Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

300ZX Owners Club

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Oilman

Dormant Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Country

    United Kingdom

Everything posted by Oilman

  1. For running in, you will need a good rich mineral or semi synthetic oil. Around the 15w-50 grade and run in for around 1000 miles, then you can swithc to a full synthetic. Plenty to look at here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm Hope this helps. Cheers Simon.
  2. An oil like this is more than capable of handling those temperatures. Cheers Simon
  3. Motul 300V 15w-50 is a double ester/pao formulation all other motul 15w-50's are petroleum based oils. The 300V is a top oil and popular in the "race" and "modded car" community. Tech data sheet here: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/TechSpecs/Mobil%20and%20Motul/300VCompetition.pdf Cheers Simon
  4. Bart, I did get your email thanks. I am requesting some further clarification and will get back to you ASAP. Cheers Simon
  5. Tattooman. How is this thread crap? I guess it's because you don't agree with the advice - That doesn't mean it's crap. The information here is both factual and informative and appreciated by many here so I guess it's time to stop posting offensive and unnecessary replies. We know you don't agree and you've made your points. The thread is entitiled oil advice and recommendations, lets keep it on topic or lock it all together and members can find another expert to give advice. Cheers Simon
  6. Bart, No problem, Please drop me a mail to sales@opieoils.co.uk and I will give you a list of options and prices. For some reason I cannot use the pm system here :confused: HHhhhmmm. Cheers Simon.
  7. The RS 10w-60 report is composed by a Chemist (who indeed works for Fuchs/Silkolene) but the contents are chemical analysis which anyone with the appropriate equipment can do and will find the same results. Our recommendations are recieved from Olyalager Organisation B.V. which is a proprietory database used by most oil companies including Fuchs. They also use OATS which is a UK based one that we subscibe to for quick reference although Olyalager is by far more comprehensive. Oil companies pay tens of thousands of pounds per annum to subcribe to these databases as it would be uneconomical for them to have their own and keep them up to date. I must just say that I am offended by some of the posts on this forum from people who are so called "experts" but clearly don't read either the handbook or the advice that I give which is free and correct. If our advice is not wanted or appreciated then I would suggest that this thread is locked and forum members contact us by email rather than getting into a slanging match every time oil is mentioned. Please don't shoot the messenger because you don't like the message. The decision is yours, it's your forum. Cheers Simon
  8. I don't wish to say it again - It's your car, use what you want. I work from data given by OEM's which tells me the recommended oils for each car and do not recommend outside of these as that would be unprofessional and incorrect. Here are the recommendations that I work from for clarification. Nissan, 300 ZX, 300 ZX Turbo (Z31), 1984-1990 Manufacturer: Nissan Motors Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan Drive type: r.w.d. Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc Power output: 230 HP/169 kW at 5200 Rpm Engine VG30ET Petrol, 4-stroke, 6 cilinder, V, 4 valves/cil., Turbo, liquid cooled Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc Capacity: 4 liter Filter capacity: 0.4 liter Use: Normal Change 5000 km/6 months OEM recommendation Above -20 API: SF SAE 15W-50 Above -20 API: SF SAE 10W-30 Above -20 API: SF SAE 10W-40 Above -20 API: SF SAE 10W-50 Below 15 API: SF SAE 5W-30 SAE 5W-30 oils are recommended for use in extremely cold weather conditions only. Under severe operating conditions: change more frequently. Capacity including oil filter and oil cooler. Differential, rear, (4x2) Capacity: 1.8 liter Use: Normal Check 10000 km/6 months OEM recommendation Below 40 API: GL-5 SAE 80W-90 Below 40 API: GL-5 SAE 75W-90 Below 30 API: GL-5 SAE 80W Below 10 API: GL-5 SAE 75W From -10 to 30 API: GL-5 SAE 85W From 0 to 40 API: GL-5 SAE 90 Above 10 API: GL-5 SAE 140 Transaxle, manual Manual Capacity: 1.9 liter Gears forward: 5 Gears reverse: 1 Use: Normal Check 10000 km/6 months OEM recommendation year-round API: GL-4 SAE 80W-90 Transmission, automatic Automatic Capacity: 7 liter Gears