walksonland

The leader gears bolted on as good as gold but you will need it all shimming up, new oilseals and get the front pinion bearing checked for condition. I am going to have to strip and change that bearing when I get my zx back on the road.

Now only available from HorsepowerFreaks they paid for all the extra ones out of the special batch made for a group mostly in USA I think I had the only one in UK.

I still have my 300zx z32 tt with the R230 diff fitted with a Quaife ATB and leader gear set. It has been off the road for the past 6 months after a engine blow and spin through a fence. I cannot fault the ATB and the gears made it go like stink. I intend to rebuild it but up to now I have not had the cash.

I think you should be OK. To be positve take the top off and if it has all the chips in the same locations it will do. One may not have the diagnostic switch in it. That is not a problem.

What years?

That would be OK

You can max out standard injectors with standard turbos so that should answer the turbo question. If I were you I would try another standard ECU. If your car is AT then the ECU needs to be from an AT car. The ECU year type needs to be the same. Going home stay away from high boost.

To burn a chip that will safely run your car and get you home the injector size / latency and the type of air intake (single or dual) is the most important information needed.

Could be the result of several contributing factors depending on how your engine has been modified. Which two cylinders are they and what engine modifications were you running?

Chamber temp to high. What do the pistions tops look like? Are any rings broken or pistons miss shaped or pitted if so you have been knocking.

It is the LSD that makes it hard to turn this is normal.

The Strosek wheels were made special for them and the last time I spoke to Nico at Strosek they had sold all their stock and were unlikely to be reordering any more. If anyone can find another wheel the same size please post it here.

Assuming all your bearings and bushes are in good condition and nothing is bent buckled and knackered. Because of the geometry of the steering and suspension when you change one setting it will change the others that then need resetting. So if you fitted the adjustable top link and did not fit the adjustable front tension rods after resetting the camber to correct for lowering the caster must be incorrect. At the same time if the toe in was not reset that will also be out. To get every setting correct it may need each individual link changing several times. There is an easy way to check that all is correct without wearing your tyres out first. This is how you setup any racecar and it holds true for road driving. Take the temperature of the tyres after driving at the speed and in the conditions you want to set for. Do this in three places across the tread width inside, centre and outsides. The hottest part is doing the most work and will wear out first. When all the setup is correct including tyre pressure and corner weight the temperature will be equal all the way across all the tyres. If you are wearing one edge out you should be able to feel the temperature difference by placing your hand on the tyre.

Yes even higher if your pushing 2 bar

At idle 36.3 PSI with vacuum pipe on and 43.4 with vacuum pipe disconnected. Yes the pressure is increased with the inlet boost pressure.

Rear wheel track rod outer ball joint

Could be your diff

The only thing that normally goes is the bearing in the roller and you can buy a new one of them for 20 quid.

I always leave the gear box on the engine and pull them out together also I just let the prop shaft slide out and lay supported on a stand that way you only need to take half the exhaust off and you don't have to deal with the heavy gear box under the car. To do it this way you need a good high engine lift.

I agree if the sensors not correct the engine will not run well. It could be the pipes or connectors or the fuel regulator or the carbon canister system (which may have been removed this will make it smell).

Dip beam is crap your a zed driver so let the force be with you also you have a fuel system fault so don't mix up the power of the force with sniffing petrol.

As I type this I am half way through fitting a Quaife ATB diff and a leader 4.10 crown wheel and pinion. I believe this is the best setup available for sprint / hill climb racing. Doing it all myself it will take me two or three weeks to get it back on the road after that drop me a PM and I will tell you how well it works.

Use a volt meter and start tracing the live feed at the light fitting then back to the switch and fuse until you find it is live. When you find the last live point you can fix the fault. Most likely to be a connector gone bad.

When you crank the engine on the starter can you hear the pump running? If not try hard wiring it pos and neg to the battery it should then run all the time and the car should start. If it dont run then its a f--ked pump.

£200 that ball of string is worth all the 6d I paid for it