Posts posted by MasterCookieman
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Is your EGR still there or has it been removed. Ifs it's gone, you can get to the knock sensor without removing the lower plenum when your upper plenum is off. It's a faff, but doable. If so, replace the sensor and check the continuity from the plug to the ECU, and bobs your uncle you've eliminated one potential cause for your running problems.
If you're EGR is still there, how long ago did it last have a 60/120K service. If it's due any time soon, you're only looking at an extra 8 bolts and the middle idler pulley to get to the knock sensor
I removed the EGR, but never had the engine running properly since. Holes are plugged in the plenum.
It's good to know I can get to the EGR without removing the lower intake though.
My time off has been reduced down to two days, as going to have to go into work now...perfect.. [emoji17]
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Thanks everyone, after pondering it a while, thinking about everything I've done to date, I'm going to continue the battle for now.
I have considered vinyl, so that is an option, but I'm going to concentrate on the running issue first.
I'm going to pull the plenum, replace it, and whilst doing this I'm going to do the coolant bypass. I'll clean out the IACV and check that it's working. I'm going to replace the vacuum pipes with silicone ones.
Thing is, if the knock sensor is causing the problem then really I need to replace it...of course there's the greater issue that the engine is actually knocking. I know you can place a resistor in the knock sensor wiring to fool the ECU, but what about if I just disconnect it? I'd really rather not pull out the lower intake manifold unless I have to.
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So my paint job has again reacted as soon as it got hotter, again. Crazing/cracking...the only option is to strip to metal an try again, for which I no longer have facilities. That's not the issue though.
As mentioned before I have a running problem, I've pulled codes 34 (knock sensor) and 12, MAF (but that should be because I had it disconnected). Even if there is a knock sensor issue, would this cause the engine to stumble and stall?
The car runs great until I connect the confirmed 'good' MAF. So this suggests pump, injectors and coils are fine. Maybe an air leak then...
The engine used to run fine 5 years ago, and so can't be a major issue, gunk maybe. Although history is limited, the engine should have only done 64,000 miles.
In a nutshell, after 5 years I've had enough. Despite feeling a bond with the car I've rebuilt over the past 5 years, and not being the kind of person who gives up, I just feel that maybe I need to move on...
If the paint looked like it did when I first painted (which was amazing!), then at least I'd know I had a great looking car after fixing the running problem....but I wont now.
I have some time off work soon, and the plan was to pull off the plenum, replace with a clean shot blasted one, checking for any air leaks. I have the gaskets (except the IACV one). I was going to clean out the IACV, just seal it with gasket sealant. I have gaskets for the plenum and throttle bodies. Personally I don't believe there is an air leak. I did delete the EGR when the engine was out, but the plenum holes were sealed...it can't be that, but it's the only thing that's changed since the engine last ran.
I just fear this is the end. I just can't do it anymore. Maybe there is a time to just give up, despite everything you've given. I need to move on....
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Hey,
So I'm looking for a Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) Gasket. I saw this -
I've taken a picture of the plenum and I know the shape of it, but I've seen variations, one with two sides (so two holes separated by a thin strip in the middle), another with one side blocked off (so no hole in one side of the gasket) and the final one which was just a general big hole (the link above).
Can anyone tell me which one I need, and the cheapest place to buy one?
Cheers!
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So, I have two MAFs, my original and a replacement I bought from Ebay some time ago.
Without the MAF connected my car runs fine, hovering around 700RPM, but obviously doesn't rev past 2000rpm.
Connect the MAF and there's spluttering, missing, stalling etc, but the car revs beyond 2000rpm, and can be driven - just not well.
I tested both MAF voltages today -
I got around 0.50v on both of them. It was a windy day, which didn't help, but nice to see the voltage climb with a strong gust.
Am I correct that the voltage should be 0.80v? If so, does this mean they're both faulty?
I connected my original MAF, car barely wanted to start...so I do think that one is dead; despite not being touched since it was last used and was working fine, bit odd that, it's all bit odd.
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Hmm, I've looked at Vive, and after much deliberation decided that the Rift was the way to go. I realise that Vive has better movement tracking with 360 degrees as standard, but this can be achieved using Rift and an additional sensor, albeit experimental....but the costs keeps adding up. Personally I think that the Rift will win the battle in the end.
I do have a PS3, if that's even supported anymore but if I'm honest I hadn't looked at PSVR, as it's PS specific and I don't consider it in the same league as Vive and Rift, plus as most of my gaming is PC gaming its pointless.
You ask about the gaming side of things...well, ideally I'd like to login to Sword Art Online and live in it, lol, but I think we're a good decade away from that. I understand that games are limited at the moment, although I'd like play the games I've seen so far I can't help think they're not something I'd spend time 'professionally' playing....more of a laugh - like Wii bowling. In my normal game arena I would play driving simulations, MMOs and RPGs, but understand that we're not really there yet in terms of VR, but I accept that, I just want the experience.
I think I'm just trying to justify the spend, but at the same time I want to support it. I think I'll love it, but don't want to have it for 3 months, then stick in in the corner cause there's no new content and no one developing for it....but I don't think that will happen. Saying that, people never really adopted 3D, and I played some excellent 3D games that just aren't as good in 2D. Really, I think I just needed to be born maybe 20 years later than I was. I remember when VR was meant to happen in the 90's and I was so excited about it, then I guess they realised it wasn't possible with the technology available at the time...and it just died off... so I'm maybe reliving that, and I finally want what was promised to me as a kid!!! :)
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Edited by MasterCookieman
So, just wondered if anyone has an Oculus Rift?