forward: 4 Gears reverse: 1 Use: Normal OEM recommendation year-round Dexron IIE - Power steering Capacity: 0.9 liter Use: Normal OEM recommendation year-round Dexron IIE - Hydraulic brakes system Use: Normal Change 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round Brake fluid, DOT 3 - Hydraulic clutch system Use: Normal OEM recommendation year-round Brake fluid, DOT 3 - Cooling system Capacity: 11 liter Use: Normal Change 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round Water with antifreeze (ethylene glycol base) - Nissan, 300 ZX, 300 ZX Twin Turbo (Z32), 1990-1991 Manufacturer: Nissan Motors Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan Drive type: r.w.d. Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc Power output: 282 HP/208 kW at 6400 Rpm Engine VG30DETT Petrol, 4-stroke, 6 cilinder, V, 4 valves/cil., Turbo, liquid cooled Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc Capacity: 3.4 liter Filter capacity: 0.4 liter Use: Normal Change 10000 km/6 months OEM recommendation Above -20 API: SG SAE 10W-30 Above -20 API: SG SAE 10W-40 Above -20 API: SG SAE 10W-50 Above -20 API: SG SAE 15W-40 Above -20 API: SG SAE 15W-50 Below 15 API: SG SAE 5W-30 From -20 to 15 API: SG SAE 10W Below -10 API: SG SAE 5W-20 Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 10W-30 Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 10W-40 Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 10W-50 Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 15W-40 Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 15W-50 Below 15 CCMC G4 SAE 5W-30 From -20 to 15 CCMC G4 SAE 10W Below -10 CCMC G4 SAE 5W-20 SAE 5W-20 is not recommended for sustainded high speed driving. Under severe operating conditions: change every 5000 km or 3 months. Capacity including oil filter and oil cooler. Differential, rear, (4x2) Capacity: 2.1 liter Use: Normal Check 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation Below 40 API: GL-5 SAE 80W-90 Below 40 API: GL-5 SAE 75W-90 Below 30 API: GL-5 SAE 80W Below 10 API: GL-5 SAE 75W From -10 to 30 API: GL-5 SAE 85W From 0 to 40 API: GL-5 SAE 90 Above 10 API: GL-5 SAE 140 Transmission, automatic Automatic Capacity: 8.7 liter Gears forward: 4 Gears reverse: 1 Use: Normal Check 20000 km/12 months OEM recommendation year-round Dexron IIE - Transmission, manual Manual Capacity: 3.1 liter Gears forward: 5 Gears reverse: 1 Use: Normal Check 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round API: GL-4 SAE 75W-90 Power steering Capacity: 1.3 liter Use: Normal Check 20000 km/12 months OEM recommendation year-round Dexron IIE - Capacity of models with HICAS: 2 l. Top up only. Hydraulic brakes/clutch system Use: Normal Check 20000 km/12 months Change 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round Brake fluid, DOT 3 - Grease points/nipples Use: Normal Check 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round Lithium base multipurpose grease NLGI No. 2 Cooling system Capacity: 10 liter Use: Normal Change 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round Water with antifreeze (ethylene glycol base) - Cheers Simon
  9. I never said it was crap. I just said it was not a true synthetic, but hydrocracked. Some engines do call for this viscosity oil, A few BMW M5 engines, the odd Alfa and 1950's V8s and that is about it, I just dont recomend the 10w-60 for the 300zx, neither does your handbook. Cheers Simon.
  10. Mac1 I am sorry you are getting bored. In my post you quoted, I did not tell anyone to use Silkolene, please correct me if I am wrong but I mentioned it amongst other brands and grades to look at? Castrol and Mobil had a big court battle a few years ago, Castrol won the right to call hydrocracked mineral oils synthetic, in the true sense of the word they are not, but they are well within the law to label them synthetic, this goes for any other manufacturer so I doubt you will have any comeback as it is public knowledge. I am also intersted in how the person who had a bad experience with Silkolene (not ours) knows so much about our margins? I feel he could do with some education on this matter as it is not what it seems. The big margins are on mineral oil, these are very cheap to make and the margins are higher once sold on a shop floor compared to a true synthetic as the cost of producing a true synthetic are 6 to 8 times more then a mineral, if you were to sell true synthetics at the same margin as minerals you would never sell any. Oil manufacturers encourage you to use semi and mineral oils because they need changing more often, so you buy more oil making more proffit. I could recomend oils based on this principle as I do supply them, but that would not be very proffesional in my opinion. We do not have a vested interest in any brand of oil, we sell six brands all together and these are not ones we happen to have, but have chosen. This is because of their quality of chemistry and cost to the end user, I am not tied to anyone. I have said it before and I will say it again. They are your cars and it is your money and no body has to listen to what I say, however if asked a question I will answer honestly and factually. Cheers Simon.
