RomChip200

What did fail exactly concerning the hub centric ring ? I would say it' simply missing. YOu have Wolfrace shark wheel on the front. What are the specs ? 8.5x18" ? ET30 ? I don't understand why you have spacers with stock brakes and if your wheel is 8.5x18" ET30

People having 18” wolfrace sharks (or deep dish wheels), have you had some troubles to clear some bigger brake rotors ? The trouble may come from the deep spokes. Typically the Dan DB 315mm kit using OEM calipers. This kit clears under my stock wheels with 15mm spacers.

Someone could tell me why this part would be for RHD car only ? Is it a problem with the overall shape of the vents at the back ? Could someone post some big size pics of the front and back of the double DIN cluster ?

Could you post some internet links about worlwide sellers of double DIN surrounding replacing the OEM one ?

I would like some pics of this IC fitted also. Without the bumper. I want to check the fitting points and how deep it is. You have this kit ?

Has someone already fitted this kit : http://www.carparts.com.hk/images/z32-l.jpg I would like some pics (w/ and w/o bumper) to check the clearance and fitting with the JDM 99 front fascia.

I'm trying to organize some returns for both. I'm private, they have bussiness accounts in freight companies, return cost are terribly huge ! I opened some litigations on Paypal, I cannot tell the sellers ease my life :cry:

That's it.

A lot of work finally ! And verty time consuming ! These kits are probably made in Asia in batchs.

The seller for the bumper definitively screwed me up.

Side skirts : I'm waiting for the answer from the seller, it cannot be the ones for the 300zx. Mistake. When you say "Modify", does it cover the fact you need to cut the bumper reinforcements to put back closed together the edges ?? I cannot believe that.

Story : I bought this bumper which doesn't fit from this seller !! : http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=010&item=200008480629 Look : I bought these side skirts which don't fit from this seller !! : http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=005&item=150018297075 Look : I suppose I got what I paid for .... But these sellers are going to hear from me ! Does this one fit correctly on the edges in contact with the wings ? Please tell me : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-300zx-Front-Fibreglass-Bumper-shogun_W0QQitemZ190003734487

I did the same than Dave. I put some longer hoses with some DIY alloy boost jets. I will cut the hoses a bit each time I want to replace the boost jets. With a center hole of 1.5mm, I got 11 psi this WE. I'm going to try 1.0mm now to reach 14-15 psi as wanted.

I got -1.05 G (SS Gtech meter) from my new brake discs (Brembo plain rotors) and Axxis ultimate pads, before the ABS kicked in.

I know it's a personal appreciation but what are your front and rear settings ? The springs are Eibach. I just tried this WE : 1 & 1, it's very confortable, like OEM. 5 & 5 is harsh, bumpy and unbearable.

Original post : http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=2575&highlight=Superchips First, JWT is probably the best choice compared to Superchips. I don't want to hear about Superchips, they are useless. In the post , the guy stated JW got some source code from Nissan and modified it. Hmmm, probably not true, very difficult to believe if you know how car manufacturers work. JWT90.bin is not a modified source code, the code is not modified to get a better throttle response, the maps are, which is not source code, you should know what is source code. Have a look into JWT90.bin and you will find some modified maps (fuel and ign), that's true, based on 47P10 and you will find that also : CUSTOM PROGRAMED BY C. STEPPLER J. WOLF P.O.P. JIM WOLF RACING EL CAJON,CA. No other modification than the maps and rev limit, boost limit (...) which is not source code again, but code constants ... Have a look to the fuel map and you will notice the closed loop area shrank ... why ... better throttle response in mid rev range .... no ... but because many Z owners have some dead lambda sensors, or how to override potential problems .... Owners of JWT chips reported better fuel consumption on cruise, logic with dead sensors and closed loop area shrunk. I hope the 300zx bin provided by JWT is not this one or has changed over the years. I would have wait for deeper changes ... in source code ....

