Well what can i say. I took my car to get road tested today and it failed on emissions. Fookin fumin!!! I can't understand it as it has never failed before. It only got tested on the 18th March in UK when the MOT was done. I think the bloke that did it hasn't a clue:xxx:

It passed everything else, just failed this. I noticed i had left the Boost controller on. Would this have mad a difference??

Does anyone have the readings that the zed are tested by. Im sure this bloke has fooked up:rant:

I'm off to a German test center Saturday to prove him wrong!!!:rant:

Edited April 30, 200916 yr by jonce

Do you know if they tested it as a Catalyst equipped car or not ? In the UK it would of been tested under non-cat emissions.

mine was the same untill i found that the jap spec has to go down as a pre cat test :)

Pull the vac pipe.

mine was the same untill i found that the jap spec has to go down as a pre cat test :)

 

same for UK spec

Is it really?? i never knew that. i thought it was just the jap spec as it isnt on the data base (fairlady) but the 300zx (uk) was ???

Is it really?? i never knew that. i thought it was just the jap spec as it isnt on the data base (fairlady) but the 300zx (uk) was ???

 

The 300zx is'nt on the emissions database at all. Its only post-95 models they have to test as Cat equipped.

Excelentay :D

 

But how come??

So it has to be tested as no cat then? I just put up the results.

So it has to be tested as no cat then? I just put up the results.

 

It should be but thats in the uk. Germany may be differant???

Where would i find the information to prove it because the civvi inspectors are jobsworths!!

It should be but thats in the uk. Germany may be differant???

 

But the test is of to UK MOT standards though. Thats why im thinking of going to a German TUV center. If it passes there it will pass anywhere LOL

But the test is of to UK MOT standards though. Thats why im thinking of going to a German TUV center. If it passes there it will pass anywhere LOL

 

Should be a precat test then. mine past with 2 bust 02 sensors and was over fueling like a pig lol!!

I have just realized that may have found the problem. My first date of registration is showing 16/6/2000 which was the date of import. The army have took this date and classed the car as a W reg. So he may have looked at that because the document doesnt show date of manufacture.

That will be the problem then :D

My Zed was done as No Cat Test!! Pass Everytime :D

From the printout it failed on fast idle CO (5.64%, should be 0.5% max) and lamba (0.869, too rich).

 

http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/co/co.html

Hello mate,

 

I got mine done at the Sennelager test center. While they are seriously grumpy b@st@rds there seemed more on side.

 

Bielefeld is also supposed to be very onside. Ticked the right box even with UK lights kinda thing.

 

Mensergh are known to be total @ssholes.

Getting a BFG reg sounds a bit different from the days when you just used to take it down to the LAD for a quick once over and bob was your mums best friend :rofl:

Tell me about it!!! Its phoo now. The days of Herfy yellow handbags have well gone:cry:

Right then, i've been doing a little reading about this base idle and Auto to manual conversion thing (which i have just had done!) and my idle has risen again.

As i read it, i have to come to the conclusion that the idle was(is) controlled by the Auto gearbox and the main ECU. My issue is that some members say earth pin 44 at the ECU, others say lead a wire from the gearbox plug and ECU, then others say don't do it because the timing will be constantly incorrect.

All the threads were quite old. So what is the main trail of thought on this now??:confused:

As my car has just failed immisions, my thoughts go to this problem as there would be an error code on my ECU saying 'wheres me fookin box!!??' I wish i had consult here FFS:headvswal:( and the timing would be out.

Edited May 3, 200916 yr by jonce

Anyone??

Spoke and show another test center the results today and they said that the wrong test had been done. The problem is though, the guy recons that even with the non cat test the fast idle reading won't change much and seeing that i have to try and get it below 3.50 may be a problem. FFS

Right then, i've been doing a little reading about this base idle and Auto to manual conversion thing (which i have just had done!) and my idle has risen again.

As i read it, i have to come to the conclusion that the idle was(is) controlled by the Auto gearbox and the main ECU.

 

The manual conversion has no bearing on the idle issue, just a set point at which it became noticable, the auto ecu does not control the idle speed.

 

The idle control valve itself is the most likely candidate for causing this particular issue, very likely the part that raises the revs when cold is sticking, or the connection is bad, sometimes the unit require cleaning internally but sometimes replacement is the only answer if all else fails.

 

Incidently if the issue is with the idle control valve and it is now replaced the original settings have now been corrupted by adjusting the base idle screw instead of correcting the real fault, so will need setting up again.

 

My issue is that some members say earth pin 44 at the ECU, others say lead a wire from the gearbox plug and ECU, then others say don't do it because the timing will be constantly incorrect

 

By leaving pin 44 earthed you telling the ecu its in neutral all of the time, the timing issue ONLY arises when checking the base ignition setting at tickover and provided it is still set up correctly using both a timing gun and ConZult diagnostic (as yours was )15 deg + 10 deg = 25 deg for no earth at pin 44 then thats fine, as soon as the throttle opens the base idle ignition setting is not used.

 

Regards

 

 

Jeff TT

Cheers Jeff, Im trying again tomorrow LOL;)