Mooch

Thanks AndrewG. They are the arch liners you mention. What are the vents for?

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I'll take some photos soon.

Hi I had a new nose put on my 1990 300zx NA after an accident and the guys who did the job presented me with two panels that they took off and which wouldn't fit back in with the new aftermarket nose. The panels are marked RH and LH and they have a sort of scoop and vent to both sides of the panel. The are thin black plastic, maybe a foot by a foot and a half. Can anyone please tell me where they go or point me to a picture. I would like to put a stock nose back on some time and I would like to put the panels back where they are supposed to go. Thanks, Mooch

Sorry, the valve in the first box apparently got stuck CLOSED, not open.

Hi My original autobox in my 1990 NA burnt out in June and I replaced it with a recon box from a Skyline, put in by a crowd called Transmission Centre here in South Africa. That box lasted about 30km and then there was a bang, the car sort of hopped or tripped and I lost reverse and then the whole box. The garage who did the work first tried to blame me for hitting something, then eventually conceded that one of the valves had got stuck open in the box. They replaced the guts of the box again (Skyline parts again) but this time put in two valves and that effort lasted about 200km. There was a failure to change up to second even in redline, a horrible grinding/whining noise and again the hop/shudder/trip while on the way back to the garage. Anyone had this experience of multiple gearbox failures (3 so far, with the car hardly on the road in 6 months)? What is causing it? Although the garage is honouring their warranties my taxi and towing costs are piling up....

Are the rear pads for the NA and TT the same?

What would be preferable for my 300zx NA: New Nissan 300zx TT brakes or New Nissan 350Z brakes? I can't get NA Nissan brakes because NA's were never on sale in South Africa.

Well, I vacuumed around for about an hour but no success. Turned the engine over a few revs with the plug out and vacuumed again but still no joy. So I gave up in time honoured fashion and started the engine and revved it a bit after a warmup idle. There were no strange sound effects so I am hoping the piece has blown out past the exhaust valves. I haven't taken it for a drive yet. I am assuming I would have heard something untoward if the piece is still there?

Are the Brembo 350z brakes the same as the GTR's?

Thanks for all the replies. I thought of the vacuum cleaner & pipe solution at the time so I am glad to see that I am on the right track. I have bought a metre of clear fishtank tube and will connect it to the vacuum cleaner. Maybe stick a piece of stocking over the vacuum cleaner end of the tube to catch the offending bit. Thanks again.

Small (3mm) thin piece of insulator from spark plug went down the hole into the chamber. Any ideas for getting it out? What are the odds of a cockup if I just fire up and see if it goes out with the exhaust? Thanks.

StellaZ - I think the problem is that our boot vents are no longer there. They are grey plastic things with rubber flaps that stick right up into the bootspace. At the bottom they connect to a slot in the metal of the bodywork.

Leaking targas is a known weakness of the Zed. It doesn't relate to the door as far as I know. Water builds up in the channel between the front of the targa and the roof part that it rests up against. I agree that cleaning the drainage hole and tube is probably the best way to go. I replaced the rubbers, tried vaseline, etc., all to no avail.

I see a slot running vertically down at the back corner. No sign of any rubber flap. Perhaps that is the problem. Where should the flap be? What shape is it and where does it fulcrum? Has anyone got a photo so I can cut a new one?

How would I check for injector problems? Would it be quickest to take it to Nissan and get them to put Consult on it?

Thank Slick Pete - will have another look now.

Getting back to the O2 sensors, I have now checked my connectors with the safety pin method (which works quite well, was impressed). I get the necessary cycling on the left connector but on the right connector I get a sustained .16 (or .22 at another time) V reading. Not .04 to .07 cycling like the other one. Does this mean the sensor or connector is cooked?

JefTT in another thread mentioned rubber flaps covering boot vents. Where are these vents? I have panels with slots in each side rear plastic panel, but no flaps.

Engine VG30 858816

I believe the heater will also be affected. The climate control computer will think that the car is permanently driving in the Antarctic (-86 degrees Celcius) and run the defroster and heater accordingly.

Oh, well, the sensor isn't on the bumper. Could it have been bolted onto the elongate black bumber support (which I no longer have)?

Thanks Silverbullet. I did have a look at my old bumper but didn't see the sensor. I'll look again and also ask the mechanic who changed the bumper out. In your picture is it the red connector that would connect to the sensor? I presume I can get a new one loose from Nissan and fit it to my new bumper?

Ever since someone took my bumper off I have had no aircon because the ambient temp reads -86. I had a look underneath today. All I see is a metal "bottle" which seems to have a tube running into the top of it and, dangling off the tube, a thin connector with two smalls sockets. All this is just to the right of the Air Filter Box. I can't find the ambient sensor, and it's starting to get hot here in South Africa.

Well I took the middle and right rear panels off and all I see is the metal outer body work and aerial installation. No boot vents that I can make out. Am I missing something between the body metal and the panels? There is an insert in the side panel which has some slots. Is that the vent? IF so, should it have a rubber shutter over it?

Hi Jeff Do the boot vents pass through the outside bodywork? Where exactly are they? In the back or in the sides? Cheers.