Hub280ZX

Félicitations Monsieur SlickPete for the Bonnet finish! Very nice! The two big bhp units in France are crying not to come to UK for such sessions... I was putting the priority on Spa Classic for the three last years, and I will just have a tourist visit on Sunday the 24th this year with no track! I have bad arrangements for the job having too much to deal with... I hope the part retirement from next year on (supposely!) will leave more time to enjoy, and I really would like to come and visit your Japfest... and meet some of you guys! Maybe next year? Have a nice time, and bring back pictures and videos on here!

From my experience, you get a driving with two effects: On a straight line with unleveled road, the weak side is going lower faster than the other, and you get that strange wooble that makes impossible to keep the straight line with the front and the back... On a bend, the weak side is sliding much easyer than the strong side...specially on wet road... A MOT test will show the dynamic behaviour of the schocks. This is generally enough to advise you about a problem if you drive (or cruize) at low speeds on good roads. If you have fun on a track, you will just be kicked out without knowing why...and having a very small chance to have the right correction before the bad occurs! The schocks are the main compnents trying to keep the tire on the road with enough pressure to have enough adhesion. With unbalanced ones, you quickly come to the same effect as having two different tire widths on the front or on the back... Try it once, but alone on an empty road!! NB: Sorry for this poor frenchie English!

I suppose one is resisting a downwards push, and the other is just like a bicycle inflator not connected to the tire? :laugh:

Au revoir Mandy. My thoughts go to your family and relatives:sad:

News???

Happy, healthy and prosperous year 2015 to this fantastic club/forum and all members!

Thanks Jerrick I wait for the confirmation of elivery price and how to place an order

Can you sell one in France? Any idea about the delivery cost? Please explain how to order from here: It looks I got stuck when I tried a month ago...

Old school Ford? Yessssssssss! Not a Ford Capri.... but a CC Racing Francorchamps Capri! :clap: Actual serial number FC003 for a series of 6 ever made. Essex 3.1L V6 engine prepared by Neil Brown who made the engine of the 1978 24 hours of Spa win. The car was reconditionned in 1999... and publications are from Classic Ford issue January 2003. This car is the actual one in my garage, and was on Spa Classic 2012. :cool3:

Bon anniversaire, Monsieur Mike! :happybday:

Andrew, you were faster than me on the question, but this is a nice road to jump the bumps! It must be opposite to the sea in the country where reading and pronouncing the town names is just worst than trying to get a word from Hungarian! :headvswal

It's good to keep some flexibility for engine power improvements! :thumbup1: So the switch type is not so easy for street drive: This is similar to the HKS I suppose... Have you any comparison to make with the Competition Clutch from Tomfromthenorth?

Thanks Jaffa---> MP regarding the OS twin plate... Gary, thanks for the link: I will definitely have a chat with Andy at CC clutches. This will join the experience from Tomfromthenorth with the 6 puck version on springs. RPS Carbon-Carbon is the leader considering my other red Z32 experience and Jaffa confirmation. I want a reliable solution keeping in mind the power and the track use (even if occasional). Another personal consideration is the smooth pedal action...as years of driving have killed my back and left leg! Getting old improves experience but has other negative sides... Any other experience from big power Zmen? :detective: :cool3:

