I shall be ordering me a new oil pump nearer the end of the month (nearer pay day + renewing my 300zx.co.uk subscription) Is there anything else other than Oil pump and gasket i need to order or is it worth changing anything else while im there??

 

Also a brief guide on "how to change the oil pump" would be a great help as I have never done one before:bow:

 

Thank you all

Just out of interest, why are you changing the oil pump? Never heard of one failing or wearing out. They appear to be one of the VG's strong points.

If you must, the following will be required

 

Removal of timing belt, so follow a 60k service guide via courtousy Z

 

Remove lower crank sprocket sometimes needs to be cut off and replaced! remove oil seal

 

jack up vehicle and place on axle stands with plenty of clearence, idealy a 2 post ramp is beneficial.

 

Engine supported via hoist or similar

 

Disconnect turbo return feeds, disconnect oil cooler hose and plug, drop crossmember to get pan out from underneath.

 

Access to oil sieve return is now accessable unbolt and remove from block. undo 5x10mm bolts to front of oil pump and gently pry away and off crank. Pay special attention to not damage the crank or mating surface.

 

Replace pump with gasket sealent, new crank oil seal. torque evenly

 

Refit oil return pipe to block. New sealent required between seal of pipe.

 

Refit sump, plus gaskets at both ends. Make sure the mating surface has had all the old sealent scraped and cleaned away, apply a neat bead of sealent around the sump, have someone place the sump in position with you as its a fiddle on your own underneath the vehicle.Do up bolts on opposite fashion to being sump in evenly, work in a criss cross style.

 

Refit turbo, oil cooler hoses.New filter

 

Evenly tighten crossmember.

 

Remove hoist or form off engine support

 

Refit new timing belt and NEW tensioner follow reverse fitting of a 60k service guide.

 

refil with new oil, make sure you have checked everything including oil level.

 

Start car and let idle until up to temp. turn off and recheck oil level.

 

Check oil pressure, but dont go by the stock z sender as its pants. If your worried about pressure get an aftermarket one installed and taped in to the line somewhere, namely the pants oem position. defi or greddy are well made and relible.

 

Iv not worked on a Z for a while so i may of missed something, but everything above is required

 

 

Greg

Parts required IMO

 

Timing belt kit if not already carried out recently? include waterpump

oil/filter/coolant

Crank oil seal

sealent

pump, gasket

 

sometimes as mentioned the lower sprocket can be an arse, so you may need a replacement one if it wont budge of the woodruff key. A small air grinder works well.

Just out of interest, why are you changing the oil pump? Never heard of one failing or wearing out. They appear to be one of the VG's strong points.

 

Mine didnt fail on my car, but it sqealed like a b***h. Had to change it. It was a right pain to do.

 

After taking the engine out for another job, I would have rather done that just to change the oil pump as well.

If you must, the following will be required

 

Removal of timing belt, so follow a 60k service guide via courtousy Z

 

Remove lower crank sprocket sometimes needs to be cut off and replaced! remove oil seal

 

jack up vehicle and place on axle stands with plenty of clearence, idealy a 2 post ramp is beneficial.

 

Engine supported via hoist or similar

 

Disconnect turbo return feeds, disconnect oil cooler hose and plug, drop crossmember to get pan out from underneath.

 

Access to oil sieve return is now accessable unbolt and remove from block. undo 5x10mm bolts to front of oil pump and gently pry away and off crank. Pay special attention to not damage the crank or mating surface.

 

Replace pump with gasket sealent, new crank oil seal. torque evenly

 

Refit oil return pipe to block. New sealent required between seal of pipe.

 

Refit sump, plus gaskets at both ends. Make sure the mating surface has had all the old sealent scraped and cleaned away, apply a neat bead of sealent around the sump, have someone place the sump in position with you as its a fiddle on your own underneath the vehicle.Do up bolts on opposite fashion to being sump in evenly, work in a criss cross style.

 

Refit turbo, oil cooler hoses.New filter

 

Evenly tighten crossmember.

 

Remove hoist or form off engine support

 

Refit new timing belt and NEW tensioner follow reverse fitting of a 60k service guide.

 

refil with new oil, make sure you have checked everything including oil level.

 

Start car and let idle until up to temp. turn off and recheck oil level.

 

Check oil pressure, but dont go by the stock z sender as its pants. If your worried about pressure get an aftermarket one installed and taped in to the line somewhere, namely the pants oem position. defi or greddy are well made and relible.

 

Iv not worked on a Z for a while so i may of missed something, but everything above is required

 

 

Greg

 

Simple as that then :confused: ha ha!!!

Cheers for that Greg, I have got a 2-post ramp to work on so that will make the job a bit easier but I'm still not looking forward to it!!

Is a crank sprocket a cheap item and worth buying just in case??

 

Si - The reason I believe the oil pump is knackard is that the oil pressure is low, or is there any thing else that could cause this??

Simple as that then :confused: ha ha!!!

Cheers for that Greg, I have got a 2-post ramp to work on so that will make the job a bit easier but I'm still not looking forward to it!!

Is a crank sprocket a cheap item and worth buying just in case??

 

Si - The reason I believe the oil pump is knackard is that the oil pressure is low, or is there any thing else that could cause this??

 

I'd put an aftermarket gauge on to double check before going through all the trouble of changing an oil pump.

Lots of Zeds have low oil pressure according to the stock guage, they are notoriusly crap, if there are no other signs of oil pump failure I would fit an aftermarket guage first.

I did check it with a seperate hand held gauge and it really was low although this was over a year ago when i first took it off the road and i cant remember the exact reading.

 

Does anyone know what standard pressure it should be pushing and I shall re-gauge it the weekend.

I'd suspect worn bottom end bearings for low oil pressure rather than the pump