Oilman

Edge Sport replaces RS, not Edge. Still have RS 10w-60. Cheers Simon

Still here, just PM or email me and we'll get it sorted. New online shop will be up next week which should make things easier. Cheers Simon

Sure can. Drop me a mail to sales@opieoils.co.uk and I will forward on a bike oil price list for you. Cheers Guy.

It's because thinner oils dissapate heat better (remember I don't recommend 10w-60) and the thicker the oil, the more friction and that equals heat and wear. These cars are designed to run on an sae 30,40 or 50. Cheers Simon

In theory no it shouldn't be, its the same as any other 40 oil at 100degC and 40 times thicker at 0degC. However many say it's not suitable, some with valid reasons. Cheers Simon

Yep, totally used to it. There are good and bad, nice and anal. Come across them all in my travels in cyberspace. Cheers Simon

I work for myself. I deal with 164 car Clubs and Forums. Cheers Simon

You mean "edge". It certainly looks better on paper than RS but then again costs a lot more! Cheers Simon

What is the point of getting into too much technical detail and losing people? I have been accused of getting too complicated in the past and the explanations become unreadable or simply lose people. All the above can be proven, check the oil manufacturers sites. Cheers Simon

I read so much stuff on the internet about Synthetic Oils that is simply not true so I felt it was time to tell the truth rather than accept the myth. So in future when you see someone state any of these, please do me a favour and point them at this thread! Synthetic motor oils damage seals: Complete Nonsense! Any oil seals made after 1975 or thereabouts will be entirely compatible with any type of synthetic engine oil. (The same goes for synthetic gear oils and transmission oil seals.) It must be understood that everything associated with lubrication is thoroughly tested. The major oil manufacturers do not make oils that attack seals; seal manufacturers ensure that their products function correctly with modern lubricants. Synthetic oils are too thin: It is true that the best synthetic blends can be low viscosity (0w-20 for example), but they do not have to be! It is also true that the latest engines are designed to run on thin oil, which improves power output and fuel consumption. Even so, thicker synthetic based grades (10w-50, 15w-50, 20w-50etc) are available for air-cooled motors, older engines, or severe high temperature conditions. These grades can also benefit rebuilt classic engines dating back to the 1940s. Synthetics mean higher oil usage: The complete opposite of the truth. Oil consumption in well-maintained modern engines is mainly down to the oil evaporating at high temperatures. Synthetic base oils (specially the PAO and ester types) are very resistant to evaporation loss even in low viscosity blends, so oil consumption is minimised. Obviously, engines with worn valve guides, defective seals and worn piston rings will use oil regardless, so there is no point in using expensive synthetics as an ‘old banger lube’. Synthetic oils are not compatible with other oils: All engine oils intended for normal road use in recent 4-stroke engines are compatible with one another, regardless of the base make-up. (mineral, PAO/ester/hydrocracked synthetic, and semi-synthetic.) There is no need to flush or strip down an engine when changing from one type to another. (…but be careful with the exception: castor oil based racing oils.) Synthetic oils produce sludge: Well honestly, this is just totally daft. All synthetic bases are more resistant to oxidation than mineral oil, and sludge is largely due to oxidation. In any case, all motor oils intended for road use meet the higher API specs such as SH, SJ, SL and diesel equivalents. One of the main reasons for introducing the API specs back in the 1950s was to deal with oil sludge problems. All high-spec oils run very clean, especially synthetics. Synthetic oils cannot be used with catalytic converters: ‘Cats’ will perform more efficiently and last longer if synthetic based engine oil is used. Their lower volatility (see 3 above) means that less oil reaches the combustion chambers via crankcase ventilation, so there are less harmful ash residues from burnt oil to de-activate the catalyst matrix. Synthetic oils can void warranties: People who make statements such as this never define the type of synthetic, thus revealing their ignorance. Provided that an oil meets or exceeds the API and viscosity ranges specified in the handbook, the warranty will not be affected. (By law, OEMs cannot insist that a particular brand of oil must be used to maintain warranty.) Synthetic oils will last forever: The better synthetic blends will certainly last longer*, especially in high performance or high annual mileage situations, but ‘forever’ is not on, simply because contaminants such as soot, and acid gasses from traces of sulphur in the fuel degrade the oil. (*Provided that a very shear resistant VI improver polymer is used in the oil formulation to keep the viscosity up to spec. This point is often forgotten. Synthetic oils are too expensive: True, for older vehicles that use a lot of oil or are almost ready for the scrap yard. For cars that are worth maintaining, the right types of synthetic oil are a cost-effective way of retaining ‘as new’ performance, low fuel consumption, and reducing maintenance costs. (See 6 above, for example. ‘Cats’ aren’t cheap!) Cheers Simon

To sum up it depends on the state of tune an style of driving. We tend to recommend 10w-50 if the car is modded or used on track and running oil temps higher than 120degC. If the car is stock and used on the road and running standard oil temps of 80-110degC then 10w-40 or 5w-40. The stock Nissan Recommendations for these cars (depending on ambient temperatures) is sae 30, 40 or 50. We have found the Silkolene PRO S 10w-50 to work well in these cars and give higher protection when hot to cars that are either modded or driven hard. I can post Nissans recommended grades for NA and TT here but you will find that I've posted them before if you do an advanced search under username oilman. Cheers Simon

Yep, sales@opieoils.co.uk Look forward to hearing from you. Cheers Simon

Yep, its very very thin. Cheers Simon

Sorry, meat to say SAE50. Cheers Simon.

