MarkyMark

Was wondering what the external diameter of the boost jets are. I've turned some up at work on the lathe and currently they are 6mm. Roughly the same size as a 0.22 bullet. Cheers

Bought mine from Mike at MJP. They come in packs of 4 so had to buy 2 packs £40 delivered (i think). Phoned him on Friday and they were through my letter box the following morning. Mark

I had my Cats removed and had the split dumps fitted. I haven't noticed much of a power improvement but the Turbo's do spin up about 500-750rpm sooner. One thing that has changed is the noise levels. But to be fair i think that it is more the fact that the rear section of my 5Ziggens exhaust doesn't actually do much in the way of silencing. I'll be getting some extra silencers cut into the de-cats soon as it is far too loud for me. Mark

Thanks Dave

Cheers Dave, did you have to replace the whole lot (expensive from what i understand?) or was it one small part? Also it seems fine most of the time, till i put my foot down and the boost rises, then the peddle gets heavier. Is there some restrictor in the system that stops all the pressure going into the clutch booster?

Thanks Homebrew. I'll give it a go and see how i get on. ;)

Have recently fitted the st/st braided clutch hose and a new clutch master cylinder piston/seal kit. Was all okay for a while but now i am getting variable pressure when pressing the clutch down. Some times it feels like there is asistance other times none. Do you think i've got a leak on the booster pipes? Could it be air trapped in the system? Or worse? Any help is greatly appreciated. Ta Mark

I've contacted Powerflow and the silencers will be £80 each fitted. This would mean cutting new silencers into the de-cat pipes, and yes i would go for non-restricting types. Not sure if it would be cheaper to replace the mid silencer in my system though, but it does need quieting down a hell of a lot. Mark

I had the Megan Racing ones of Ebay fitted recently by the Zen Garage. These come with the divorced wastegates as well, which are a bit of a pain to fit, but not too bad. Martyn at Zen said that he needed to modify the Starter motor fixings slightly and open up the flange holes (wher the pipes joined onto the rest of the system) but that was it. I think the starter motor needed modifying because the pipes run quite close. One other thing, it appears my 5Ziggens exhaust has pretty much no silencing properties, as after the de-cats were fitted it makes my ears bleed whenever i go over 3000rpm. I'm going to get some extra silencers fitted as soon as i can afford them. Mark

Thanks greg. I'll take a butchers tonight

Just got my car working again after a month off the road (Clutch master cylinder worn) and it started okay and ran okay for 4-5mins. Then the the engine /exhaust note started fluctuating. Its only changing by 50-100rpm but its not right. The idle is changing about once every second. I haven't had a chance to hook the laptop up to the car yet but could the Idle be set too low (Its roughly 750rpm at the mo). Any help appreciated... Ta

Okay, tried pushing new fluid in from the slave up, tried pushing fluid in from the wing down. seems like all the air is out but when the pedal is pumped lots of bleedin' air again. As syko says, the next thing to change is the Master cylinder seals (seeing bubbles appear in the resevoir), and have ordered a new kit from MJP. Cheers for all the info. boys, Mark

Cheers John, I'll give it a go. Watch this space........

Thanks for all the advice gents. Going to try something similar to johns washer pump tonight. John are you saying that you are pushing in fluid from the slave to the top or are you sucking oil through the slave from the top? FYI the car is facing up hill + I have been jacking the front up to get access. Still full of poxy air. I may try clamping the slave closed, so that when it is released it only pulls in fluid. Does anyone know where the pipe to the front actually goes? Cheers, Mark

:cry: Gents, my Zed has been immobile for over a week now purley because i cant bleed all of the air out of the clutch system :( . I have spent far too many hours laying under/over/ in the car and am starting to get frustrated (the wifes none too keen either as i'm constantly borrowing her car). As far as i know you bleed the slave cylinder on the bell housing and then you bleed the pipe near the front wing. Thats it. It should be easy. But its not happening...... What, and where does the pipe on the front wing go? It appears to dissappear into the corner of the engine bay? Whenever I'm trying to bleed the air it just seems like a constant stream of bubbles, even though the resevoir is full? I must have passed a litre of oil through and there is still bubbles. Are there any tricks/ knacks/ techniques to doing this, that i don't know about? I'm going to try pressurising the sytem by feeding oil back through the wing nipple (with the resevoir cap on) and hopefully that will force all the air out through the slave cylinder. But if that doesn't work what do i try next? Could my master cylinder be knackered? It was working before i changed the clutch hose(?). Any help is more than gratefully received...

Cheers Bud!

:headvswal Have just spent the whole of Sunday, lying on my back trying to bleed the air out of my clutch system. Was working okay but i had a leak from the hose going to the slave cylinder. Changed the hose and tried flushing though, but the Clutch pedal does absolutely bugger all now. I could only find the one nipple (on the slave) where is the other one as i couldn't see any more? BTW my cars a 91 J-Spec. The anoying thing is, i need to get this sorted so i can take my car to Topless to get the leaky downpipes changed. Any help is appreciated....

Unfortunately they are off ebay, not sure if they are cheap shit though. How can you tell? Is there any discernable differances between good & bad Megan pipes, anything i could look out for? The Garage i use has got a proper engineering workshop should any minor mods be needed but again it all costs money. BTW thanks for all the feedback guys, Mark

Thanks Legrath, I wasn't thinking of doing the job myself, but am a bit skint at the mo. I'm just worried that this is gonna cost a fortune to fit at my local garage, which from what i have read, they won't (at least not without some adjustment). Is it correct that its best to get to all the bolts on the elbow from underneath the car?

Having scanned through the help pages, I am getting more and more nervous that the Megan Racing De-cats and turbo elbow (divorced wastegates) exhaust parts are a load of crap! This is very bad news as my downpipes are really blowing. From what i can tell, it can take 8 hours to replace the turbo elbow's, if you've got a ramp and all of the correct tools. Has someone out there had no problems fitting them? Can you just fit the De-cat sections and forget the Elbows (if they are such a nightmare)? I've already bought these off of ebay, so any help would be appreciated. Ta, Mark :(

Anyone know where i can get a St/St clutch hose? Do any of the traders stock them? Mine has started weaping from the join with the fitting. Cheers, Mark

Thanks gents, I didn't realise that if/when the spoiler is replaced I'd need to get a strip to fill this bit in. Thanks for all the help.

There you go bud. The bit i'm talking about is the ropey matt black bit right under the spoiler.

Should this panel (in between boot spoiler and rear lights) be perspex? The car is a 91 Jap import but my panel has been painted. I always thought that only the later cars had a perspex panel. Am i wrong and should i get out the paint stripper :rolleyes:

Thanks for all the help Gents. Was the AIV strip out tricky? When you took them off do you have to plug hoses on the engine, disconnect plugs etc.?