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First of all forgive me if I'm being stupid... I know nothing about the machanics...

 

But how good are the breaks in a stock 95 Jap N/A? I don't feel like that I'm getting pushed forward when I break... I thought this could be because of the seating position in the zed. But this morning I had to break hard and I bearly managed to stop. My beamer has far better breaking power than the zed from what I feel.

 

So being dumb is there anything I can do to test? Or is there anyone around sheffield who is willing to lend a hand this weekend? :rolleyes:

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  • Author

My diagnostics,

 

break fluid ok (just below the max level),

disks pads ok (disks are shiny and pads has life on them),

when I push the padel it feels a little spongy and when I press the padel and release I get some sort of a piston expanding kind of a sound.

 

Any ideas?

 

oh btw my zed has been in the garage for about three months.

  • Author

nope, haven't heard anything like that.

 

breaks fine without any noises but when you stop and break you hear that piston expanding kind of sound mildly. I guess when you are driving you can't hear it because of the engine :)

Despite what most believe, they are actually as good as most modern performance cars (in terms of braking distances), although they do tend to lack the initial bite of modern braking systems.

 

The first thing I would do is have your your brake fliud replaced. It absorbs water over time which affects how pressure is applied and significantly lowers the boiling point. It Sounds Like it needs bleeding anyway.

 

Your should also whip of each caliper (no need to undo brake lines) and check that each piston is not seized (very common).

 

A set of performance pads Such as Ferrodo DS, Hawk HPS, Portefield will offer an improvement.

 

In my experience there is a very significant difference in braking performance between different 300zx's with stock brakes, all due to condition/maintenance.

Edited by Yowser

You may want to think about rebuilding your caliper.

You can get front rebuild kits for about 50 - 80 quid.

 

This involves dismantling them, popping the pistons out, replacing the rings and rubber seals and putting them back together.

 

Once you've done that, put a good set of pads on and replaced your brake fluid, you should get throw forward when you next brake heavily.

im in the process of doing this got the kits of ebay for 20 quid a side and mine are ally and 26mm as opposed to the normal 30mm discs also the calliper itself makes a creaking noise too! lol! there crap, before my brakes died i put dot 5 break fluid and that made a massive difference believe it or not!!

  • Author

I think I might have found what the problem is. Just checked the disks after driving home and the passenger side front disk is warmer (hot cannot touch) than the rival. I could touch the driver side disks and they are not that warm.

I think I might have found what the problem is. Just checked the disks after driving home and the passenger side front disk is warmer (hot cannot touch) than the rival. I could touch the driver side disks and they are not that warm.

 

Seized pistons probably then ....

im in the process of doing this got the kits of ebay for 20 quid a side and mine are ally and 26mm as opposed to the normal 30mm discs also the calliper itself makes a creaking noise too! lol! there crap, before my brakes died i put dot 5 break fluid and that made a massive difference believe it or not!!

 

its funny you say that, mine started creaking the other day ... quite a worrying sound tbh! just waiting for my new discs to arrive and now ordering pads and rebuild kit for it. Might aswell change to braided lines while im at it!

 

I don't find my brakes are all that bad, but i definately brake earlier than with my other cars and neither of them are brilliant tbh!

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