WillyEd
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Posts posted by WillyEd
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If the polarity is wrong you'll effectively be trying to close the internal solenoid with each pulse rather than open it - not helpful. Doubt you'll damage anything if it's only for a few seconds / minutes, if say, you're starting the engine to check the idle once finishing your re-wiring.
Prolonged reversal could burn out the relevant transistor in the PTU - but that's just a precautionary hunch.
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Tompei, Sure, if you're up this way about give me shout.
Joe, (nice friendly chap BTW), shame we couldn't get to the bottom of the odd-idling woes you're suffering with.
As promised here's that link to my JAE pics from 2008 where your car appears a few times:
http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=1133625#post1133625
I hope Jeff / A.N. Other specialist can get the beast running nicely again.
Simon.
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With a cold engine, turn on the ignition for a few seconds to get the fuel pressure up and switch off again.
Then just follow your nose around the top of the intake plenum - you should find any leaks quite quickly, and with the cold engine you have a better chance of actually seeing any sprayed fuel as it won't evaporate so quick...
If the hoses are old and possibly cracked then tightening the clips will only help for a short time.
From memory there are a lot of possible clips any one of which might be the cause:
- 4 by the battery
- 2 on the rail
- 2 for the FPR
- 2 for the damper
- 2 on the fuel filter
Get yourself some Gates 8mm fuel hose from your local motor factors - but stick with the standard clips.
Alternatively, (preferably even?), you can re-pipe with less connections. Kits are available, like the DTA one RH7470 pointed out.
Happy hunting
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Thats another festival/exhibition an f1 car is never left to idle as it will just over heat very quickly, They used to shuv loads of dry ice in the vents to keep them cool at the start up and warm up laps not sure if they still do this tho. Warm up lap is mainly to heat tyres and brakes.
It is another festival car true, but it will be driven.
And true, it would, given time, over heat. But all the examples I posted are only being warmed for about 60 - 100 seconds. Seems a resonable amount of time to get a few litres of oil and several litres of coolant to about 90 degrees C.
I've seen the dry ice being used on the old turbo charged cars from long ago. They used to freeze the intercoolers - reversing any heat soak from being stationary.
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Edited by WillyEd
Added linksTrust me an f1 engine is far different to a modern car engine, They are pre heated before they are even started, they have hot water pumped thru the coolant and oil is also heated.That video doesnt look like a warm up but more of a test or something exhibition maybe. Revving the tits off that while stationary cant be good.
Agreed, quite a different beast. But they are all warmed up - I haven't heard of the water being pre-heated before though(?)
Some may have seen these before, different cars, but same principle:
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=sf7DU4SZFF8
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=9nA6zoK5luE
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=jFLSfTZjlNk
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys4ukHDIvZc
This one takes the biscuit however:
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=1JPBdBIFGNQ (from 58 secs)
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Hi mate. I have a few points to question your responses.
1) Agreed, not all oil does, but most of it does. Which is why taking dip-stick measurements is ideal on an engine that’s stood. You’ve got to wait for oil to flow back down to the bottom.
2) OPR does take care of flow, but only to bring pressure down on cold-start. It again does not have any capabilities in getting oil ‘flowing’ round the heads. The pressure maybe controlled, but the oil’s viscosity is still not at the best rate for flow.
3) All oils work best at operating temperatures regardless of weight and / or synthetic content. Synthetics are thinner at lower temperatures and don’t get much thinner at higher temperatures. In that respect, it’s just as well you get in the car and drive it as you’re almost contradicting the fact of putting that grade of oil in in the first place. :)
Thanks for the reply. I think we may agree more than I'd given credit for:
1. Agreed. There is a lot of residual oil which drains back.
2. Agreed also, in my post I assumed that the engine is in good condition and the oil galleries are unblocked.
3. I would wholly agree if you said 'perform' better at working temp, as it's really the engine's ability (nee design) which inhibits full function at lower temps.
Just for the record, my start-up routine is usually:
- Start the engine
- Do the usual 'pre-flight' checks (check gauges, get belt on, set temp.)
- And I'm off - all in all about 20 seconds of sitting around.
Once I'm off, it's mainly conservative driving until I see the gauge read middle-ground and then I feel no guilt in using 'all that's available' :)
This F1 engine warm up should aid this thread:
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=56zbHewJHJE
Lots of middle revs followed by various blasts of high RPM.:
- Middle (not low) revs get the heat in quick
- Blasts of high RPM 'swells' the rings out so avoid glaze build up.
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You've got no oil at the top of the engine when starting from cold, the best way to get oil up there is to drive it. Oil won't get up to the top end as quickly if it's just sat at idle.