I would like to start at subject on BIG POWER clutches, as it looks like some have been dissapointed with "slipping" situations on new assemblies... Tomfromthenorth example recently is the risk I could face, and if ordering a clutch for self assembly, the involvement in return and exchange could be a difficult one! My experience on Z32 "boosted power type" is first from the red 300ZX TT from Gary (RIP) that I brought back to France. The engine was fully modified and Dyno runs were showing 505 Bhp at wheels. I never had any problem with clutch sliding, so I looked at the invoices to find the type installed. The model is a RPS Carbon-Carbon twin disk model, fully appropriate... but expensive! The second one is the white caged Z32 from Rob/Boomin33 that I brought back to France end of last year. The engine is even more modified for a realistic target aiming 600 Bhp+, and Dynoed at 545 Bhp at the wheels as is. The car was having some issues that have been solved before the Spa Classic week-end mid May. Spark plugs changed to get a good 6 cylinders work, Connections to injectors and coils checked, and the engine was fine. Adjustment on the Motec management to avoid big black cloud on boost and overall -3% injection time still keeping good and safe AFR values. Brake pads changed on the front (AP Racing calipers) and on the back (Nissan original ones) And finally a change of tires to get the power transfer instead of immediate slides from the back when the power was coming. The tires were old, cracked and dried... so there wer slipping instantly. The RS-R Federal ones are now really changing the situation for the best! Now, because of this better power transfer, instead of the tires sliding, I am now with a clutch sliding situation! I then looked at the history of parts assembled, and I could find successive changes that show that the matter was an issue since the engine mods... 1999: DF Clutch installed by Torque developpments Intnl 2000: Quote for HKS clutch/Flywheel 2P/Push 2604-RN026 (twin plate) 2002: RPS Clutch kit installed by SE Nissan Ltd 2004: Installation by Torque development of HKS 2P/Push Clutch Package quoted above 2007: Change of Clutch for RPS type + Flywheel by STech UK Ltd The HKS twin plate was the right one for the power, but it was really not streetable according to Rob who took the decision to change it. This shows that the two right choices to avoid slipping under high torque are twin plates Clutches. I can confirm that the RPS Carbon-Carbon is just like a standard clutch in terms of pedal action, and it is totally usable on the street. The HKS is NOT the same smooth action and use from the comments and decision to change it... Questions: 1. RPS Carbon-Carbon twin disk is the easyest solution... but prices are on the VERY high side! Is it justified? 2. Is there any single disk clutch offering similar safety for slippage when we talk about 550 Bhp and torque figures up to 600 foot pounds of torque? 3. I have been oriented to the SZ 5 Puck Clutch shown there: http://www.importpartspro.com/rpsni30ttmax1.html It looks like it is capable of standing the power and torque, but is it really streetable? I have been told also that puck types are more brutal... 4. RPS is not the only one to propose twin disk clutches. I have seen Competition Clutches, Exedy, etc... Any opinion on comparisons and experience? Thanks for you feedback as the choice is wide!

I have absolutely no leaks underneath.... That's the problem! I have no one greasy spots at the back. Just black "powder" out from exhaust and sticking when wet. When it dryes, I can blow it with air breeze... The AFR extra gauge with reading inside the car is on the right exhaust tube (under the driver). It looks like the most of the black cloud is coming from the left exhaust (passenger side). The push on boost is so hard, that I must admit that my eyes stay on the road instead of looking at values at this moment. Values are down to 11 on the boost. When driving at 2500/3000 rpm without boost, the AFR reading on the right exhaust is staying very close to 12.4/12.7 assuming it is correct? I should be able to record the parameters on the MOTEC. I did not yet found how to activate the recording as it does not work... The same applies when the computer is connected and reading continuously: I can see the lambda's on the engine widely decreasing on the graph, but I cannot drive, get the boost, and look at the screen!! However it looks like the rich occurs immediately on boost, but decreases rapidly, even maintining the boost. On evidence, the accel addition is much too big, but I have to find if it comes from accel enrichment, or boost pressure value change. Now, if it is that rich, could this eat the oil by washing the cylinders? I have another question: The car looks low on front weels and high on back wheels. Tires are correct, so it should come from springs. When I check the oil level, I am doing it on a flat place. Due to the front being lower is this changing the level on the level gauge? To check this, I made a comparison at half the position between low and high levels on the flat floor, and then lifting the front by 3/4" on wood. It looks like the gauge is then much closer or touching the High mark... This means that I could well be overfilling on the floor at H mark, and then this could accelerate an oil loss having the overfill getting... burnt? Is there a way to measure the right horizontal position of the car? Could one inch inclination change the oil level from half to full on the gauge? Sorry for those questions, but I am still on the learning curve!

I wanted to have a test drive with the white caged 300ZXTT before the Spa classic meeting next week, so I drove some 780 miles during this last long week end in France (8/9/10/11 of May)... We organized a Datsun-Nissan meet in Sancerre with 10-12 cars (depending on days and avaliability) including 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, Silvia, 280ZX Turbo, Z31 and Z32. I drove 200 miles from Reims to Sancerre: Nice drive, under dry weather conditions... and speed limits! Very enjoyable, with new tires, new brake pads, and all the checks done since a few weeks! We stayed in a camping site along the Loire, and visited around driving 370 miles over the two days Fri/Sat: Nice small roads, some dry and some wet. The car was perfect in any condition, adapting the boost to the conditions. I then drove the 200 miles back to Reims on Sunday, with flods of rain, but still very enjoyable in the cobra seat! The only problem comes from the oil level to be readjusted to keep it at the max level, using Opie oil 10W50, and the level compensation used about 2 liters for the 780 Miles total: That is quite high... I have big black cloud at the back when pushing hard, and only a tiny blue mist for about 2 to 3 seconds from the passenger side when stopping the push. It looks like very rich on boost. I drove back on wet, nearly using no boost, but I could not really see at the back with the new Federal RS-R tires lifting so much of the road water. However, checking on arrival, the oil level was higher than the first 200 miles on dry. I am sure that the Motec mapping is very rich (probably to keep it on the safe side!) Now, maybe some piston rings are stuck as the car was not used more than five times over the last 5 years? All other parameters are fine, like temperature never moving more than half the gauge on the dash. The oil pressure was gradually going down from 60+psi to 45 psi during the 200 miles drive, but reading the comments on sensors, can this be considered, or is it coming from the heat? I can see the AFR values very rich on both lambda when the computer is connected and the boost is active. This is mainly on acceleration, as it comes to normal even maintaining the boost (like the black cloud only on initial push) Could this rich situation eat the amount of oil added? I have no oil leaks, and driving on dry, the white paint at the back is spotted with very small black powder (no greasy spots). Anyway, I enjoyed the drive very much, as the car is drivable on poor conditions, and very energetic on boost! Some pictures to show the good time that we had!

