Twin Turbo

With the engine OFF & the ignition ON & the throttle closed (at idle position) you should see TPS voltage of 0.40V to 0.50V with the usual setting of 0.45V being the average setting. At full throttle opening, the voltage should be 4.0V.

Don't know why you're expecting to see "1"? When the throttle is closed it is in the idle position. What is the voltage you should set the TPS to at idle?

His research is 100% correct. The R32 GT-R V Spec was factory fitted with Brembo brakes front & rear. These are the perfect fitment for a Z32.

Adam D is correct. The unidentified object has been used in an attempt to keep the defect from worsening. That's a typical defect seen in many early model Z32's. I think it's a case of having to remove it to have any chance of a successful repair. It may be easier to replace it with a used one from a later series that's in better condition.

From the HKS website: http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product/oil/oilfilter/index.html However, to maintain optimum low pressure loss properties, it is recommended to change the filter every 3000km when an oil change is performed.

The only way you will ever know what the oil pressure really is, is to remove the oil pressure sender & install an accurate gauge. The oil pressure will be higher when the engine is cold compared to normal operating temperature. The oil pressure specifications in the Nissan Service Manual state: With the engine at operating temperature, under no load & at idle, the pressure should be more than 11psi. At 3000rpm it should be between 51 & 65psi.

That hose you have pictured appears to be an original Nissan item, so it's probably as old as your vehicle. Chances are, every "difficult to get to hose" will be the same age & in a similar condition. You could save yourself future dramas & headaches by changing ALL the coolant system hoses rather than just replacing this one.

People seem to be preoccupied with checking voltage as a means of diagnosing electrical issues. The voltage appearing on the multimeters for all intents & purposes may indicate all is OK, in reality it may not be correct. Why? Because the correct method of checking voltages for diagnostic purposes is to measure voltage drop through the circuit. Voltage drop can only be measured when the circuit being tested is under load. Measuring the resistance in ohms of a fuel injector or ignition coil will only indicate the integrity of the wiring in the coil. The resistance values will vary in accordance with the temperature of the item under test. It will not provide any indication of the serviceability of the injector in relation to cleanliness, flow rate or spray pattern, the only way to test these important aspects of a fuel injector are to remove it, have it cleaned & tested on a machine. Also fuel injectors can be 'lazy' or slow in operation, ohms testing won't identify this problem, measuring amperage with a low current probe & a meter capable of graphing the readings will assist in identifying this type of fault. The same deal with coil packs, once again the coil integrity is tested with the multimeter using ohms, the output of the coil can be compromised by poor connections to the spark plug, leading to carbon tracking to ground. If this occurs the spark plug won't fire, or if it does it will certainly only operate intermittently. Spark plug type, heat range & gap can also have an affect on engine performance. The first thing to be checked in my book is engine compression, if engine compression is down, performance will be down & fuel usage will be up. Also, if there is a dud cylinder, no amount of testing & changing out components is going to fix it. Changing out parts as a means of diagnosing faults is a very poor method of rectifying problems & will turn out to be expensive in the long run. If fuel pressure is a concern, then testing the pressure is mandatory. Fuel pumps wear out eventually, that's a fact of life. Fuel pump condition can be diagnosed using a low current probe & graphing capable multimeter by checking the current across the commutator segments.

A fully charged battery will read around 12.7VDC open circuit. An alternator at idle generally indicates around 14.2VDC. The other thing to check is AC ripple voltage. Here's a link:

A fully charged battery will read around 12.7VDC open circuit. An alternator at idle generally indicates around 14.2VDC. The other thing to check is AC ripple voltage. Here's a link:

My response is based on what I have seen in other Z32's & they never looked right.

Other members have covered the removal process, so my comment is in relation to recovering the dash in leather. Forget about it! You would be much better off finding a dash in good condition & changing them over. When you're looking for a replacement don't just look for imperfections in the visible surface area, also look for broken & cracked mounts.

Wiring & connection problems account for at least 90% of drivability issues.

A pity you didn't have a GoPro, it would've been pretty funny to watch on YouTube! Seriously, you were very lucky, glad you're OK & lived to tell the tale.

Going on the crap on the injector & the mounting plate, that injector has never been removed. Or if it has, it was a long time ago, also the Phillips head screws look like they've never been undone. Maybe it's time to consider having the injectors serviced? I hope the wire in the black terminal housing isn't indicative of the wiring on your vehicle. Look carefully at the image, is that bare wire at the end of the insulation? At a guess I'd say that's the fuel temperature sensor wire.