The oil is more viscous (resistance to pour) when cold. Engine on idle produces low oil pressure. So, you've got thick oil in a cold engine with no pressure. What's it not doing? It's not getting through the oil galleries properly and not getting up to the top end. Metal against metal! Oil doesn't really work until it's at operating temperature, meaning the more you just leave it idling doing nothing, the more wear you're creating. You need to get some heat into the oil, get it moving, quickest way to do that is to drive it gradually bringing the revs up.
Obviously don't get in it and thrash the nuts off it as you'll screw the turbos up and do damage to the internals. But light driving is the best way to warm the oil up and keeping the wear low.
Makes me laugh when I hear people leaving their car to warm up for 10 minutes or so thinking they're doing the car some good, when in actual fact, they are doing the complete reverse.
Si, you have a history of writing knowledgeable and well reasoned posts on the forum here. I, for one, enjoy your well thought replies and witty responses.
On this occassion however, I think you need to re-think what you've put.
A few facts which contradict your post:
1. Oil does not drain back into the sump - unless stood for many weeks, possibly months.
[A worn oil pump could allow this to happen though]
2. The oil pressure regulator takes care of start up pressure. Usually, in my Z for example, the pressure within a couple of seconds of start up will sit at 120psi until the oil starts to warm and thins a little (10W40 Mobil 1) - regardless of RPM.
[The regulator, if worn, could, depending on design, reduce this higher cold-starting pressure]
3. If you've got the right oil for the operating climate - cold oil is just as effective as warm oil. It's the oil pump which might have trouble pumping a sufficient amount of 'thicker' oil if you demanded it - e.g. taking your engine above 4K RPM.
4. Most engine damage occurs within the first few seconds - whilst the pressure comes up from 0. This is one of the few times metal-on-metal contact could happen. On a regularly driven car with good oil - it should be of no concern.
Excessive idlling will cause however:
- A build up of glaze in the bores
- Excessive carbon buildup in the heads.
Anyway, Si, I know we haven't spoken before, so please don't take it personally that I'm disputing your opinion. Like I said above, I usually enjoy reading your posts and replies, but felt this particular post of yours was more mis-information than information.
Constructive criticism welcome
Simon.
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One of these from Halfords will do the trick:
Keeps my boat battery alive and well for most of the year.
Simon.
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I'll try and get some pics tomorrow, both are perfectly round and exactly the same size, the broken glass has actually powdered. The glazier has stuck a self adhesive poly cover over the first.
If the projectile has passed both panes then it's in your room somewhere! Check the hoover bag! I'm sure it's worthy evidence.
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Unfortunately - yes!
I believe, having spoken to the police in the past about this, that the person(s) being recorded could complain if you set up a fixed camera. However, camcorder footage would be looked at differently and could therefore be used in court. (CCTV footage couldn't, unless you had it registered and had the proper signage in place etc)
Maybe getting yourself a 2nd hand camcorder from eBay wouldn't be a bad idea anyway - could be cheap, what with gadget season just around the corner and it will probably have a good zoom you can put to good use.
I'd put it in the window on a tripod - recording to a PC all night and one day you will catch the bugger!
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Edited by WillyEd
First thing I'd do is open the ECU to see if there's a socketed chip. If there is, I'd take a copy of it and load the image up in one of the many free tools available (such as TunerPro) and compare the fuel TP scale between a standard BIN and your one.
(I do appreciate however, that not every one has an EEPROM reader/burner to hand!)
Regards
Simon.
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was it a series one you had? i thought the eight bit series one wouldnt proccess over 400hp
well there you go
Mate, you sure you're not mincing yer terminology here? Do you mean the ECU?
Either way, you're wrong. 8bit ECU (89 - 96) perfectly capable for producing good results. I'm sure JD etc would back this up.
As for the PTU - it makes the spark plugs fire. Series 1 or series 2 doesn't matter - both do the same job (The series 2 is a more robust unit and doesn't appear to suffer from the poor soldering often found in the S1)
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Not mine, but looks good and might be of interest to someone:
Hello from Nico
in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
Nico!: Now, there's a legacy forum name from the past!
We just need Andy Duff, Ajay, TimmyTurbo and good-ol-Warren aka '300z' here for some old-skool lively banter!
I thought you took Gary's over-zealous application of 'the rules' rather well!
In my opinon, you and Craig should have an honorary full memberhip!
Simon.
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To all mods.
All affiliates of this site have a debt of gratitude for the likes of Nico and Craig: without them, this site wouldn't be as it is today. For everyday folk (not traders), the out of touch rules on only being allowed sell if you're a paid up member is nothing short of blackmail and ought to be changed. You're turning away honest sellers who will ultimately go on to sell their vehicle or parts through another channel which, frankly, doesn't really cause them any hardship. On the other hand however, the rule actually denies all members, paid up or otherwise, from picking up some good bargains which, most likely, end up selling for more on eBay!