The matter regarding battery getting flat when parked is not yet solved, but I suspect the wiring of the Motec ecu to be incorrect. I cannot activate data log as the Motec ecu is not detecting the engine stop...Something is wrong there... On the other hand, I have cleaned the broken connector on the temperature sensor used by the Motec management. It was coming loose, and connecting the PC to the Motec Ecu, I had a fault on the water sensor. I have fixed it so stay in place. No error: Solved! I suspect this to be linked to the bad starting and idling before I changed the fouled sparks: The water temperature sensor is a must for injection correction idling with spark advance loop. I had a run this morning, and the rocket is now coming to the true way it should push! :-)!

That's an optimistic view! What was true 20 years ago has somehow changed with generations... But this is not an indication on what the alarm is eating... locked or not by the way... I cannot lock with keys, as the locks on doors are supressed!

Just to point out the "done list": New tires Federal RS-R fitted front and rear Brake pads front on AP Racing calipers changed (needed to find the appropriate ones for the 28 mm thick disc as caliper is different with 33 mm disk and pads also...) I used Mintex track compound. Brake pads rear changed on rear calipers also (standard Z32 calipers) I changed for TRW fast road ones. Bolts for wheels changed as there was a strange mix, and even one bolt missing. Exhaust silent blocks changed as they were cracked. The cobra SS lines are now tight and safe. Relay installed to have the AFR gauge activated only with engine ON. The gauge was permanent active, and making the battery flat just staying in the garage! Checked the Sigma radio locking system, and ordered spare batteries to be safe with only one command keyless sytem. The locks on doors are supressed... So, now ready for a better test run soon! One more question about the alarm system: It looks like the alarm (Sigma M Series with remote Key control) is eating quite significantly on the battery... Is this normal? I have doors leds blinking all the time, wether it is locked or not. I can see this power eating from my battery small charger, as it stays on "feed" when car is staying in the garage. My fear is to have the battery low too kwickly just parking away from home! Anyone has experience on this? What else could be 'ON" when the car is parked?

Are we stuck there with one missing for the Z32? If this is the case, I'll take one more for a friend size L man The list becomes such to close the deal with 10 units: 1. Draxan - 1x L man + 1x S woman . 2. Hub280ZX - 3 x L man + 2 x XL man. 3. iangreenfield 2 x 3xl man. 4. Hollings 1 x medium manly man!

The issue there is the direct link cable to the starter... When looking at the rigidity of the starter cable, I would think the core copper wire it is bigger that a quarter of an inch square! When you put the battery in the boot, the starter will pull huge amps. We need some serious electrician to confirm this! and avoid the cable to take fire on the first start...

Thanks for confirmation Draxan 1. Draxan - 1x L man + 1x S woman . 2. Hub280ZX - 2 x L man + 2 x XL man.

Draxan, thanks for the proposal! Nice! If you agree to sent 4 (2 x L + 2 x XL) to France, consider my order for 4 x 17 + delivery! Thanks! Only 4 more to make the deal? Cost --> MP

The new Federal RS-R tires are now on the car. This should allow a better test for adherence on boost. I wanted to change the front break pads as they come to a few millimeters left: The calipers are AP Racing CP 5200 with 28 mm disks. The EBC Blue Stuff pads ref DP5002NDX are 18 mm thick and this is too thick considering the 16.75 mm given by AP Racing for the CP3215D50 pads. Even if peeling the black sheet in contact with the pistons, it is too tight to enter in the gap! Anyone has adresses for AP Racing pads supply? I look for CP3215D50 16.75 mm thickness max for track/fast road use. This could be Mintex or Ferrodo equivalent, providing they are 16.75 mm maximum thickness. Thanks for your help!

The red one is 1650 kg = 3,637 lb with 855 kg on the front and 795 kg on the back Very similar ratio weight front/back, and 50 kg more.