walksonland

I still think it was a bad day when they stopped putting a starting handle in the tool box

I'm Still doing my cars with a string and sprit level and I have no problems at 170 and my tyres are all even and equal on wear.

The standard chip is set to run the engine in the 10s under WOT it's built in safety. Unless you know what you are doing and can monitor your own AFR leave it rich.

Ok children I sold my RED boat and RED Land Rover and went out and got myself a nice RED zed. My wife certainly thinks I must be having one of those later midlife episodes. As for its pulling power it really works like a charm on German birds but I was going to fast to take them up. In this country it’s my wallet that get pulled in all directions. Just to put the speed record straight at my first Cadwell park sprint/hillclimb race meeting two thirds of the RED zed look-alike Ferrari thingies were slower than an old bloke in an old RED Jap car. At least I have a nice gear knob to play with and sad to say yes the knob has a nice RED top. Check out the colour and weep http://homepage.ntlworld.com/walksonland/car.JPG

I would take everything that you can back to standard e.g. Is the car fitted with a traction control that works on the fuel control side? Is the fuel pump setup as standard. Is the pump voltage contol system working correctly. Is the fuel return to tank line clear. Is all the wiring harness OK. The answer is there and we all want to know whats up with the little B******.

Quote:- I did enquire about the full 60k service because I'm not sure whether that has happened yet. I decided that can wait until I get down to Ztech again because the guy wanted to charge me £437 just for one of the cam tensioners! You can buy the bearings for the cam belt tensioners for £20 each so you can renew all three for £60

Just had a think are you sure that the plugs are sparking under compression. Even though they spark in open air they may be shorting out in the cylinder. Try some new plugs or use a blowlamp to completely burn them dry then blow them out with dry compressed air.

Like greg said check all the silly things after all that you have checked its likely to be something daft that we all do from time to time. Have you got access to a conzult? If so you can use the manual control of the main signals to turn down the injector duration untill you get it running smooth. Sounds like you would have to go over -50%. This is a great tuning tool

Are you using a ECU that has just been fitted with a chip socket? If so you need to try a known good ECU

Try engine temp sender or its connection. The one screwed into the water pipe at the front of engine with two wires. If the resistance is high the ECU will think that the engine is very cold and inject loads of extra fuel.

On a UK car its 8mm OD on the metal tubes and 8mm ID on the rubber hose. Measure the OD of your metal fuel tubing

Check the connectors on the head light controller under the NS wing Edit Sorry didn't see the second page of posts

Drop your oil out and measure how much is in there. Then refill with the correct measured amount and then check the dipstick. Now test your cars oil pressure with a mechanical test gauge screwed into the sender hole. Then if the pressure is OK replace the sender and see if the pressure is showing correctly on the dash (same as the test gauge).

There should be a number stamped on the shock below the sticker or email Tien sales@tein.co.uk with some pictures. The average cost of service by Tien is £130 per shock. They do not sell service parts.

If you are talking about the two output shafts. Use a soft hammer pull on it with your hand then hit the flange at a outways angle. It is only held in place with a snap ring on the shaft. Got to go Top Gears on.

If you can get some one with a conzult to download the chip .bin file email it to me and I will tell you all the settings it has.

If you want to learn how you can tune your own chip to maximise your engines hard bits. All you need is a chip programmer, chip eraser and a reprogrammable chip. Then loads of time to learn and play. This is the place to start http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/id10.html

I would go with the thicker sheet. On the oil front used engine oil seems to stay on and last a lot longer than new. It stops the rusting just as well. Use wax oil if you want to pay for something to do the same job.

Never run like that myself but others do.

Idle fuelling was altered with AIV removal some cars have problems with emission control test. The dirty fix is to create a small vacuum leak when you go for the MOT.

Ask Ash/JWT/Eric They say yes

AIV is ECU controlled so for a proper removal you need to rechip with an AIV deleted ROM

You will need to practice to get your welder set correctly to do good positional welds on thin metal. The most important thing is that both edges that you are welding together are clean shiny steel so that the wire can keep a continuous good earth. I find pub co2 better than argon/co2 for thin mild steel car work. Where it shows you are going to grind, fill and spray anyway. To make the job last you need to spray some old engine oil on the back (inside) fresh unprotected welds rust like made.

Turbo water feed pipes rust from the inside and leak through pin holes after 15 or so years.

Running at about 550 RWBHP. Three times the price ten times the clutch,