Benjison

You have had some brake fade mate, just prolonged use of brakes with out the chance to cool properly, I believe putting braided hoses will help with the matter a little bit, as the fluid in the rubber hose from your calipers is so hot it will expand the rubber hose instead of exert preasure to the pad and effectively give you less braking force under your foot, most of the car is solid brake lines anyway so braided hoses to the calipers will help as they keep the rubber from expanding,

Mine are exactly the same as that not sure why there out but they fit ok

The blue z for sale is having a laugh surely! No silly offers!! You listed it on eBay chap!

So from the first post did he collect it or not? You said you wanted him to look at it before he buys, the next sentence says he wants to claim travel expense, him or the courrier?

Now that is genius!

Was well impressed with my swb N/A manual z, I brought it as a backup incase my TT wasn't ready for the trip( it wasn't!) so I took the N/A on the trip along with two scoobys and a Clio 172, it's got a few small mods.. exhaust, chip and lightened pulley, when you wind it up it goes really well ( nothing between it and a Subaru rb5 in pickup speed around the track I went past him on the corners, absolutely loved it, great machine! I would have set a lap time however realized I had massive brake vibrations about 1/3 way round but still had a great time

If you have more fluid in the master now than before it sounds like you may be dragging in air on release of the pedal??

Do you have a quickshift?

I checked the rubber boot and that did make a noticeable difference thankyou, I still have to change oil tonight just for good measure

I have a slight thrust bearing noise when the clutch pedal is up and that does go slightly when depressed, but this noise is noticeable when in gear, I will change the oil and check rubber boot and report back

I have got a noise from my n/a manual gearbox when in gear. I can only describe as an "induction air sucking" noise, it works fine and has the thrust bearing noise when the clutch is dropped in neutral but just wondered your thoughts, I'm going to do an oil change so will see if it cures it,

Personally I think separating the engine an box is a better way of doing it ( yes the top gearbox bolt are a pain but drop the box mount and with all ancillaries off the engine will give you room to put 3 1/2 extentions together and then it's easier) it avoids the scratching, snagging and cursing of getting a large engine and box from a small bay, IMO it's more professional

too true when I had my TT auto had gearbox probs and had gearbox totally rebuilt and a what a big difference

Hit the nail on the head! Had just assumed it was side lights, however 1 grab of the brake pedal and a pull heard the brake switch click went to the back of the car to check and haaarraay! Welldone redwine saved me hours of taking the dash back out, thankyou

Brake and clutch cleaner bud (any brand)

I'm pretty sure it's the side lights, but that is a very good point!! Will check brake switch

Well I was wondering if by not having an earth somewhere, a loom may not be live somewhere affecting the lights somehow? However I did find a 30 amp fuse blown for some reason so will find out what it's for and replace it, could this be associated?

I have recently changed the dash in my swb n/a import but now the rear lights stay on like they have a live feed to them, the only way to turn them of is disconnect the battery, any ideas? Earthing maybe?

£300 to remove engine! Lol they will cr*p themselves

Put the nut back on a good 4-5 threads and while pulling on the steering wheel with one hand tap the nut with a hammer, DO NOT do it with out the nut, you will regret it for the next few hours or more!! Lol

welcome buddy i m also going to the ring in 12 weeks time with my zed

just looked at them! perfect thanks

can any one suggest a courier for collection of some tires, thanks

I want to see if the bonnet closes!!

Great thanks bud