Amardeep

He was a lovely man, RIP Mike.

I was looking for the old Model Variations page (http://www.300zx.org.uk/model_variations.htm), but the link isn't working. Is there a replacement page on this site that I don't know about?

Hi all, Looking to buy a jack for my SWB. Mine collapsed a few years ago and haven't been able to find one since. If anyone has a spare, please let me know how much you'd like for it. Cheers, Amar

Does anyone have a spare one of these by any chance?

Hi all, Apologies if someone has already explained this on this forum but I couldn't find any specific help... Basically my fuel pump is knackered and I've bought an Aeromotive Stealth 11142 340lph one to replace it. When it came to replacing it, however, I noticed that it is physically much smaller than the OEM one and the OEM one also has a damper on the top, so I have some questions for anyone who has installed one on their car: 1) Is it okay to bypass the damper and plug the Aeromotive straight in where the OEM comes off? 2) If I bypass the damper, the Aeromotive will be sitting higher in the tank than the OEM was - has this been an issue for you in your car when you're low on fuel? 3) The Aeromotive is much smaller in diameter even with the foam sleeve that came with it - what did you do to prevent it from rattling around? 4) Do you have any other advice on how to fit this pump - any pics of when you did it? Cheers!!

Now that the forum is using vBulletin Version 4.1.10, is there any chance of Tapatalk being implemented?

Hehe you could stick it in a Nissan Figaro!

Can't miss this... Type II deposit paid!

What a dick I am... the headlights have to be on for the kerb lights to work, everything works fine!

Hehe thats cool mate. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone, I feel a bit stupid now because I realised the crimp connectors linking the resistors to the bulbs didn't properly pierce the rubber sheath around the wires going to the bulb! Anyway the indicators are now flashing at the correct rate! I still have the problem with the kerb lights though... they've just stopped working. I know I don't need to put load resistors in as I've tried putting the old bulbs in (which draw the normal wattage) and they still don't come on. I'll consider turning them into additional side lights but I thought they were quite cool as kerb lights as not a lot of cars in the UK have them! Thanks again though guys!

Hi everyone, as the title suggests I have a little problem with my indicators and kerb lights. Any help is very much appreciated! I have a Series 2 Jap import with fogs and sidelights at the front, and indicators and kerb lights on the corners. I have fitted a 6500K HID kit and have been upgrading the rest of my bulbs in order to update the look of the car. I've gone for LED sidelights and side repeaters, and Xenon bulbs for the main beam and fog lights. I've also decided remove the orange balloon thing (couldn't think of the word) and fit LED bulbs in my indicators and kerb lights,. and this is where the problem is... The indicators flash too fast, which would usually be expected with LED bulbs, however I have fitted the load resistors that came with the LED indicator, bulbs so why are they still flashing fast?! I have connected the resistors in parallel across the wires that go to each indicator bulb, as indicated in the diagram that came with my LED bulbs. I also noticed that my kerb lights no longer light up. They used to turn on when indicating but they don't light up any more... I've checked the "Clear Lens Illumination" fuse (I thought that might have something to do with it) but the fuse seems fine. I'm totally confused as to how I can fix the lights. If anyone has any ideas I'd be really grateful!

I drove from Gloucester to London in my SWB with about 1/4 of the bumper sticking out of my passenger side roof (targa panel removed). It was flapping around when going over 50mph so I had to wedge it in place with the seat.

I saw Duckgooseken in Waitrose a few years ago - its a chicken in a duck in a goose, or something like that. I've heard of five and seven bird combos too!

There was one on Top Gear last week too, when Clarkson was racing the bullet train in the new GTR! He overtook a white Z with a 99-spec bumper. You only see it for a second tho.

I saw u tooo!

Hi mate, I've seen your car on this forum and I recognised it on Kingsbury Road on Saturday... You wouldn't have noticed though, I wasn't in my 300ZX. Love the tailgate tub! Amar

Rather than having the bass turned down low on your front and rear speakers, you might be able to turn it off below a certain frequency altogether. You said you have an Alpine headunit, it is likely that it has High Pass Filter (HPF) and Low Pass Filter (LPF). You can set the HPF and LPF so that only bass goes to your sub and so no bass goes to your other speakers. You may be albe to to set it so that there is a small frequency range that goes to both the sub and the other speakers so you don't lose any frequencies. As for the enclosure, I'd say ported/vented for loud bass, or sealed for decent punchy bass if youre after sound quality.

Exactly what I thought - shipping is very pricey and I'm sure there are decent car audio installers here in the UK that can make something similar.

Hi Mike, I asked him about shipping to the UK once, this is what he said: -------------------------------- Hi Amar, I can send it through UPS but the cost is $357 per box shipping which is just stupid. The post office won't ship those size packages internationally. So the only other option I can think of is to send it to you unassembled, in a kit form. If you have access to tools you can put it together. All you need is some glue, liquid nails, screw driver and sandpaper. If I do this you will still be paying about $350 for shipping but that way it will all come in one box instead of three. The vinyl covers you will need a staple gun to install. Let me know. Thanks, Chris. --------------------------------

Took my Z to MJP in Brentwood to have my driver's side window electrics fixed, and also have the car checked over and serviced. He sorted it all out in one night like he said he would, all at a price that I found more than reasonable... and what a top bloke he was too! I recommend him to anyone, especially if you're looking for a Zed specialist in the London area. Thanks alot Mike!

Could have been me too, I'm in Woodside Park and my mate lives on Oakley Road North/South (not sure which bit it comes under) so I'm parked there sometimes! Was it silver with white wheels (these are gonna be changed soon)?

Hey guys, thanks for your replies! Turns out the loom didn't have a earth wire, and the old headunit must have been earthed using the additional wire. I spliced the earth wire into the black wire on the Nissan-to-ISO adapter and everything is now fine! :D

Hi guys, got myself a new Sony headunit. I have the ISO adapter and I understand I need to get myself a diversity aerial adapter, but I have 2 problems: 1) I have wired it in continuous power supply mode (so I dont need the key to turn the headunit on) but now the aerial always stays up 2) When I removed the orginal headunit there was a black wire attached to the bottom of the headunit, this was the ground cable as the other end is attached to the chassis. My Sony headunit doesnt have anywhere to attach this wire but it does have the rubber knob at the back. When I was putting the headunit and cage back into the dash there were sparks when I put the top screws in so I went no further. This seems like a grounding issue, should I connect the ground wire to the rubber knob? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks, Amar.

Got mine too! Thanks!