pauliezx

Well it would have been nice to put some photos up of the car but the last thread was closed before i could finish my reply .... I wasn't trying to sell the car in the thread - this was what i was about to post.... Hello mate, i live in Newport, it's quite a well known car but to be honest i probably use the car maybe once or twice a week maximum so you probably wouldn't have seen it around much, friends of mine have pointed out that they've seen a yellow one cruising around though! Nope, it wasn't my intention to try and sell the car in this thread (or on here), i want to get it in autotrader and maybe the local paper here, i just wanted accurate opinions as to what the cars are really worth so that when i do sell it i'm not getting idiots telling me it's not worth what i've got it up for. I bought it originally for around £7000 but that was some 6 years ago or so, at that time there were quite a few on autotrader from anywhere between £5000 to 13,000 so i was surprised to see how low they are at the moment, having said that, there were only three or four for sale. The reason i'm selling it is that i want a 350z I wasn't aware it was against the law to discuss what you think your car is worth

yep, seen that thread, none of those solutions have worked - with the exception of removing the solenoid which i haven't done yet because it's too dark to se what i'm doing properly, was hoping it might be something else that i've missed

Hello All Sorry for repeating this but looking at previous posts my problem may be different, not sure. Basically it's the old chestnut of key won't release out of ignition barrel, the little push button will not push in at all, the key still freely rotates both directions so i can still turn the engine over or turn it off etc. the car is an auto jap 92, i've tried moving the gear selector, it's in park of course but can't free it up by giving it a slight wiggle, steering lock isn't on either, so i really don't know. used to get this occassionally but the key always released after you turned the engine over again or drove somewhere etc. any help greatly appreciated guys :confused:

there are people on here that will know about this, but in the mean time i would suggest talking to Luke at the Z centre, he sells the downpipes and knows a lot about the sensors and how it all works

for what it's worth, i own my own company, and we specialise in car and bike decals, custom stuff etc, i have a pearlescent white 300zx and it has no decals on it, and it never will! my thoughts on your mock up are that the design is not anywhere near good enough to go on the car, the car is the wrong colour for that type of work. the logo is lost and looks like an after thought. if the paint on the car is good and it has nice parts fitted, don't bother with decals, that would be my advice (which is pretty strange for someone who makes a living out of making these things for other people)!! i think you would need a spectacular job doing on the car to even make it worthwhile

lol, thanks for that SR! Jim, what are the PCV's exactly?!

had some suggestions from some of you (andy in particular) that my stalling at standstill prob could be dirty throttle bodies etc. had the car looked at and they were pretty dirty, but also, the exhaust wasn't operating properly...seems to have started choking the car because they're going to shit inside! i never noticed because i've only pottered around in it recently. the car guy i took it to has recommended replacing the exhausts with a mongoose system....anyone know if that's the correct choice?

andy, no, the air con does not stop the engine stalling, so is it a case of just cleaning the throttle bodies etc?

can't really think of anything serious i don't like! considering the money you can pick them up for, probably not much around thats better value... i wish i had more time to spend on the car, pampering it a bit! i don't like the fact that when i do the pearlescent paint job on my car, some fecking clueless woman hits the front end of my car...in fact, it seems like a magnet for twats to leave marks on!

hello andy, yes the rpm does jump when the economy is switched in and out. the car ticks over from cold at just over 1000, so switching on economy, the revs dip to about 1000, i guess when the engine temp gets higher, it probably equates to 750 - 900 ish, so is this the related to the fuel delivery problem?

mine started to do that when i had the speed de-limiter wired in. turns out the de-limiter is not wored in properly and i have to take it to Luke at Z centre to correct it. mine starts off okay with power steering, then a couple of minutes into journey, steering goes stiff, hi-cass light comes on. may be a coincidence but it only happened after the speed device went in

i hope that is the case!!

i wondered what the hell that little squeking noise was in my car! you don't always hear it (only i hear it all the time)! thought it was a bearing at first but it sounds a lot like the aforementioned problem of belt/air conditioner....

thanks for that dev, is it a case of re-newing the throttle bodies and fuel sender then? is it a garage job, or easy to do myself? can you remember how much the parts were?

certainly does sound like very good pricing! you would need to be quite near to gain full advantage though! might come into it's own for those big jobs that need doing from time to time?

it doesn't stall in second, the car stops properly, then it's 50-50 as to whether it stalls when you want to pull away. sometimes you can stop it from happening if you slip it into neutral and just blip the throttle a bit as you change back to drive. as i said, if you just leave the car stationary to idle, it won't stall. only seems to do it if it comes to standstill in "drive", also does it if you stop and try to reverse. once the engine temp reaches half way, it wont stall at all, whatever the gear box is in

i don't think they are mcgard types then, so it's going to be trial and error to get them off! ATS said they would do it for me, but they would have to break them off and possibly damage the wheels....

my trusty z starts brilliantly, you can leave it to tick over no problem, but if i drive away, it will stall when i stop the car, until the engine temp warms up to about half way. This means i have to slip the auto gearbox into neutral every time i come to stop, until it eventually reaches the correct temp. is this easy to put right, or does it have to go to the nissan dealer to solve it??

whats a mcgard nut mark? all i know is that they are not the spinning/key variety, they are the fixed ones, and they came in a box with a "motorsport wheels" logo on it.

cheers for that chaps....probably try a socket first then maybe buy that remover tool if it doesn't work...

bit of a silly one this....have discovered my Z didn't come with the locking wheel nut key, so i have to remove them now with minimal damage! have heard a few ways to do this....has anyone here actually done it successfully?

thanks fellas...local garage it is then!

How much do you chaps pay for servicing? I was quoted around £300 by our nissan dealer here for a full service including all the parts etc. I can get it done cheaper of course using my local mechanics, but i would like a few "nissan" services to get the stamp in the book etc, i feel it will better when i come to sell...unless you guys are going to tell me it means *****cks all, getting the dealer stamp? :confused:

yep, that was kind of my point, that i don't expect the new rubber to cure it, hence the car cover! what was the product you used John?

i had (have) this problem too, once cured it by putting an air line down all the roof drainage holes and making sure they were clear. Didn't permanently solve it though cos i think at the end of the day, the targa roofs are not really up to the job of repelling constant british downpours! have had the new rubber ordered too and don't fancy smearing any of the aforementioned products over the rubbers. The only 100% cure i can put forward (that i have found), unfortunately, is to invest in a car cover!