  11. The ********* is a hydrocracted mineral oil, the RS 0w-40 is a true synthetic. In my opinion neither are really ideal for your car, the 0w is a little thin when cold and the SAE60 is too thick when hot, I am sure some will disagree but anything from 10w-40 to 10w-50 to 15w-50 is fine. If you want a good true synthetic then I would look at the Silkolene, Motul and Mobil range of oils. Cheers Simon.
  12. These are the recommendations that I recieved: Nissan, 300 ZX, 300 ZX Turbo (Z31), 1984-1990 Manufacturer: Nissan Motors Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan Drive type: r.w.d. Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc Power output: 230 HP/169 kW at 5200 Rpm Engine VG30ET Petrol, 4-stroke, 6 cilinder, V, 4 valves/cil., Turbo, liquid cooled Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc Capacity: 4 liter Filter capacity: 0.4 liter Use: Normal Change 5000 km/6 months OEM recommendation Above -20 API: SF SAE 15W-50 Above -20 API: SF SAE 10W-30 Above -20 API: SF SAE 10W-40 Above -20 API: SF SAE 10W-50 Below 15 API: SF SAE 5W-30 SAE 5W-30 oils are recommended for use in extremely cold weather conditions only. Under severe operating conditions: change more frequently. Capacity including oil filter and oil cooler. Differential, rear, (4x2) Capacity: 1.8 liter Use: Normal Check 10000 km/6 months OEM recommendation Below 40 API: GL-5 SAE 80W-90 Below 40 API: GL-5 SAE 75W-90 Below 30 API: GL-5 SAE 80W Below 10 API: GL-5 SAE 75W From -10 to 30 API: GL-5 SAE 85W From 0 to 40 API: GL-5 SAE 90 Above 10 API: GL-5 SAE 140 Transaxle, manual Manual Capacity: 1.9 liter Gears forward: 5 Gears reverse: 1 Use: Normal Check 10000 km/6 months OEM recommendation year-round API: GL-4 SAE 80W-90 Transmission, automatic Automatic Capacity: 7 liter Gears forward: 4 Gears reverse: 1 Use: Normal OEM recommendation year-round Dexron IIE - Power steering Capacity: 0.9 liter Use: Normal OEM recommendation year-round Dexron IIE - Hydraulic brakes system Use: Normal Change 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round Brake fluid, DOT 3 - Hydraulic clutch system Use: Normal OEM recommendation year-round Brake fluid, DOT 3 - Cooling system Capacity: 11 liter Use: Normal Change 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round Water with antifreeze (ethylene glycol base) - Nissan, 300 ZX, 300 ZX Twin Turbo (Z32), 1990-1991 Manufacturer: Nissan Motors Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan Drive type: r.w.d. Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc Power output: 282 HP/208 kW at 6400 Rpm Engine VG30DETT Petrol, 4-stroke, 6 cilinder, V, 4 valves/cil., Turbo, liquid cooled Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc Capacity: 3.4 liter Filter capacity: 0.4 liter Use: Normal Change 10000 km/6 months OEM recommendation Above -20 API: SG SAE 10W-30 Above -20 API: SG SAE 10W-40 Above -20 API: SG SAE 10W-50 Above -20 API: SG SAE 15W-40 Above -20 API: SG SAE 15W-50 Below 15 API: SG SAE 5W-30 From -20 to 15 API: SG SAE 10W Below -10 API: SG SAE 5W-20 Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 10W-30 Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 10W-40 Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 10W-50 Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 15W-40 Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 15W-50 Below 15 CCMC G4 SAE 5W-30 From -20 to 15 CCMC G4 SAE 10W Below -10 CCMC G4 SAE 5W-20 SAE 5W-20 is not recommended for sustainded high speed driving. Under severe operating conditions: change every 5000 km or 3 months. Capacity including oil filter and oil cooler. Differential, rear, (4x2) Capacity: 2.1 liter Use: Normal Check 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation Below 40 API: GL-5 SAE 80W-90 Below 40 API: GL-5 SAE 75W-90 Below 30 API: GL-5 SAE 80W Below 10 API: GL-5 SAE 75W From -10 to 30 API: GL-5 SAE 85W From 0 to 40 API: GL-5 SAE 90 Above 10 API: GL-5 SAE 140 Transmission, automatic Automatic Capacity: 