When I start the car and then move it into Drive, The car pulls/creeps as normal, then I drive it for about 300 meters or so, then it just revs as if it is in neutral, then I have lost all drive.

I tried it in 2nd and 1st and it still would just Rev.

Reverse worked a little, then done the same.

I turned off the ignition, then waited about 5 minutes, started it up, and it worked again, then got like 200meters or whatever.. and done the same again.

I don't think the temperature has anything to do with it, i'm not sure if it's electrical... But any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Any Ideas people?

 

Cheers

Sounds like you have little or no gear box oil?

^^^ as above have you checked the fluid etc?

 

and you could try and drain the box and clean the strainer, may be blocked up?

 

apart from that i'd say a new box? but im no mechanic;)

Edited December 30, 200816 yr by ck300z

try this mite help To begin a diag it is best to take a short drive 2 or 3 miles to ensure full working temperature has been obtained first.and then switch OFF the engine

 

 

With overdrive switch in on position and lever in P switch on ignition but do not start engine,the A/T lamp should lit up for about two seconds then go out.

 

 

Switch off the ignition and move selector lever to D also switch OFF the overdrive, switch the ignition ON but do not start the car.

 

 

With the ignition still ON and after more than 2 seconds move the lever to 2 follow this by switching the overdrive switch ON.Then

move the lever to 1, and set the overdrive switch to OFF.

 

 

Still with the ignition on depress the accelerator pedal fully and release it. The A/T check light will now flash the appropriate blink

code as deatiled below. After this to retrurn to normal switchOFF the ignition and move lever to P and set the overdrive back ON.

 

 

 

 

Fault codes are read as follows: A long flash indicates the start and is not to be counted

 

 

 

 

One long flash and No 1 blink long rest normal = Revolution sensor circuit fault

 

 

One long flash and No 2 blink long rest normal = Speed sensor circuit fault

 

 

One long flash and No 3 blink long rest normal = Throttle sensor circuit fault

 

 

One long flash and No 4 blink long rest normal = Shift solenoid `A` fault

 

 

One long flash and No 5 blink long rest normal = Shift Solenoid "B" fault

 

 

One long flash and No 6 blink long rest normal = Overrun clutch solenoid fault

 

 

One long flash and No 7 blink long rest normal = Lock up solenoid fault

 

 

One long flash and No 8 blink long rest normal = Gearbox fluid temerature sensor circuit fault

 

 

One long flash and No 9 blink long rest normal = Engine revolution sensor circuit fault

 

 

One long flash and No10 blink long restnormal . = Line pressure solenoid circuit fault

 

 

One long flash and 10 equall length blinks...... = All clear

 

 

NOTE

If when attempting this test no A/T check lamp operation a system check of the inhibitor switch,overdrive switch,kickdown switch or idle switch circuit will be required.

try this mite help To begin a diag it is best to take a short drive 2 or 3 miles to ensure full working temperature has been obtained first.and then switch OFF the engine

 

 

With overdrive switch in on position and lever in P switch on ignition but do not start engine,the A/T lamp should lit up for about two seconds then go out.

 

 

Switch off the ignition and move selector lever to D also switch OFF the overdrive, switch the ignition ON but do not start the car.

 

 

With the ignition still ON and after more than 2 seconds move the lever to 2 follow this by switching the overdrive switch ON.Then

move the lever to 1, and set the overdrive switch to OFF.

 

 

Still with the ignition on depress the accelerator pedal fully and release it. The A/T check light will now flash the appropriate blink

code as deatiled below. After this to retrurn to normal switchOFF the ignition and move lever to P and set the overdrive back ON.

 

 

 

 

Fault codes are read as follows: A long flash indicates the start and is not to be counted

 

 

 

 

One long flash and No 1 blink long rest normal = Revolution sensor circuit fault

 

 

One long flash and No 2 blink long rest normal = Speed sensor circuit fault

 

 

One long flash and No 3 blink long rest normal = Throttle sensor circuit fault

 

 

One long flash and No 4 blink long rest normal = Shift solenoid `A` fault

 

 

One long flash and No 5 blink long rest normal = Shift Solenoid "B" fault

 

 

One long flash and No 6 blink long rest normal = Overrun clutch solenoid fault

 

 

One long flash and No 7 blink long rest normal = Lock up solenoid fault

 

 

One long flash and No 8 blink long rest normal = Gearbox fluid temerature sensor circuit fault

 

 

One long flash and No 9 blink long rest normal = Engine revolution sensor circuit fault

 

 

One long flash and No10 blink long restnormal . = Line pressure solenoid circuit fault

 

 

One long flash and 10 equall length blinks...... = All clear

 

 

NOTE

If when attempting this test no A/T check lamp operation a system check of the inhibitor switch,overdrive switch,kickdown switch or idle switch circuit will be required.

 

Promlem is as he states, can only get 300 meters before he loses drive, so he cant do the warm up procedure, unless of course he idles it to temp.

 

:nana2:

Assuming you have plenty of fluid in the gearbox it will be the common problem caused by debris in the fluid has blocked the strainer in the gearbox.

 

This causes loss of line pressure as the fluid cannot pass through, when the engine is switched off for a while the fluid that is above the strainer drains back into the gearbox sump and tempory flushes the strainer, and hence when restarted the drive is back for a few moments until the strainer gets blocked again.

 

Next option is to drain the gearbox and remove the sump, then remove the strainer and clean out, clean as much debris out of the gearbox you can and refit the strainer and sump, fill up again and test.Some times you will be ok for months or years after this sometimes a day but hey may as well try it, if all seems ok after 100 miles or so do the flush thing again just to get any more debris out.

 

There are two kinds debris depending on which one it is will determine the outcome.

 

1) Fibre

This is cleanable and may not return, often normal clutch or band shedding, often caused by lack of fluid changes

 

2)Metal

This is a no, no any decent amount of metal debris means the box has already started to self destruct, no amount of flushing will cure this.

 

Hopefully you have a chance to save it.

 

Jeff TT

is there a guide to doing this, think i know what im doing would just prefer to read it first lol im going to maybe do this tomorrow. also what oil do i get to refill it is there a certain kind or just any gearbox oil cheers

ignore me i stopped being lazy and looked for myself found it lol

I'd go with Jeff TT's advise similar to what i was thinking but explained in perfect detail !! :bow:

 

Good Luck:)

Agreed, great post by JeffTT.

 

I had exactly the same symptons years ago on a Rover SD1, come to a halt, wait 5 minutes and off I go again. So changed the fluid and cleaned the strainer and all was well after. But only for about 6 months, it died after that - I'll always remember having to drive home in the only gear I could get - which unfortunately was reverse!

hahahaha

Agreed, great post by JeffTT.

 

I had exactly the same symptons years ago on a Rover SD1, come to a halt, wait 5 minutes and off I go again. So changed the fluid and cleaned the strainer and all was well after. But only for about 6 months, it died after that - I'll always remember having to drive home in the only gear I could get - which unfortunately was reverse!

 

LMAO, i hope you are kidding bud, that hilarious :eek:

I'll always remember having to drive home in the only gear I could get - which unfortunately was reverse!

 

:shock:Sounds scary hope home wasn't to far;)

Thanks very much for the great advice guys!