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horn, amb, weird turny switch??

right, my horn has been playing up since i got the car, it was quiet then loud then it failed then it was back on but quiet agen now itts faild agen so i baut a new un from halfrauds and it wouldnt work, iv got 12 v a at the cable and chassis when the hown is pushed and the horntakes current so i waggled it thinking there was a bad earth and it worked perfectly for 2 or 3 pushes so i shut the bonnet packed up and buggered off then i tested it at the end of the road and it just made a little squeek and then faild agen.........wtf??? still got 12v at the chassis and wire and the horn still passes current so what could it be??

 

at the same time i found a weird switch thing wich looked aftermarket well it looks more like a turny volume controle on an old amp with the big button removed.....anyway i turned it by 4 mm and drove it.....it drove like a bag of shite felt weird so i turned it back just wondering what its likely to be?

 

its the thing next to the 'bit of blue'

 

n514801670_1611382_7970.jpg

 

now after fkin about with this thing all day my amb temp thing now reads in the 100's and flikkers between 130 counting up quickly to 199 and back down agen and it seems to bare some relevence to the rpm? wtf is that all about?

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  • Author

need the horn help asap as im outside in the cold with the laptop writing this! lol! iv just bypassed the green wire that goes to the horn strait to the wheel horn button and low and behold it beebed at me!! so i think somehow i need to do a permanant bypass where does the green wire come out in the cabin or in the engine bay? and also iv had the horn held down and tested the current and it says the horn unit itself is reading 12v? how come it isnt workin if its receiving 12v? but then when i bypasses it its receiving the same 12v? i then bypassed the earth strait to the battary and it did nothing still so its not the earth......... bypassing the green wire.....but how without pulling the whole thing appart?

 

been reading alot of posts about failed horns and all sorts of other gubbins with em

The switch you mention is most likely a tuning mod similar to the one in the link below

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-300ZX-Fairlady-3-0L-ECU-Piggyback-Remap-Tuning_W0QQitemZ330293406956QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item330293406956&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1301%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

 

They connect into the afm and fool the ecu to run more fuel, in theory you can advance the timing or /and run more boost so thats how they claim enhanced performance. If you follow the cables and they are connected to the afm get it removed asap by someone who knows what they are doing, have the engine checked for boost mods also, these devices are NOT safe.

 

 

The horn relay coil has a perm 12v with the earth side of the coil been switched via the horn push in the relay box on the passenger side under the bonnet, it is marked up as such, also there is a fuse for the horn there too, check all connections, because you have 12v you could still have a poor connection which deteriates when you operate the horn.

 

The ambient air temp sensor is located where you have been working, a small black box normally held onto the bumper with a single 8mm bolt, however it may be clipped elsewhere just check to see if you have disturbed the cable/ connection .

 

Jeff TT

Edited by JeffTT
bad link

  • Author

can hear the relay clicking but still no horn? checked all contacts everything is clean really confused ???

Little screw driver down the one side to release the clip, also when it is out you can prise the lid off, then plug it back in and operate the relay by hand to see if the horn works then.

 

Jeff TT

Ok you posted as I did, still check the relay even if it is clicking as it could have bad contacts.

 

Jeff TT

The relay has a perm 12v supply on the coil, when you push the horn button an earth is sent to the relay coil to pull it in, then 12v is then switched to the horns which have a perm earth and if good they should operate.

 

Jeff TT

Edited by JeffTT
spelling

My bet would be the earth wiring to the horns from the fuse box.

 

I had a similar problem with mine and ended up rewiring it from the Pin of the relay to each of the horns.

My bet would be the earth wiring to the horns from the fuse box.

 

I had a similar problem with mine and ended up rewiring it from the Pin of the relay to each of the horns.

 

 

Yes very likely, does sound like a wiring issue, have seen plenty of times the cable from the horn button to the relay but as the relay is clicking if it is a wiring prob it will be the cable legrath said

 

Jeff TT

Edited by JeffTT
Spelling

  • Author

theres only one horn on mine? are we all supposed to have 2?...... oh look!!! theres a wire for one on the other side..........k just linked both green wires to the one horn + - still no still getting 12v's tho accross the horn when pressed.........how about i run a cable from the relay to the horn in place of the green wire? mains cable do it? fekin cold....iv got a brew now

Did you take the top off the relay and reinsert it and then manual operate the relay and observe the contacts actually touching?

Edited by JeffTT

  • Author

right im too cold now and the xfacter final is on..... i need to have a good look at the relay, if im going to run a wire off it i need to know specifically which pin? and that turny switch thing was actually turned right up, iv turned it off and the car sounds normal for the first time and doesnt try to stall itself anymore!! lol! the amb numbers still go up and down with the rpm....quite off putting really!! lol!

 

anyway any help with the relay pins preferably a pic!

  • Author

contacts are definatly touching quite noisy when theres no horn lol!!!

  • Author

(i took the relay off and the lid off to then put the relay back on and switched it with lid off)

Have a relay in my garage, so will photo it and show the connections you need to know, will post it in the morning.

 

Jeff TT

  • Author

right im too cold now and the xfacter final is on..... i need to have a good look at the relay, if im going to run a wire off it i need to know specifically which pin? and that turny switch thing was actually turned right up, iv turned it off and the car sounds normal for the first time and doesnt try to stall itself anymore!! lol! the amb numbers still go up and down with the rpm....quite off putting really!! lol!

 

anyway any help with the relay pins preferably a pic!

Here you are all the info you need.

 

PICTURE EDITED

 

Jeff TT

Edited by JeffTT

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