You still dont need a 10w-60 for oil cooled turbos, oil cools by moving fast, the faster you can get it to move/take away heat the better. Go no thicker than an SAE30 or else that oil will start to slow down. Cheers Simon.

The technical data sheet which all oils have. Looks like a 0w-20 something to me. Cheers Simon

In that case I would recommend every oil from 0w-20 to 20w-60 and from Castrol, Mobil, Amsoil, Silkolene, Fuchs and Motul! I recommend oils because they are suitable for the application, why else would I do it as I sell all the major makes anyway. I recommend Fully synthetic if the car is modded/driven hard and generally 10w-50 as being the most suitable grade. I recommend either fully or semi-synthetic for the stock road cars either 5w-40 or 10w-40. Brands, down to you but use a quality one and avoid the cheapies. Cheers Simon

Probably a 0w-20 Cheers Simon

You need to know what viscosity it is first though as it may not be suitable. Cheers Simon

My recommendations are all in my oil advce thread and have been for a long time, just take a look. To subscribe as a trader I would need to talk to the Club and the admins to agree a way forward. RP, I had some tested back in the summer and there were some interesting results but not for discussion on a public forum. You can always email me off the boards though. Cheers Simon

It quality-wise is the best you can get, it has to be! It's pretty much 100% ester basestock and unless you're Richard Branson, you won't be able to afford it! Cheers Simon

I get asked all the time "why do you advise against the use of 10w-60?". Let's get one thing clear, I supply 10w-60 and recommend it where it is appropriate for the engine or the application but conversly I caution against it's misuse! I have debated this many times on many car forums and I know there are some that do not agree with me however I have never had a reasonable technical explanation why 10w-60 is in fact suitable, it's certainly not mentioned in the handbooks of many modern highly tuned performance cars, with the exception of some Alfa Romeos for "spirited driving" whatever that is meant supposed mean. Explaining this is diffucult so there may be questions but I'll try my best to explain it in plain English! Lets look at what oil specs actually mean and particularly the higher number which is in fact the oils SAE number (the "w" number is in fact the cold crank viscosity and measured in a different way) The SAE number is measured by the oils viscosity at 100degC. Your cars require according to the manufacturers specs, sae 30, 40 and in some cases sae 50. To attain the relevent sae number the oil has to be at 100degC (no thinner than) SAE 30 11cst approx SAE 40 14cst approx SAE 50 18cst approx Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid. As viscosity varies with temperature, the value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is measured. In the case of oils, viscosity is generally reported in centistokes (cst) and usually measured at 40degC and 100degC. SAE 60 is in fact 24cst viscosity at 100degC! This is 33% thicker than an sae 50, 70% thicker than an sae 40 and over 100% thicker than an sae 30! So, what's the problem with this thickness? Well, this is measured at 100degC and at lower temps (70-90degC) all oils are thicker than at 100degC so the problem is compounded to some extent. The downsides of such a thick oil (when not specified) are as follows: Additional friction, heat and wear. A reduction of BHP at the wheels Lower fuel consumption The thicker the oil is the more friction and drag and the more power the engine needs to move it around the engine which inevitably translates to less at the wheels. So, when do we spec a thicker oil? Well, you will probably have seen us on occassions recommending a 10w-50 but only in these circumstances. 1. If the car is heavily modded and heat/oil temperatures are excessive. 2. If the car is used on track and heat/oil temperatures are excessive. 3. If it's required by the handbook. Our criteria for this is based on oil temps as an sae 40 semi-synthetic can handle around 110degC for limited periods whereas a proper synthetic sae 40 can hande 120-130degC for prolonged periods due to its thermal stability. Once you see more than say 120degC for prolonged periods an sae 50 is adviseable as it is 18cst at 100degC and still 11cst at 130degC! This is in fact the same as an sae 30 at 100degC. More importantly at 90degC an sae 40 is 15cst, an sae 50 is 20cst and an sae 60 is 30cst! In a worst case scenario with thick oils (when not required) is that you will experience air entrainment and cavitation inside the bearings at high RPM. Not clever stuff! I know this is technical stuff but oil is a combination of science and engineering and few people know enough about it to make an informed choice. Just because your mates use it and have had no problems is not a good enough reason to use it, your engine would prefer and benefit from the correct oil. Cheers Simon

It adds up to £22 (22 sales), I'm happy to send it now but was going to do so at the end of December. Sales have been dissapointing because I cannot mention prices on the forum, clubs that allow me to do so, usually net £500 ish per annum and there are many. Cheers Simon

£34.99 carriage free for two weeks! Cheers Simon

Yep, I have a carriage free offer on for the next two weeks. Just call Guy on 01209 215164 for prices but.............they're great!! Cheers Simon PS. I could post the full offer here if the admins allow! Admins?