It's just reduced in price - so £600 with Touch and a game - https://www.oculus.com/rift/
I've watched plenty of videos on YouTube, read reviews etc. I'm almost sold.
I have a PC that that according to the Steam Bench-marking App, will run it comfortably.
I just wondered if anyone here had it, and can tell me their experience? More long term really, I don't want to use it for a month and be bored - I'd expect to be using it frequently, not like a fad type thing that you only get out when you have people around etc...
It is the first piece of technology to get me excited in many years, and despite having plenty of home improvements to spend £600 on....I'm tempted to throw caution to the wind and just do it.
There are demo days I could go to locally, but almost sure if I went along to one of these I'd buy the thing anyway!!!
I have experienced VR at Alton Tower albeit a low res version, and thought it was great. I think I need it in my life!!! :)
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So, the motors I ordered from China finally turned up today and I've spent the last 2 hours trying stuff....my Friday nights sure have hit a new time low. lol
In a nutshell, they would have almost been a perfect replacement, they're exactly the same size. The extra shaft sticking out the back could be cut off...so no issue there, but the problem is the originals have splines cut into the shaft where the worm gear attaches, and this proved to be a problem, the new ones don't have splines. So, I tired using the new motor and attaching the worm with contact adhesive (all I had, other than plastic glue), soon as I powered the motor up it just spun the shaft inside the worm. Something stronger may have worked though.
So I figured I'd use the shaft from the old motor. Although I finally got it apart, I destroyed the rear plastic bit that houses the brushes. To top it off, I couldn't get the old shaft out because of the splines!! So....I ended up attaching the rear brush housing from one of the new motors to the old motor. This worked, and everything seems ok. I'll try it on my Zed tomorrow.
When I took the old motor apart, all seemed fine. I'm guessing it was the bushes causing the seizing issue.
So, at least this provides options for those with dead folding motors.
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Well, I took apart my dodgy 'replacement' mirror tonight -
No luck unfortunately, it sparked on the motor contacts, and I think it was getting warmer but could have just been my body heat, but anyway - no movement. I was unable to turn the shaft by hand (fingers) and had to use pliers (without power connected), even then it was tough to turn. It should be easy right, until you power up the magnet 'core', as until then there is no resistance against the normal magnets, right?
Anyway - I saw this and for £2 I think it's worth a shot -
Shaft is a little short, and I'd have to cut of the 'tail', but sizes seem good. Not sure I need high RPM...but so the mirror folds faster, I can live with that.
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So, using my old mirrors, I stripped down one of the motors and I connected 12v.
The pink and orange wires are wires that come from the car side, and where I connected the 12v
The white disc in the pics seems to be a switch that revolves when the mirror folds/unfolds, and must cut the power to the motor once folded/unfolded. There's what looks to be capacitors connected underneath the IC, not sure what these do.
So, applying 12v directly to the motor did nothing, even after turning the motor manually. On checking with the meter; 12v enters through the pink and orange wires fine, and gets to the IC on the rotatory switch, but isn't getting beyond it, even if I rotate the switch.
So I'm not sure if there's more than one issue here. I'll try the other motor tomorrow and see what's going on in there.
Either way, I find it odd that 3 out of 4 motors that did work fine have just given up. I'm almost sure if I hadn't removed the first two from the car, they'd still be working. The replacements worked too when I got them, I tested them, after painting, one was dead. Just plain weird!
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No easy way, tank removal is safest option really, or you could use the fuel pump with a feed line disconnected and return clamped off to empty it into a container, check the fuel pump strainer also, siphoning is slow.
Jeff
Cheers :)
Do you know if the the pump starts pumping on turning the key, but before starting the engine?
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Cheers! I'll do that. I only just bought these replacement mirrors, so if I can fix rather than replace the motor, which was working, then I'll do that.
My 'test' battery IS my Zed battery, but as I've been rebuilding my Zed I haven't needed a fully working battery, just something to power the windows and lights etc. I will be getting a new battery soon though.
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I'm looking at replacing the folding motor in my drivers wing mirror. Looking at Ebay, the motor looks similar to the following, only the contacts are at the bottom rather than the back -
There wasn't any info on the motor when I opened up the wing mirror, so can anyone tell me if this motor will work?
Annoyingly the motor was working before I painted the mirror!!! In fact it's the third motor to die (on other mirrors) after I painted them...weird. Unless the 'test' battery I'm using just doesn't have enough power left in it to operate the motor.
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Hey,
Looking for the screws for these -
I don't have any screws that come close, annoyingly I don't know where mine have gone and would rather use 'proper' screws.
I think they're the same as the front sidelight / indicator screws.
Possible like this - https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-300zx-sidemarker-corner-combination-lamp-screw-90-96-z32-01451-00041_p_5921.php
Cheers!
The end of Project Z...
in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
No consult or anything, but something I considered. I remember reading somewhere to stay away from the Chinese leads on Ebay. It would be great if when I pull the plenum there's an obvious problem...like an EGR blanking playenthats not sealed...i don't have that kind of luck though!
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