Hey,

 

What's the best way without using a press to get the bloody HICAS ball joints out?

 

Cheers,

Ste

you need a bottle of MAPP gas...butane and methylacetylene-propadiene, so burns a lot hotter. Ive got one in my plumbers bag..its a tall yellow bottle but the atuall torch head iirc is about £45

 

is there anywhere on a sunday that might sell this around the north west?

is there anywhere on a sunday that might sell this around the north west?

 

think b&q do it..they open at 10am on sundays

think b&q do it..they open at 10am on sundays

 

Nice one!

 

hopefully that'll do the business.

 

Cheers for your help fellas!! :bow:

i going to do mines soon so any more tips are great!:dance:

 

dan.:D

I used a big C clamp and socket to change one of mine, with some smacks to the hub with a hammer it eventually came out. Id be very wary of using a lot of heat on the alloy hub.

found this for some ideas!

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=1078972&forum=technical&dtSearch=0

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sealey-Ak380-Ak380-Ball-Joint-Puller_W0QQitemZ400040003697QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item400040003697&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

 

dan.:D

Edited March 29, 200916 yr by dannzx

found this for some ideas!

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=1078972&forum=technical&dtSearch=0

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sealey-Ak380-Ak380-Ball-Joint-Puller_W0QQitemZ400040003697QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item400040003697&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

 

dan.:D

 

The mapp gas and lump hammer works a treat, ten minutes to finish off the one. Going to do the other after dina

 

Aslong as you don't heat the hub for too long it'll be fine!

 

Use a socket and an extension you don't need anymore otherwise the heat soak might be too much.

The mapp gas and lump hammer works a treat, ten minutes to finish off the one. Going to do the other after dina

 

Aslong as you don't heat the hub for too long it'll be fine!

 

Use a socket and an extension you don't need anymore otherwise the heat soak might be too much.

 

good job

good job

 

lol, the second one came out in three hits :o

 

Mapp gas is the way forward :)

lol, the second one came out in three hits :o

 

Mapp gas is the way forward :)

 

so run through what you did and with what please?

 

dan.:D

so run through what you did and with what please?

 

dan.:D

 

get yourself a grinder, a lump hammer, chisel, a socket and extension you don't need( it'll take abit of abuse) and some MAPP gas.

 

The MAPP gas is in a yellow bottle and it's available from B n Q

 

The ball joint has a flange, you need to grind off most of the ball joint and thin the flange down, like in the link above until you can peel it up with the chisel. Be careful not to grind the hub though. Once it's clear of the face of the hub get the MAPP gas on the hub (prob better side opposed to face on, so the alloy expands quicker), let it heat up until the gunk starts flowing out of the ball joint.

 

Then drift (twat it) it until it falls out the other side by the suspension lower leg.

 

Easy (he says with a bit of irony lol :o)

 

HTH

 

Ste

Edited March 30, 200916 yr by stenorth
make it read more clearly

well m.o.t. is due soon and the last advisory said slight play in the joints so i got a new pair of hi-cass balljoints and going to have a go! :smash:

 

dan.:)

That bop it thru + grind it method works ok on one side, cos you can swing hammer at it.

The other side was a bas%ard.Reduced me to sweaty tears + fury.You are fighting AGAINST a taper is the problem! Look at the way the taper goes on a new one to see what i mean.

After a lot of aggro, we welded a bolt onto the remains of the balljoint end, then put a socket over it+ washer + nut+bingo .

Two minutes later the sod wound out!

Absolute piece of pee once welded on.

well m.o.t. is due soon and the last advisory said slight play in the joints so i got a new pair of hi-cass balljoints and going to have a go! :smash:

 

dan.:)

Did the tester mean the inner ones.? Id check if i was you.The outers are less prone to failing and often get changed by mistake.

Did the tester mean the inner ones.? Id check if i was you.The outers are less prone to failing and often get changed by mistake.

 

now that is a good point! :o

 

dan.

Easy to tell, jack the back up + watch as the somebody moves the wheel back and forth at 3.00+ 9.00 position.

before i start sorry i am going to ask some stupid questions i know!:slap: well i have had a look at the hi-cass ball joints and they are fooked! a lot of up and down travel and they sqealsh! my questions are:

 

1. after removing the split pin and nut how do you get the arm off the ball joint?

 

2. i can see from the new one the taper so it must come out threaded end first?

 

3.is it there that is ground away leaving the inside that can be heated and melted out?

 

any help would be gratefull thanks.:o

 

dan.:D

This is what you need, your local motor factors or Halfords should have one.

 

 

 

Jeff TT

This is what you need, your local motor factors or Halfords should have one.

 

 

 

Jeff TT

 

THANKS!:dance: take it it must be simply to do then with this?:o

 

dan.:D

THANKS!:dance: take it it must be simply to do then with this?:o

 

dan.:D

 

That above splits the ball joint or you could use a tuning fork lol!

 

Once that's out of the wheel hub should seperate from the hicas arm

 

It looks like a kodak film canister in metal, the lip of it sits proud of the hub that holds it, you need to grind this effectively so there's nothing to stop you from drifting it out towards the wheel.

 

Be careful not to damage the hub though, you should be able to grind down to a point where the lid of the film canister peels up and in on its self.

 

Heat it up and whack it a couple of times and out it falls, easy lol, as long as you use the mapp gas otherwise cold drifting is a PITA!

 

Hope that answers everything!

 

Ste

Edited June 22, 200916 yr by stenorth
Making it read a little better

thanks stenorth "Im going in!" well later perhaps.;)

 

dan.:D

i have a cunning plan! will keep you posted :rolleyes:

 

dan.:D

all done! went for the push pull method rather than heat and hit!:)

 

got a shallow 38mm socket and with a washer and nut on the hicas balljoint tightened it up it then pulled the balljoint out enough to get a pitman puller/pusher with a small socket on and pushed out the balljoint easy peesy (no heat needed) you can see the old one and the new one. Then using some different sized sockets just pushed the new balljoint in, torqued the nut up and new split pin job done. hope it helps someone.:D

 

dan.:cool: