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moteor

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by moteor

  1. GOOD GOD! How'd i miss that! ha ha no wonder I have taken so long with my Z work! Thank you!
  2. Hello! Please would you be able to send me the details for the throttle bodies from the USA? I would very much a precise it and be forever grateful! Unfortunately I'm not priveliged enough to send PM's but I can receive them . . . Thanks so much :cool3:
  3. Oh and I was thinking about having a custom wide intake plenum built? but was worried about flow to the cylinders being even?
  4. PS Upgraded fuel rail.
  5. https://ibb.co/ebr5pk https://ibb.co/dMBS25 https://ibb.co/hEDwvQ https://ibb.co/mNu3aQ Body work above, valve clearance below: https://ibb.co/k9XyaQ
  6. yeah i did thank you, that was some technical info there! Decided against new ground oversize valves, going to take them to a shop to be machined and get the heads skimmed. I was thinking an adjustment to the cams would be a better option, however i did take some material away that was shrouding the 4 valves in the centre of the piston, where the main bolt includes over the area where the flow passes into/out of the valve seats. I put 20 hrs into polishing the headers and the joining mid section. You can now see your face in them. Going to take the plenum to get polished inside and out. Getting it chromed too. lots of work going to the enginr rebuild. new, treated pistons, con rods, timing belt, treated valves, harder springs along with machined cams (for higher lift), gaskets, hx40/35s (not sure yet) intercoolers, ducting, port and polish, 555 injectors, intercoolers, boost controler, and remap courtesy of Horsham Dev, 3" custom exhaust straight through, powerflow tips, custom test pipes, and downpipes, UD pulleys, auto clutch,flywheel skim and reduce, Dual intake and rad and oil cooler. Replacing the main and rod bearings and having the crank checked for balance, ARP main and head bolts, main coolant gallery clearin, timing replacement, and AC and EGR delete. Its a lot of work but worth it, ive easily put the cost of the car back into it and with all that being done, itll be defo worth it. with all things being said, whet do you reckon the rwbhp will be? Im looking for 450 but i figure it could be considerably more. Also is there anything to safeguard the engine i have missed? Obviously im not running stock brakes and suspension, thinking about the 350z upgrade and new bushes all round, BTW its a TT conversion, so no Hicas, better driveshaft, and diff ratio! :) Thanks for the reply Sthphen you seem yto know a lot of things about the Z, where abouts are you based? Tom
  7. OK gonna go it as I got a couple of spare heads. I'll let you know how the dremmel gets on.
  8. Looked into it and it seems bigger isn't better. Looking at deshrouding the valve seats now, is that something we cand do on the VG?
  9. Yeah it's all being done at once. I'm currently polishing up the intakes on the headers and removing the valves, then it's going to a shop to be ported. Didn't know you could port the intakes on the heads though. How do they manoeuvre the porting tool through the curved shape of the header intakes? Many thanks
  10. Hello there! I was looking to bore and to lace the valve's on the header cams, wondered or a doner could be found from another model or if there is anyone who sells such a kit in the UK? Many thanks!! - - - Updated - - - bore and to REPlace the valve's (sorry!) - - - Updated - - - Maybe I should say bore out a furather 2 mm and replace the valves to fit.
  11. Ah I see so I'm glad it's not a quality thing then. Thanks for all the info everybody, Andrew G, Stephen and Alic for finally answering the body kit question!! Thanks guys very useful information on this forum, does it cater for Stageas and GTRs too? As that would be useful. I'll have to search .. . Thanks!!! :thumbup:
  12. As above with the body kit's?
  13. https://ibb.co/m0W95Q Engine bay - - - Updated - - - What's with the body kits from the zcentre?
  14. https://ibb.co/jsC5ek And another
  15. https://ibb.co/hWsSs5 Pics above
  16. Thanks mate, i knew the oil trees and pistons were different i thought the length of the con rod provided the higher compression, i just thought the tt pistons were slotted for oil flow and shaped diffetently. Was going to take the tt pistons off the tt engine anyway. I bought the NA with the longterm goal of having the better diff, no hicas, and stronger prop shaft, and was looking to build the tt engine whilst the NA was still running, but took the engine out to respray the car and engine bay. Looks better but hey how the car was still off the road for 6 months. Got all new trims tho so it should be looking slick! Any idea on a price for a chip and tune? And also what's with the ZCentre body kits?
  17. Thanks for the info, it'll be the oil chanel as well then. So what about ZCentre body kits? Peeps ain't zworld fan boys?
  18. Sound advice thank you. I was thinking to go to hdev but maybe I will check protune out. Any ideas on a price for a chip tune ? Uh oh what have I done wrong? They're not shitly made are they? No past comparison experience unfortunately. Was a b×××c to fit tho. So back to the original question of there being more compression, I was under the ASSumption the con rods wereally longer and thats the compression difference. Now I feel like a plumb. Obviously then the NA pistons can't be used. OH and Steven, yes I did, you could say that. How much did they sell the NA for? Hope it wasn't over 400? But rest easy my friend I have had the last laugh. I have bought from them a vg30dett that looked rusty and dirty, was on a pallet at the back of the warehouse, in pieces. Persuading them it was junk, and to be sold for 280 quid minus the turbos. However I saw something they didn't. . . . Brand New pistons, con rods and con rod bearings, and a new timing kit - pulleys, and tensioner and oem belt!! Haha 280!! Looks like they are on something down there!! Hope that cheered you up.
  19. I am going to have to get some advice based on numbers or experience for this one. . . I have finished reshelling the body thanks to a great, wicked mean looking body kit from the zcentre in the UK, and after about 6 months graft it has finally been painted. Just doors etc to do now. As that has come together nicely I managed to pick up a used engine from the guys at Nippon Auto spares in Derby to do the whole TT conversion thing. I know there are huge writers on this so I'm not going to bore you with the details suffice to say Holsett hx35's :) Looking for something to beat a mates car running 395 PS / 390 bhp / 291 kW @ 6100 rpm with a curb weight of 1735 kg. By my calculations that car will need to loose some weight if it wants to keep up with the Z! Anyway I digress. I am thinking about compression ratio's and boost, by running the con rods from a NA engine in the TT that's being built. This means the compression ratio on the TT will up from 8.5 :1 to 10.5 :1 This would mean it would need a tune that suited the higher compression and would run less boost but considering today's anti knock tech in premium fuels, do you think the detonation would be OK? And would the engine survive? XD Oh and obviously how much more power lol
  20. Yes that makes sense. I think there may be a loose bearing in there somewhere . . . :) Thanks for the help, I am gonna try install it on the other instalation of windows, but dont really want to do this with the copy I have. So I downloaded the software I have from the conzult web page, and I am sure I havent got any viruses, I am always careful online and use avast and malware bytes, and super anti spyware, so no worries there. I have scanned the computer too. With regards to the missing driver, do you have to have the cable plugged into the PC and the 300zx for the software to launch? Otherwise if not its a missing file or some such. Just wondered - has anyone got a working copy they can email me to moteor84@yahoo.co.uk? I dont use this eamail but for posting and spam.
  21. Thanks - first post of hopefully not too many asking, and hopefully some with advice if I can help I will !! :) I have a problem . . . I have been reading posts all over 300zx.co.uk and I am trying to get the consult freeware version to work, but have problems running on the machine I am using? I am not sure how you guys have the software set up because I am trying to run it on win xp installed on a partition on a machine running 2 installs of win 7 XD lol. I am trying to get the software to work, and as I am guessing looking at the error log it missing the file KERNELBASE.dll which I assume is a windows NT file? As it’s a Error Code 2 problem in windows this means the file is missing, right? So like any good computer geek and car lover, I am remembering that NT was built on a kernel GUI system and supported 300 apps or something like that! So having no experience of NT (win 98 was the earliest and XP was like wow so cool! :D ) I have installed xp on a separate partition, unfortunately it works great, but overrides the boot.ini file to the drive location. Win 7’s (times 2) are on C: and the xp install is on B: bu the problem being you cant choose the OS it always boots XP. So I tried to run in XP too but it doesn’t work. I even tried on the GF laptop, in xp, but still no joy! After booting spotmau to clean the installed partition B to get my OS win 7 back, it’s a live cd utility for partition management and data recovery, I needed the recovery disk for win 7 to get the boot.ini back to C: So I take it I need windows NT – but I have a couple of questions like what does NT run on and will it run on my machine – Windows 7 or XP >> General Information Type : Intel Pentium Internal Specification : Pentium® Dual-Core CPU T4300 @ 2.10GHz Model Number : T4300 120gb SSD 1020gb HD Any how enough with the tech! More about the CARS! I have been doing some tinkering over the time I have been driving the car. I have the need to adjust the fuel air ratio for my car as its not right. It seems to run great on low revs up to 2500 or even 2400 which to me suggests a problem with the crank angle sensor. I have changed and moved the TPU to the front bumper, and changed the coil packs for proved working ones. I have changed the air filter to a racing filter and the exhaust to a through flow 3.5 inch pipes. So I am left wondering if this has affected the air fuel ratio and thought I might check it out on consult and see if theres any other stuff wrong with the car :) and hopefully diagnose the crank angle sensor if faulty. I am probably gonna have to order the software ( I have the cable already) but problem being if I cant get it to work I cant buy it! Ha ha . . . Hope you can help me on whats wrong with the software and maybe have a suggestion for the car too? I hope? Thankyou!! Tom PS sorry if the IT talk puts some of you guys off . . . thought it was necessary :(
  22. I always thought sand blasting for removing paint from metal? you can wear the corners easily tho! next thing it ll come back anodised in a chrome plate! :)
  23. Sorry if this sounds stupid bu cant you contact the installers and ask them? Failing that I am guessing the wiring goes from the centre console to tbehind the glove box, and either through the wiring looms to the engine bay, or maybe even the passenger door? Failing that would a test voltage of 12 v through the wiring and a temp switch for you MOT? http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=el&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=52&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=133

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