johnlegs

its a walbro 255lph? was listed as for the 300zx tt John

i will try the battery for half hour now, because i did disconnect for an hour when taking the pump out and it ran correct for a short time after that.

Cheers smithy, I did a check and the only code was 34, this is the knock sensor but I found a basic problem there with the connector, that been corrected now. - - - Updated - - - Ive bought a walbro fuel pump off the net, is this a basic job to change??

thats the answer i was looking for, thank you I hope this fuel pump is the answer Thanks again John

I finally got my 1990 SWB TT Manual running and mot on Friday, The first drive of approx half a mile went perfect, engine boost well, acceleration as I would expect having owned two others previously. then suddenly the car wont rev very high, if I pull off in first it initially feels good up to 3000rpm then hits a wall, change to second and it only gets to 2500 before same loss of power, maximum speed i can get is 40mph and that's feathering the throttle. As the car has been standing for 4 years and the fuel pump noisy I immediately thought the fuel pump- I took this out of the tank and it didn't seem too blocked so cleaned with brake cleaner and re-installed. Again car started off as it should but 500yds down the road the fault came again. So ive ordered a new fuel pump. I have also looked at the safety boost mode, checked continuity from ecu pin to the Knock sensor wire and this is fine. Total resistance to earth from the ecu pin and through the knock sensor is 560 k ohms, ?? on searching the net i have notice other mentioning 1000 Kohms. (could this be the problem) other people have mentioned in safety boost they still drive normally just loose top end?? I've tried resetting ecu and fault is still present. The other symptom that leads me to the fuel pump is if I rev the car slowly from 800rpm increasing slowly at 5000rpm the engine dies with no more revs, doesn't cut out but acts like no more fuel, Has anyone had a similar fault and am I on the right track Thanks John

I have an alternative option, I have a LWB auto with a perfectly good engine I bought for spares, an engine transplant might be called for. Does and auto engine in a manual car make any difference?? because this problem engine came from an auto too

Ellodave thanks for the offer for Wednesday, im a little pushed myself for Wednesday, any other days in mind?? thanks for the offer... ALso I do have a pressure regulator fitted its the unit with yellow pipes on and I get correct fuel pressure reading on the gauge, if I block the return to tank obviously the pressure goes off the scale and the car tries a lot harder bit obviously it would with the extra fuel being delivered.

no i didn't hear it running before purchase

all the pipes are on the balance bar, possibly not seen on picture

http://s1073.photobucket.com/albums/w386/johnlegs/

looks like adding photos is easier said than done any ideas

I will post some pictures now, I bought the car with a faulty engine and this engine is a replacement from a breakers, the old engine run fine but bottom end knocking

Near Bridgend just off J36

Ive disconnected the TPS and bridged the white wire and red wire, therefore putting 5 volts down the white wire back to the ECU, a little drop of carb cleaner and she runs at 2000 rpm smoothly, no throttle open. Im wondering if either not enough fuel being injected, or too much air getting in from somewhere, checked all pipes on the plenum and all fine.

TPS checked and middle wire is .46 volts with ignition on, when I crank the engine it rises to .55 volts I have the airflow meter disconnected as the air intakes are open, she tries but does not start, I spray carb cleaner in the inlet and she runs perfectly until the carb cleaner burns off???

compression test was fine on all cylinders, thanks for all the advice so far, I will do some more work sunday and report back, Thanks again

I cant be sure the fuel is actually getting into the engine, I know the fuel pressure is correct to the rail and the injectors are clicking, I have taken the crank position sensor off the engine and when I turn it (engine not running) you can here all six injectors click to one full rotation of the crank sensor.

Thanks for the replies, I am going to set the TPS tomorrow and will see what happens, thanks again

I will try and explain this problem and everything I have tried to fix it. 1. The car will not start but turns over. 2. Occasionally between starting attempts the car makes a cough as if its going to start then continually turns over with nothing. 3. Fuel pressure, Compression, Spark, Injectors, Airflow meter, Ignition Amplifier all changed and fault remained. These next two point may enlighten someone to recognize this problem. 4. I remove the intake pipes from the inter cooler to the throttle flaps and spray some easy start into either of the flaps then attempt to start it the car starts purring perfectly and runs with no problem obviously until the easy start burns off. 5. If I block both intakes off completely after spraying a little easy start into the plenum and I take the throttle position sensor off and turn it fully to simulate full throttle then start the car it will run at 1500 rpm perfectly and until I switch it off...????? I hope someone can shed some light on this problem Many Thanks in advance