crossfire

Gary, how much did the kit cost you, I need to do mine soon too.

Thank you, I just payed them. Been searching for discs so this is nice find.

Make sure your multimeter is precise. That's how I did it first time and car acted strange, shifted gears in an odd way. So I connected consult cable and discovered that my multimeter was way off, adjusted it by consult after that.

I like that, thank you!

Nice effort to get that car back on road. Could you post a picture od Type S skirts you got?

Twinchip doesn't have them available on their site.

Yes, that's something I hear on US forums, but Australian forums give another story, for some fitment is not the best but nothing that can't be easily fixed, much simpler that building custom setup. For the money they ask, I'm not looking for perfection. Mongoose and Japspeed are too much stock for my taste, SZ is to expensive B&B I like, but it's on upper price side and everyone says that it drones between 2000 and 3000 rpm. That's something I got now and I hate it. Also I would like to have quad exhaust tips. AMS fits in money and style range. It's just that I found only two videos with it.

Did anyone use AMS exhaust? I like the sound of that one.

I got 0W40 from Mobil 1, New Life is the name of this oil line. Did I make a mistake when choosing this oil as best. for my car? My hydraulic valve lifters are loud so I hope this will help.?

I don't know anything about rear break test, what's the problem with LSD? Could someone explain please.

I need rear spoiler, soon my car will be going to a shop, hope he gets back before that.

Found this tread, so not to open a new one. My hydraulic valve lifters are pretty loud, on US nico forum I found a product that Z1 recommends Xtreme Clean Engine Flush. Z1 stated that they had a lot of success in using that oil to quiet down valves lifters. Searching for a similar product in europe I found TEC 2000 engine cleaner. On Alfa forum here, lots of guys used it and almost all had a success (high mileage and low mileage engines). Both with fuel & injector cleaner and engine internals cleaner. One of them had his compression checked before and after treatment, here is what he had: Cyl 1: 7,1 bar Cyl 2: 8,5 bar Cyl 3: 6,5 bar Cyl 4: 6,3 bar after: Cyl 1: 12 bar Cyl 2: 12 bar Cyl 3: 12,5 bar Cyl 4: 12 bar Theory behind this is that TEC 2000 removes carbon buildup on piston compression rings allowing them to fully expand and therefore allow for better compression. Owner of that car was just WOW. Other guys didn't do a compression test so no results from them. But all confirmed better engine response on gas and smoother running. Except one guy, few days later he had a huge lose of compression on one cylinder and started burning oil in that cylinder. But that guy had problems with his engine in start and for a long time suspected that mehanic working on assembling of his engine had done a lousy job. He still didn't disassemble engine to find what went wrong. Also there was an owner of Nissan Sunny that had loud valve lifters after 10 min of this stuff they quieted down, tick is not 100% gone but it's almost unnoticeable now. Owners using TEC 2000 fuel and injectors product had problems with rough idle, hesitation in rev range, etc.. All reported much smoother start ups and running. But almost all had to replace fuel filter as it got clogged after usage and two guys had rattling inside cat, most likely cat burned trough. Obviously this is a potent stuff. But it doesn't has to used in strongest form, it can be used on full of half full gas tank diluting it in higher ratio, what many did. I'm planing to buy TEC 2000 engine cleaner to try to get rid of valve tick. Since I didn't do a compression test on my engine this is a convenient moment to do it, so I will do it before and after and I'm hoping to quiet down lifters. I'm not an big engine guru, so I'm interested did anyone used this in a TT engine. And is there something about TT engine that should make me concerned. Any advice is welcomed.

How about Toyo R1R, they are a little bit cheaper than R888 and look like more user friendly on wet condition.

Before I had them I was scared of the smallest spider, but now I'm cool with them. :D Also you can't have just one, once you get your first, number just goes up. They are not like a regular pet, I don't handle them and play with them, they just sit there and look pretty :D

On TT Swaps When converting your NA to a TT, there are two optional routes one must take in regards to fuel pump control. Install a TT pump, but continue to use an NA FPCU. You must also socket the ECU and install an EPROM which is programmed for a swap, as an NA ECU doesn't have the fuel/ignition maps for forced induction, and a TT ECU would try to control the three-speed FPCU which doesn't exist/doesn't have wiring. A TT ECU also tries to control wastegate actuators and the two-speed cooling fan, both of which don't exist on NA models. The NA FPCU will run the TT FPCU at higher voltage than a TT FPCU would under the same conditions, but most agree this is without ill-effects on the fuel pump, and any excess fuel is dealt with by the fuel pressure regulator. Install a TT pump, TT FPCU, TT ECU, and TT body harness (or run a wire from the ECU to the FPCU harness to supply voltage for the third speed). In general, you should not install a TT ECU in an NA without running the wiring for it and using a TT FPCU, as a TT ECU will try to utilize the third fuel pump speed, which doesn't exist. To a TT FPCU, "speed 1" is 6V, "speed 2" is 7V, and "speed 3" is battery voltage. To an NA FPCU, "speed 1" is 8V, "speed 2" is battery voltage, and "speed 3" is "who are you? what? where am I?" Taken from here: http://z32.wikispaces.com/Fuel+Pump+Control+Unit