8.7 liter Gears forward: 4 Gears reverse: 1 Use: Normal Check 20000 km/12 months OEM recommendation year-round Dexron IIE - Transmission, manual Manual Capacity: 3.1 liter Gears forward: 5 Gears reverse: 1 Use: Normal Check 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round API: GL-4 SAE 75W-90 Power steering Capacity: 1.3 liter Use: Normal Check 20000 km/12 months OEM recommendation year-round Dexron IIE - Capacity of models with HICAS: 2 l. Top up only. Hydraulic brakes/clutch system Use: Normal Check 20000 km/12 months Change 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round Brake fluid, DOT 3 - Grease points/nipples Use: Normal Check 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round Lithium base multipurpose grease NLGI No. 2 Cooling system Capacity: 10 liter Use: Normal Change 40000 km/24 months OEM recommendation year-round Water with antifreeze (ethylene glycol base) - Hope this helps, Cheers Simon
  13. Topless, Nothing to worry about, this will not affect the oil in the car, it will need topping up though as your catch tank fills. Cheers Simon.
  14. Kevin, For the engine we would recomend the Silkolene Pro S 10w-50 as you will be pushing excess bhp, this oil is made from pao basestock but also has the advantage of containing ester. For the gearbox we recomend the Silkolene Syn5 75w-90 ester synthetic geal oil suitable for competition boxes and diffs. Tech specs on both of these oil here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm Cheers Simon.
  15. Any one here got any opinions on these plugs good or bad. Cheers Simon
  16. According to my records. 3.4ltr without oil cooler. 4.4ltr with oil cooler. So 2 x 5ltr would see you through two oil changes and some to top up. Have a look in the group by section for special January prices. Cheers Guy.
  17. Kay, If you are experiencing noisy tappets, try the Silkolene Pro S 10w-50, not only is it a good grade for your car, and a top quality oil it is very good at keeping the tappets a little quieter. Tech specs here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm Hope this helps. Cheers Guy.
  18. Magnatec is a modified mineral oil and PRO S is an ester based synthetic, they are truly poles apart. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/TechSpecs/PRO%20S%20-%204%20Wheel.pdf Cheers Simon
  19. The only additives we endorse are fuel ones (octane boosters) as these have their uses and in some engines are essential where high octane fuel cannot be obtained. Cheers Simon
  20. Perhaps worth putting the Chemists view forward here - scary stuff and the reason we neither sell nor recommend these magic additives! Use a decent oil is our advice. General Remarks on Chlorinated Additives. A number of ‘add-on’ additives intended to improve the performance of commercially available automotive lubricants have been marketed in recent years, under such names as ‘Xxtralube ZX-1’, ‘Metol FX-1’, ‘PPL Anti-Friction’ and ‘Activ-8’.All such products share the following characteristics with ‘X-1R Friction Eliminator’:- 1)They all contain chlorinated paraffin ‘exteme pressure’(EP) compounds first used in the 1930s in heavily-loaded industrial gearboxes, and in some automotive transmission applications, mainly hypoid gears. 2)They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures, easily exceeded in all engine, and most transmission applications.This problem was recognised in the 1930s, and chlorinated compounds were never used in transmissions with bronze bearings or gears. No responsible manufacturer ever suggested using them in engines where their increasing activity at high temperatures could lead to piston ring corrosion and bore glazing. (For the same reason, modern ‘hypoid’ additives are not used in engines, even though they are much safer than any chlorinated additive.) 3)X-1R Friction Eliminator and its clones are based upon very outdated technology, which was abandoned by responsible lubricant manufacturers for automotive transmission uses in the 1950s. Chlorinated compounds still find applications in metal working, but their use is on the decline because of health and safety considerations. 4)When burnt, chlorinated paraffins produce corrosive hydrochloric acid, and organo-chlorine compounds including the highly poisonous phosgene gas. Apart from these corrosion and health hazards, with petrol engines the deactivation of exhaust catalysts is also a problem. 5)Unfortunately, these additives give spectacular results in simple EP test machines such as the ‘Falex’. As a marketing ploy, a demonstration of this type looks impressive to those not aquainted with the above facts. Also attractive is the low cost of chlorinated compounds, allowing profits of several thousand percent to be made. Cheers Simon
