JeffTT

WTF!! this is exactly why no goverment in this country will understand the needs and concerns of the country as a whole, United Kingdom?? if they had their way it would be United London!! Ridiculous !! Jeff http://www.northlondonshire.co.uk/where-is-north-londonshire.html

Almost impossible to say, have seen scores of zeds with 150k miles on the clock still going strong and no engine or turbo issues to speak of, also have seen low mileage ones that have let go, some the fault of the owner some not. I would say that there is no time or mileage indicators of when a unit will fail as there are too many variables to take in to account such as driving style, service level etc. no to one left hand drive zed we deal with had 275k miles on the clock before the engine was pulled, original turbo`s and one clutch replacement in that time, but it was serviced to hell but also driven hard (not thrashed), but all autobarn may be thats the key, maybe town traffic is the killer Jeff TT

Defo fluid level, when cold it must just be on the threshold of bringing the light on, once the fluid is moving and warms up it expands a little hence the light goes off, just needs a top up. Jeff TT

UK zeds have a cooler and pump fitted to the diffs, one sensor is oil level warning (light on dashboard) the other sensor is the temp sensor that switches the pump on/off. However in our experience they rarely or more likely never operate, so will not be a problem to leave as is. Jeff TT

No this will not be the cause of your misfire. Jeff

O2 sensor, may be it mistakingly was left unplugged or it could be the sensor has failed and disconnecting is often a better static figure than a corrupted one, only way to know is on a ConZult. Jeff TT

No to the sprocket, will check for the seal and update you. Jeff

z31 boss and z32 Non turbo boss are the same. Jeff TT

Given the nuts had been so over tightened I would advise changing the studs now as the threads will have been streched, see enough broken studs especially rears to now this is a real problem...seriously change them. Jeff TT

The front pulley ( ancillary belts ) and the sprocket (cambelt) need removing, the later can be a real ball ache to remove if it has not been off before. If it will not come off drill the front face close to the keyway and it will then split with a hammer and chisel, of course buy a new one before this! The seal is very similar in shape and size to the cam end seals and is removed in the same way, take a small sharp screwdriver and ease it out making sure not to mark the crank, lever between the outer edge of the seal and the oil pump casing, when reinstalling the new one spray WD40 or similiar over the crank etc and slide it in to place, use a flat edge over it and tap in equally all round Hope that helps Jeff TT

No worries, whilst you wait service £30 + vat includes full assessment and necessary adjustments. Jeff TT

Injector pulse Too high IACV-AAC/V Too high A/F Alpha Touch low for a standard chip, may be a different map to standard Closed throttle is greyed out should be active CLOSED Temp sensor code needs resetting too as it may be old, if the code returns after resetting then this MUST be addressed before any more setting up can be done. Also the low base idle will effect the screen shot figures, the IACV-AAC/V should be at 15% when set up correctly and up to temp., the injector pulse should be around 2.2 mSEC the A/F Alpha for a standard set up is 109% an after market eprom 95% to 100% but given you have mis-values elsewhere when those are corrected the Alpha should settle. Check the throttle balance, to ensure both butterflies are opening at the same time, also check the ignition timing with a gun to see what the actual value is as opposed to the figure the ecu is looking for, if it is retarded this would account for you not able to get a correct base idle setting. Possible causes of bad figures are boost/ air leaks poor responding 02 sensors, bad ignition timing, bad cambelt timing, bad throttle balance, spark plug type and gap settings. Jeff TT

Sorry to hear that, any noise from the autobox is terminal. Jeff TT

Here is a bit of info on what is going on with your fire, it could well be the exact issue is the fire is shutting down for safety reasons as there is a fault. Do not attempt to repair your gas fire yourself. ODS stands for “Oxygen Depletion Sensor" a term which accurately describes this valve type. The valve itself is similar in many ways to the two valve types above...with one exception. The pilot tube is a precision mechanism that creates a very stable flame as long as the room air contains the proper amount of oxygen. If the oxygen level in the room air drops even slightly, the pilot becomes unstable and lifts off of the thermocouple (see diagram) causing the gas valve and appliance to cease operation. This type of valve is very reliable, and there have been very few failures of this system - even with tens of millions in use worldwide. Normal Operation: 20.9 Percent Oxygen - The flame touches the tip of the Thermocouple, generating the necessary millivoltage needed to hold the gas valve open. Oxygen Level Drops: 19 Percent Oxygen - The flame begins to lift off the precision Pilot Burner. The Thermocouple begins to cool. Safety Shutdown: 18 Percent Oxygen - The unstable pilot flame goes out, causing the Thermocouple to cool. The Thermocouple stops generating the electricity needed to hold the spring loaded solenoid valve open. The valve shuts the ventfree gas heater down and cannot be started until the oxygen level in the room returns to normal Given that it is illegal to work on any gas appliance unless qualified its simply not worth the risk to life for an unqualified person to attempt any repair on your fire. Do not attempt to repair your gas fire yourself. Call in an appropriate registered gas safe engineer, follow the link below for more information on this and where to find a local engineer. My advise is watch the video in the link...very powerful message. http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/learn/true_stories.aspx Jeff TT

The spinning key is caused by the small plastic cam lock on the end of the key barrel, this parts triggers the mechanical door lock mechanism for drivers side and also the electrical connection for the passenger side, the drivers side is totally mechanical so cannot be locked from the pasenger side. The plastic cam lock comes as part of the door barrel, expect to pay around £60 for this from Nissan, alternatively add a central locking alarm with door solenoid. Jeff TT

Here is the original comparison thread. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=132513&highlight=cambelts Quality not a question here, valid teeth registration and spacing is, also the use of Nissan suggested change periods does not apply to NON Nissan belts, out of interest have you checked a Gates belt against a genuine Nissan one? Jeff TT

This is what to buy. Jeff TT

Possibly you may have more than one noise source, firstly I would look at the air con compressor, there is a small pulley adjuster, this pulley bearing can get noisy as can the air con compressor try taking the belt off and running the engine. The lifters can sometimes be noisy, try adding a lifter additive into the engine oil, such as "Wynns Lifter treatment" can work wonders. Jeff TT

Jeff TT

Do you still have the EGR still fitted? if so remove the vacuum pipe and seal it off, see if that cures the issue. Jeff TT

Jeff TT

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:oops: Jeff TT

Saf was good to meet you today, so sorry the news was not better, but it was best you knew the full extend of problems with your zed. The top end valve train noise was very bad as was the fact the near side turbo was seized, but the nail in the coffin as it were was the no 6 cylinder been so low on compression (50 psi) and was also full of oil at that. Remember also your engine wiring loom is complete toast and will need changing with the engine. Sometimes you have to take it on the chin and dig into your pockets (or dads maybe??) but having the correct info is important. Good luck with whatever you decide. Jeff TT

No this is not right, there is an issue somewhere, the brake lines,calipers, abs system and the master cyliner hold a surprisingly small amount of fluid, bleeding the brakes on a zed is no different than any other car of its type and age. I would hazzard a guess that the replacement master cylinder is to blame, most likely drawing air in from the rear seal, so as you try to bleed more and more air enters the system. The fact that you got the four wheel calipers bled could be a red herring as now they are air free the pressure on the cylinder has raised now. A very common problem with the master cylinders is seal flip where cause by pushing the caliper pistons back when changing pads without opening a bleed nipple. Also there can be a problem where the brake pedal free play does not allow the cylinder to return completely, this however tends to cause a different issue but even so it demonstrates why using unprooven cyliders can be a gamble. Try pumping the pedal whilst some one watches the master cylinder resevoir, if little bubbles rise through the fluid you know the unit is goosed. Jeff TT