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since iv had the car the gear changes have been awful clunky sometimes it just wont go in and never easy occasionally it was ok like when changing really slowly but sometimes even then its clunks in, the worst is when your gunning it through the gears it will horrendously crunch thru 3rd and 4th, its done 85k km and 10k miles - also the clutch ALWAYS smells when it comes to a stop

 

i thought id fixed it when i adjusted the clutch pedal and it kinda felt a bit better les clunky however i think iv just been lying to myself lol!

 

what should i do? buy a new box? buy a new clutch? change the box oil? is this a common fault? cant find anything on this problem

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well i had a crunch when changing from 3-4 i changed the oil to a good qwality oil. as the oil looked awful! havent had the problem since. apparently the manuals suffer from weak syncros on them gears the later boxes supposed to have "fixed" the problem.

 

i would recommend start there also check your clutch master cylinder and clutch fluid are not leaking out .

 

another possible cause 'could' be a bent clutch fork but unlikely.

 

thats not an exhausted list im sure others would be able to help out better

  • Author

clutch fluid level never changes, however the biting point changes from 'on the floor' to in the middle, when its on the floor i sometimes find it wont even go into 1st at traffic lights, ill change the box oil and check the lines - i thaught it mite of been leaking fluid but from visual checks it all seems well, wheres the box filler plug? is it inside the car? or on the side at the top? was thinking of replacing the clutch master cylinder.... if the syincros on 3rd n 4th are crap then i guess it might just be down to that...... bolox! would a later spec box fit my 92 NA? and how much am i looking at for a box

If the biting point moved then you may have a leaking master or slave. They wont be leaking externally, but leaking internally past their seals.

 

The gearbox fliud top up is on the side of the box, drivers side. 1/2" fitment to undo.

Drain plug is on bottom.

  • Author
If the biting point moved then you may have a leaking master or slave. They wont be leaking externally, but leaking internally past their seals.

 

The gearbox fliud top up is on the side of the box, drivers side. 1/2" fitment to undo.

Drain plug is on bottom.

nice one, ill get on it tomorrow!

  • 1 month later...

Im renewing this post as this is the exact same problem im having at the minute.

 

Whats involved with changing the seals? how much for a garage to tackle?

  • Author

agreed need pics of seals and how the hell too guide!! - mine still does this from time to time im having the box fluid replacing early next week so ill hopefully be able to see a difference failing that ill change the seals but the clutch is still up n down and all over the place....lol!! funny old motors these...

They are piss easy to do in the slave cylinder, i took mine apart and cleaned it out, If you can jack up the car and undo the two bolts holding it in then it will come straight off, BUT careful when undoing the hose nut you dont wanna round it off or its game over. Once its off in your hand its easy to take apart and change seals.

question: The car now slips in fifth, could this be related or is it more likely that the clutch has gone?

 

prob gonna be the clutch going... any hydraulic failure will make it hard to disengage the clutch rather than reduce it's clamping pressure; be warned - my stock clutch went VERY quickly... i.e. it started slipping in fifth on M6 knutsford and by the time I got it back to chester is was gone! It literally only packed in when I hit the rivets... which isn;t great for the flyweel :cry:

poop, so long as it can make it too zworld on friday ill be happy.

 

Unless i need a new flywheel, then ill be really sad.

 

Still, better to have one whilst i have to reddies eh?

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