  21. Z31 4.1 litres, Z32 3.4 litres. Cheers Simon
  22. Use a synthetic 75w-90 that's suitable for LSD's and you can't go wrong. Cheers Simon
  23. Zevans, Is that your RX8? I have one too (have had for 12 months now) and loving it! 5w-30 it is. Fuel Dilution - The Chemists View! If the fuel metering is properly set up fuel dilution is not a problem. Remember, no matter how much turbocharging is used, compression in a petrol engine must always stay below levels that can cause pre-ignition, so the piston rings don’t really have a problem. Compression in the humblest turbo diesel white van is about three times as much as in a McLaren F1 or anything else petrol engined! I actually measure fuel dilution myself in the lab (I don’t just talk about it!) and it is rarely a problem.The one exception is some rally engines with crude ‘anti-lag’ systems which feed fuel to the exhaust side of the turbo impeller to keep it spinning when the throttle is closed. But these are rare, fortunately! John Rowland (Chief R&D Chemist - Silkolene) Cheers Simon
  24. Ok, so Millers recommend 10w-60 for highly stressed race and competition engines but my question is............ How do they square this recommendation with the viscosities mentioned in the lubricants reports I posted in this thread? I assume by their comments that it's not recommended for "road cars"? Cheers Simon
  25. It's truly a shame that a thread which is based on such an important topic has degenerated to the point where people cannot accept or work out the facts, still that's the internet for you! FACT: Yes 10w-60 is thicker than 10w-40 when hot, they are the same when cold. FACT: VISCOSITY - measure of a fluid's resistance to flow. It is ordinarily expressed in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of the fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid. Since viscosity varies inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is determined. With petroleum oils, viscosity is now commonly reported in CENTISTOKES (cSt), measured at either 40°C or 100°C (ASTM Method D445 - Kinematic Viscosity). FACT: VISCOSITY INDEX (V.I.) - the measure of the rate of change of viscosity with temperature. This change is common to all fluids - some more, some less. Heating tends to make them thinner, - cooling, thicker. The higher the V.l., the less the tendency for the viscosity to change. V.l. is determined by formula from the viscosities at 40°C and 100°C in accordance with the ASTM Test Method D567 or D2270. The latter test is required for V.l.'s above 100. High V.l. oils are often preferred for service in which a relatively constant viscosity is desired under conditions of varying temperature. Some hydraulic systems require this property. Paraffinic oils are inherently high in V.l., and the V.l. of any petroleum oil can be increased by the addition of a V.l. improver. Naphthenic oils are inherently low in V.l. and aromatic oils are still lower - often having negative numbers. FACT: SYNTHETIC LUBRICANTS - lube oils possessing a base oil that has been manufactured from chemical constituents or by polymerization of hydrocarbons (olefins) rather than by conventional refining of petroleum. The three most common types of synthetic base oil are: i) Polyalpholefins ii) Organic esters iii) Polyglycols. Synthetic lubricants have several advantages over conventional mineral oils: - excellent low temperature fluidity - low pour point - high natural viscosity index - excellent oxidation stability - high flash, fire, and auto-ignition points - low volatility - non-corrosive and non-toxic Synthetic lubricants have been in use for some time in applications such as jet engine lubrication, Arctic lubricants, and fire resistant hydraulic fluids. These applications tolerate the extremely high cost of synthetics because they are the only products which can do the job. Synthetic lubricants are now beginning to replace conventional petroleum lubricants in some applications. Despite their much higher purchase price synthetics may offer operating advantages that can make them more economical in the long run. (For example, reduced oil consumption, longer oil life, improved fuel economy, and easier starting at low temperatures). Hope this cuts through the general rubbish that's talked about oils! Cheers Simon

Important Information

Terms of Use

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.