lot of power, have the engine running and try again. Flickering and switching off is what happens if you turn them on with a low battery.

 

Coming on 2nd setting only is correct. 1st is side lights (in your bumper) and 2nd is dipped beam.

 

If your stock bulbs are no longer working, then sounds as if you may have blown a fuse, which would mean its wired up wrong or allowed the positive wire to touch an earth/metal.

 

I've not followed your HID problems though. It should be as straight forward as fitting regular bulbs. The 2 HID wires which should be spades should just plug into the stock Headlight bulb connector and thats it.

 

If somebody has messed around with the stock bulb connectors previously then its just a case of connecting up the HID Positive to the positive feed and earthing the negative, which can be either the stock earth wire or you could just earth it to the chassis anywhere.

 

i thought they use less power Dave ???

i thought they use less power Dave ???

 

I know they are advertised that way and indeed the light output wattage is lower, but the ballasts eat battery power and require constant high voltage or they dont work.

 

Many times I've seen HID's flickering and going out, or not even turning on at all when used without an engine running with a less than 100% battery.

I think they need a fair whack of current at startup to actually get the arc started, but then it drops down substantially in operation.