ljrzx

Getting the wheels to fit correctly will depend on ride height, camber, wheel offset, rim width and tyre sizes. If you are happy with your cars stance and you are only changing the cars width (not ride height, camber etc) then either wheels with a -20mm offset to the offset you already have or 20mm bolt on spacers should work (if you choose 20mm spacers then check you wheels have small recess to allow for part of the stud to poke through the spacer, stock 300zx wheel studs are approx 25mm-ish so 25mm spacers are fine). If you are lowering your car, changing the width etc, then imo it would be best to sort the wide arch and lowering first to get an idea on how the wheels you already have sit on the car, that way you will be able to judge how far the wheels need to come out. A negative offset will bring the wheels outwards and is measured in mm, the wheel width is measured in "j" which means inches eg 8j wheels are 8inches wide etc, hope this helps when looking for wheels. Tyre sizes and camber setting can affect fitment of the wheel in the arch too, so worth bearing that in mind also. Leigh

Hello, I wouldnt adjust the pre-load (tighening the spring) as this could cause each side of the car to react differently in corners/bumps etc. You are able to buy harder springs which you could swap over though. Have you looked if your camber settings are equil? slightly 'stretching' your tyre sizes would also help against this, depends how you like your stance tho, otherwise I would agree with jaffa about trimming the lip of the arch. Leigh

Hi Terry, I have 9.5 et30 18" wheels with 255 35 18 tyres on the rear of mine, the fitment was very similar to yours, even after lowering mine they cleared the arches with np as when the wheels go up into the arches a fair amount of negitive camber happens pulling the top of the wheel inwards, (that was with stock arches with no rolling or pulling on them and stock camber arms). However they did rub ever so slightly with 265 35 18 tyres. Hope this helps Leigh

you will need to remove the ball joints that attach the hicas arms to the hub. the ball joints are replaced with new bushes that come with the kit. dunno if this helps.

i have just finished putting the dash back in from doing mine, the easiest way i found in mine was to strip out the dash inc the metal support bar, remove the clutch pedal, then the small black box on the right hand side of the main air box, remove the spring and a bunch of hidden screws. i took all the nuts off from the main box with the heater matrix in to give it a bit of play, i then cut the small bit of plastic at the rear of the box where the small screw is which attaches the pipes to the box (this is the screw you have to unscrew through the bulkhead if you are removing the matrix with the dash in), then i unscrewed the copper pipes from the matrix (if you havnt drained the engine water you may want to take the rad cap off to help with any pressure as mine decided to spray water into the cabin when i did this lol) - the box should then pull out enough to be able to slide the matrix out and replace it this way - i felt more comfortable doing it this way than cutting the pipes as i didnt have anything suitable to cut the pipe with, there is also alot less copper pipe showing than i was hoping for. - hope this makes sense, is the way i found easiest for me. leigh

im unsure but i have a uk model with leather seats and both of my front seats are electric

i had a similar problem, found out my filter was getting wet from the water spray on the roads, i covered it from underneath with bits of plastic to help keep it dry and had no problems since. dont know if this helps

sounds a good idea, do you mean the copper pipes that run from the matrix? behind the small black box on the left side of the clutch pedal?

Im at the point of trying to remove the 2 pipes from the engine bay that lead through the bulkhead into the back of the heater matrix, I seem to have very little to no room to be able to access these 2 pipes, has anyone had to remove anything from the engine bay to be able to get to these pipes properly. even if i manage to remove them with a long screwdriver, there is no way i can get at them to put them back on when im re-installing the heater matrix. The dash is fully removed, it is a manual and still has the clutch in place. leigh

ive done 13k so far this year, mainly due to the 50mile round trip to work everyday, inc some long drives and days out. As im quite young it didnt justify running 2 cars with insurance etc this year, but next year a 2 car policy should even things out.

sounds like a plan to me guys, thanks again

how much heat do you recon it should need?? approx?? unsure if thats a silly question but just i dont fancy replacing the hub anytime soon, lol. thanks

thanks for the reply, i think i may have to tomorrow, i did initially want to stay away from heat as i didnt want to warp it in anyway. but i am running out of ideas rather quickly now lol. appreciate the info

how this still insists on remaining attached to my zed... Uploaded with ImageShack.us i did read a few threads on here on how to remove hicas ball joints, and i started off grinding down the ball joints to knock through with a hammer etc but they wouldnt budge so i thought i`d try and drill through to hopfully release some pressure (not sure if that was a good idea or not) but now im at this point..any ideas?? lol. Cheers

im sure ive seen this one around there few times too