dasla300zxtt

ill knock one up and if you like just let me know, and ill do one for them... anything special like that give me a shout....

took me too long to write it :)

you can argue with the offer they make and give a valuation for the car,, then they will offer you a settlement figure, now when they have done this and agreed a figure its the time to ask how much for you to buy the vehicle back it should be about 18% of the offer price. some will and some insurance companies wont... now I have a good rear end lol rear panel rear qtrs. if you want second hand ones ..ok hope this helps... head up she is repairable as long as the chassis rails are straight. well they can be pulled but if you need advice just ask. its a wide boy baby :)

adjusted front arch today ready to start other side :biggrin: its a wide boy baby :biggrin:

hmm the H pipe section is to induce a smoother running engine . as to equalize the Exhaust ram pressure of each side off the exhaust system, its not needed and possible reduces the back pressure slightly, for pure performance a none H section exhaust would be better. my opinion, and hope it helps its a wide boy baby :biggrin:

hi. I look at it this way, if you spend some time on yours, do the heads,(skim and maybe pressure test) new geskets, and then whilst the engine is out you can change all the old pipes and check all the metal ones, new water pump, new belt, and once you have her back together you will know exactly what you have, check turbo's before putting her back in. Better to get to know your own than trust someone else's. just a opinion :) its a wide boy manual :)

Im not fussy.But a night in Brussels sounds like fun... but my wide body tt manual will be ready in march... all made in metal,, :) a one-off baby .. then lump and underneath to do.

no that sounds like fun :) i would

ill be there but going incognito .:)... finished sill transplants ( both inner sills and outer sills plus twin impact beams welded in between :) was a rusty one ) on my tt manual, now doing body mods getting her ready for next year :) Mark if your doing any group buys please let me know.

take the crank out to be sure and check for ovality, Out-of-round deviations of a journal should be maximum 0.00004”. the crank may have chatter marks on it so check for flat spots on the crank. (depends on how long and hard it was knocking. Best be safe than sorry :) also when fitting the bearings check the crush height, this should be around 1.5-2.5” ,(the height the shell sit's over the bearing). Hi performance bearing's will have a greater crush height. This is a vital measurment, so the replacement bearings leave the correct gap (eccentricity) too small a gap and the bearing will overheat. too larger gap and the bearing will knock,, Hope this helps.... All though just putting the new shell's in may work at first, but if the crank is not right it will be for a short time only. soooo BE A NIGHT AND GET IT RIGHT lol as Mike the Night say's

thats the idea :) no probs, :thumbup1: :yinyang:

try another MAF meter. Most prabably the problem, before paying out for anything else. :yinyang: if you need to borrow one im not far away,

looks good paddy. very similar to an old project i was doin many moons ago.. looks good in white

if you were nearer to stoke id do it for you :)

or it might be zed world lol

i think if my memory serves me right the z centre change the turbo's with the engine's in. but i found its easier taking the engine out.. and do a good serive on it and change all the hoses whilst its out. and what ever else you fancy. timing belt ect

hi nezz is it base and laquer or solid colour? for base and laquer= for whole car 2 ltrs of base colour will give you 4 with thinners that should be plenty, unless your doing a colour change of cause. you will need about 3 litrs of laguer and a litre of hardner a gallon of thinners.. if your doing a solid colour then take of the base unit from this... hope that helps...

http://s1178.photobucket.com/albums/x377/fallen-angel1/?action=view&current=manualenginechecksuburu.jpg

you can do a check on the classic scoobvs but them only,, 22b's In order to perform diagnostic (and ECU resets) you will need to connect some wires together under your steering column. Note, the following procedure only works for Classic shape Impreza’s, not for Newage. 1.Make sure your ignition is OFF 2.Connect the Black ‘Read Memory’ connectors together as illustrated above. 3.When the above are connected you are in diagnostics mode. 4.Turn your ignition ON and ‘read’ the ECU code(s) being reported according to the following instructions. Note, you may here relays clicking and your fan starting and stopping - this is normal when in diagnostics mode. 5.In Diagnostic Mode – No Fault is indicated by the Check Engine Light continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset). 6.The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds). The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed. For Example; 1.3 second pulse (10) 0.2 second pause 1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23) (Code 23 — MAF Sensor) Or Multiple Codes 1.3 second pulse (10) 0.2 second pause 1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23) 1.8 second pause (this means NEW code) 1.3 second pulse (10) 0.2 second pause 0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 11) 0.2 second pause .2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 12) (Codes 23 and 12, MAF Sensor and Starter Circuit) hope this helps..

before fitting the plastic centre locators check that both surfaces are perfectly flat and that there are no imperfections on contact surfaces,,,( hub/spacers/wheels)if this is ok and you still have a problem try another pair of spacers,,

before spending money try another knock sensor :)

firstly check :or Eliminate all external influences, such as an incorrect or dirty air filter, loose or tracked intake duct, dirty fuel filter, low fuel pressure, PVC system, or low engine vacuum that would indicate an external leak or an internal engine component. once this has been done then the problem could be.. the ECM this will retard ignition up to 10 degress after picking up a knock sensor signel, this will not be cured by taking of the earth but may need th ecm replacing,,, this is an inherent problem,,, check with diagnostics and if a knock signle is present,, try clearing it and run the car,, if it picks up another signle then it could be engine vibrations causing the knock signle to be sent,,, this may need the ecm to be changed... thus retarding the ignition.. HOPE THIS HELPS..

ive seen that arch design somewhere before paddy300zx,, ???? it looks well mate.. how's the ride on hydraulics,? bumpy or what lol

well if you need any help or want it done give me a shout ,,,

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee24/GRIMM090/alarmschem3.jpg try again