Anders UK

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/ Not sure if its been posted before. I know in the MR2 Turbo community Apexi is the King. Andy

Jack, I have an entire prop and almost brand new centre bearing for sale in the "for sale" section. £70!

Dont want to start a price war but I have a recently recon'd prop with an almost brand new centre bearing for £90. Andy anders@ntlworld.com

No, not you bud. But I still have the prop and centre bearing if you want it. Its at my house!

Bud, Can you call me on 07973 720987 and I'll provide you with my address. I've been trying to reply to your email but my ISP has a problem with your email address for some reason. Cheers, Andy

Rod, Whether the speed sensor is also shagged or not if the diagnostic throws up an error code for the rev. sensor then its either bust or disconnected. I have a brand new one still in the packing if you need it - never had the chance to fit it on mine before the accident. Andy

Fair point. I was talking about high perfromance cars in general and not just the Z. Its a shame they haven't perfected iridium plugs for the Z! 11B's it is then...

I tend to agree with both of you to a point. Sure, the iridiums are not as far away from the head as the 11B's but they are still a more superior plug. I'm an old fan of copper plugs, basically because copper is a better conductor than platinum and in theory provide a "stronger" spark. The problem is that copper plugs degrade very quickly on turbo charged cars and struggle under high boost conditions if the gap isn't perfect, and I mean perfect. I've messed around with plugs on a number of turbo'd cars and found copper plugs (when PERFECTLY gapped) to provide a "cleaner" burn and generally smoother through the rev range. Also, I averaged an extra 2-3 mpg on copper plugs. Are they worth the hassle? Only if you have the patience to play around with different gaps and are prepared to change them every 5-6k. Other than that platinum are a lot stonger and forgiving when it comes to tuning and raising the ol' boost, but they're not perfect. Iridiums. IMO, these are the dogs... Conductivity like copper, stronger that plats and able to hold a superior spark under the most severe conditions (heat, obscene boost, you name it). I have never heard a bad word about them. Only good. I know of many people who noticed marked improvements over plats, particularly in high boost applications, curing high-boost misfires and so on. Those of you with stock cars - stick with plats. Go high boost - try the iridiums and you'll never turn back. Andy

I agree with Topless. I had this conversation with NGK many times during the good 'ol days (when I had my Z that is). An NGK tech. rep. told me that the 11C is the correct plug for the UK TTZ. Its a little shorter if I can remember and is more biased towards "improved emissions" than the 11B. Nissan in the US commissioned NGK to come up with a "better performance" plug, or as the story goes, a plug that reduces the chance of detonation, hence the 11B. If I can remember, its a little longer and thus further away from the head. 11's on their own are DEFINITELY N/A plugs no matter where you are on the planet. 11Bs are now considered the "best" plug, particularly for modified Z's, which is where Nissan were coming from. They expected owners to increase the HP out of their cars! Iridium plugs are better still...oh, and FFS, never put Bosch plugs in your Z as I had nothing but problems with them. Andy

This on the other hand is impressive... http://www.procom.co.nz/f40/ Check out the spec!

LOL. Never. You'll only get quality freebies from a box of cornflakes.

One very important factor has been omitted here - supply and demand. 4-5 years ago there were very few Z'ds. They were hard to come by and were 10K plus. Then came the import boom! Also, considering that they were first released in 89 making them upto 14 years old (most of them being at least 10 years old) and you have a base market price that reflects that.... MK IV Supras are going the same way. Its just that they are 3-4 years behind. Wait and see!

Zimon Although I totally agree with your explaination, I think Andy was also trying to expain the resulting force of impact. In simple terms, this is how I understand it....god 'elp me. If a car travelling at 50mph hits a stationary car (same model of car, equal mass etc) we can safely say the the result will be a "50mph" impact. If 2 cars both travelling at 50mph (same cars again) hit head on then the result is a "200mph" as oposed to a "100mph" impact. Please correct me is this is wrong.. Andy

Sedgeworth, I have an almost new centre bearing (2 months old) for an an auto TT if you are interested. I also have the prop shaft which was recon'd a year earlier which you can also have. Let me know if you are interested. Cheers, Andy Anders@ntlworld.com

Courtesy Nissan sell a full 60K service kit which includes all the belts, thermostat, water pump, tensioner, cam seals etc. Its a must IMO. Andy

FFS, do not take it to Interpro! Trust me on this one

Step 1: Replace radiator cap Step 2: Get the coolant checked for signs of HG problems Sounds to me like the rad was dodgy so step 3 is likely to be - replace rad. Andy

yep, and say you are a TT.net member and you receive a further discount!

Pure Z porn!

Don't bother with aftermarket O2 sensors. The originals are cheap anyway.

.

I'll help you out bud. I live in Poole which is 20 min down the road. No need to worry about fuel. Cheers, Andy 07973 720987

Roy, Don't mess around with replacing 1 of them. The shift 1/2 and LP solenoids are fixed in the same pack anyway(about $110 from Courtesy Nissan -and 4-5 day delivery). Also replace the faulty one. "Line pressure solenoid seen to be working OK" Thats what I was told. Its not worth leaving it if you have to drain the fluid and drop the bellypan. Trust me! These degrade and fail over time. Andy

Fear not.... Its .com not .co.jp

Agreed. They are talking out of their %^$£. I had consult tests done by 2 different Nissan dealers when I had my imported TT Z. It plugs into the diagnostic port. I can't remember exactly but its somewhere under the drivers console near where the fuses are. Andy