Power supply wires. 1) Direct from battery 2) Bigger gauge

Reading this post, I have some ways for you. I got the problem and I found several factors : the ballasts themselves the bulbs the wiring the fuses First, how did you wire your ballasts (directly from the battery or from the headlight wires themselves ) ? For sure, wiring from the bat directly will give you better results. Originally I powered the ballasts from the OEM wires of each headlight. It works fine but you need to "sandpaper" the two 15A fuses , the contacts must be perfect, not corroded (that's very important). I also notice it depends on the brand of the fuse itself, then the best it to upgrade the fuses for 25A 30A versions (it will hurt nothing if your wiring is well made). I don't aspeak about continuous current drawn but current peak ! Secondly, some ballasts are sensitive to voltage drops (when you switch on other stuff). I had the right ballast which switched off as soon as I switched on the main lights (fuse factor). I also noticed the headlight wires are not the same gauge between left en right (stupid Nissan). Then, for some secure reasons (having a ballast switching off while driving is disappointing), I wired the ballasts direclty from the battery. I think this is better but sometimes, the problem still occured. Then I suspected the bulb itself, and effectively some bulbs are deffective (but lights fine) in a way the ballast enters in a safe mode and switchs off the power. Some ballasts are more or less sensitive to this. I have several bulbs in stock and I did a mix which works fine now. You will also notice sometimes the light output has not exactly the same color between driver and passenger side. That may be due to the 300zx reflectors themselves or the bulbs (I assume both bulbs are 6000K, not 5000 and 6000, obviously) You have to check the offset of the bulb glass in the socket, that's very important. If your 2 bulbs have a different offset (which makes the diffraction/reflection different), one side will be more yellowish. Again the solution, mix the bulbs to find a good pair. Sometimes HID stuff is not so easy .... (1 month of investigation) Ask some details if you want.

For bushings, that's a bit complicated. I used some universal bumper stops from Honda (the form factor is essential) bought on http://www.suspension.com. They are cheap (nothing compared to Nissan OEM). I cut them to the right length, diameters and holes were fine. The boots (dust boots) are some universal ones from Energy suspension also. Spring seats are some polyurethane ones with the right diameters according to the springs tops Finally I got the same shape with my kit than the original shock. Part #s bump stops : 16.9101 16.9102 Boots and spring seats : http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/sboots.html

I bought one Z fuel pump on Ebay, it problably comes from an US TT version (2+0) as the strainer (bottom-end filter) is not attached to the pump itself but to a longer hose. On the 2+2 TT, the strainer + pump is straight. I just re-used the fuel pump unit itself. I had some difficulties to put back the pump in place in the tank. I think the bottom-end filter hits the plastic compartment (reserve) at the bottom of the tank. I finally managed to push it inside but by forcing a bit, and I hope the bottom-end filter is still attached or the pump body is still attached to the rubber bracket. Is there any experience about this ? Is there a special angle or trick to put it back inside the tank ? Are you obliged to force it also ?

They look like the Tokico Illumina I'm fitting on my Z at the moment with some Eibach springs. 5 settings: 1 softest - 5 firmer. Mine are white paint though. They are very good. But it depends on yours, are they very used or not ? .... I replace all the bushings with some polyurethane versions also (bumper stop and so on).

Nissan uses double flaring (this is the more robust and secure). I made some lines myself and you need the appropriate tool for this. M10x1mm thread, that's true. 11mm REAL brake spanner, otherwise your will crush the fitting. This kit is what you need : http://cgi.ebay.com/SAE-METRIC-DOUBLE-FLARE-BRAKE-LINE-TOOL-SET_W0QQitemZ4450830818QQcategoryZ303QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem You make the double flaring in 2 steps.

I'm fitting some Tokico Illumina with some universal bumper stops and universal boots (Energy suspension stuff). OEM bumper stop is 45mm in length and included in the boot as you know. My universal and stronger polyurethane bumper stops are 30mm. Any risk ? Even with a 30mm bumper stop, the wheel cannot hit the wheel arch, I checked but I'm asking what could be the others effects. I change all the rubber parts for some polyurethane versions, including springs seats, bushings between the cup ....

Hopefully, I finally got it ! You know what ? The previous f*cking owner punched the rod end on the ball joint socket I didn't manage to remove. Unbelievable ! That's even not necessary. I was obliged to file these marks in the small space available. Boths arms are now replaced and I performed a new alignment of the hicas (3mm stroke on each side).

What I did ! I even filed more the rod end to get more grip. I crushed it.