Rich666

Definitely... the only problem is I removed them as I was getting goose honk, think I might have found somewhere still stocking the eliminator kit but has anyone had any luck recirculating BOVs? the ones I had could be used as recircs too, but I never tried it?

Haha, well the good thing is the engine and drivetrain all came out and were prepared for storage (admittedly it wasn't supposed to be this long!)... main issue is remembering what goes where now! I have a garage full of parts that I'd already accumulated too, so in a nice position! The one thing that didn't survive was my Greddy dump valves - but I'm getting older now, so recircs can go back on (got them in the garage too!)

Hope you get sorted... I'm in the early stages of re-commissioning mine and I am dreading the day I come to try and start it - engine's not run in 15 years! (Just to add, I'm not just planning on fitting a battery and hoping for the best!)

I gave the shell a bit of a cleanup over the weekend, the weather wasn't ideal for full polish and wax... but it did remind me of something odd: I've tried to photograph it, but just can't get the camera to catch it - my rear screen, in certain lights or if there's a hard frost, has 300zx across the top of it - I'm assuming that it had a sticker, which has etched the glass rather than it ever being original? To be honest, I quite like it - very subtle! Which leads me onto the main question... I've now removed some window stickers (getgreddy for those of you with long memories!!) which appear to have also etched the glass! I've completely removed them with a blade, used isopropyl to get rid of the adhesive but you can still see where the letters were ? They will be covered up to some extent by forum stickers - but has anyone had any luck with polishing the glass - I've got a DA - but from googling, it's going to need something pretty aggressive, and I really don't want to ruin the glass!

Had a thought, you can do a basic check of codes manually - the link below has instructions, but I wouldn't run the engine-running checks until you know what's causing the unusual sounds... those asterisked are the ones that will throw a check engine light: http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html It's been that long since I have done any work on a 300, I totally forgot!

Haha good! Def get the codes read before fitting the MAF and trying to start it again though - it wouldn't cause all of those symptoms, in fact the car will run ok with the MAF disconnected, jut wont rev far. Fingers crossed for you!

Welcome... shame about the circumstances of your first post! First thing, stop trying to run it... not worth risking more damage; you'll need to get it diagnosed with proper diagnostics, rather than generic OBD - if your post you location, you might be lucky and find someone that can plug it in for you before going to the expense of getting it to a specialist. Good luck!

Happy Birthday! Just been catching up on what's been going on the past few years... see you've sold yours now, was always my fave car on here!

Hey Friday... I've just re=subbed too: planning on finishing the re-shell with Kirbz' old Silver Zed I never finished... so one of the jobs will be to refurb your old 'Wilcox Hunter' wheels I bought off you - which I still really like the look of!

Cheers, will look into those.. and thanks for the heads up on the trim panel... will head there next! Didn't realise Por15 had got so bad... will crack on treating the rust and primer it for now I guess... hopefully get the shell in the air soon and will be able to look at the suspension mounts properly ?

I'm at the early stages of getting the Zed back on the road... unfortunately the car's not been on the road for 16 years, and has been outside for the majority of that so rust is an issue - but not as much as I expected if I'm honest! Externally it's in pretty good shape, and the interior's looking good too... but under the bonnet and the rear sills are a different matter! So under the bonnet, there's surface rust everywhere... I've been all round with a hammer and it's all solid, so I'm thinking of getting it all off, probably mechanically, then chemically and just going with POR15... black engine bay isn't my first choice but guess I can always re-visit that in the future (engine rebuild will come first!). Any thoughts on whether that's reasonable, looking at the 2 photos below? I've has a borescope down the rails from the front and also the sills from inside and the front 90% is good (I'll have to find my card reader and share some pics) but the rear targa drain has caused some severe rust on the outer sill, and a couple of inches of the inner sill... I think the 'saving grace' was that the car's been parked on a slope so the water's obviously been draining fairly well... I've got a mig welder, but it's years since I've done any welding... so weighing up options at the moment (and reading RedWine's post on mig-wleding.co.uk)... I'm in the Lake District so if I get it done professionally, I'm pretty well placed to get it anywere in the North/ borders if anyone has any recomendations? Had a sit in it for the first time in ages and it's still a great place to be... although the observant among you will notice that the radio trim panel is missing... I swear I've got one somewhere(!) but did anyone ever get round to reproducing these, or is it just crazy prices to import still? Any advice welcome... even if it's don't bother... but I'll probably ignore you anyway ? Rich

I remember your name from many years ago... I’m trying to get myself motivated to sort my Zed: Kirbz’s old silver one... needs a bit of welding now, and I sold the engine... and my donor car got ‘lost’ by a garage! Maybe see you at a meet one day - think you were pretty local, I used to be in Chester, up in Lakes now.

Just cancel it - legally, they can only charge you for days on cover plus an admin fee (which will be a lot less than £100) - there's a chance they'll review their quote to try and keep the custom, but if not you've got nothing to lose!

You won't regret it - brave to get the tools out tho!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It would be much easier to keep everything in one thread - seems you're having a chain of ongoing problems & not everyone will have seen your other threads... thought you had code 21 last night? Have you tried another PTU? Didn't you mention on another thread that you'd turned the CAS and each injector clicked? I'd suggest, detailing exactly what happened in what order on one thread - much easier to help that way. Good luck with it - I know how frustrating it gets!! Rich