rory

I'm in Munich, Germany. Maybe we all just left the country?? London would be 'my area' though, since I guess I've spent more time there than anywhere else in the world.

This seems to have stopped working. The recentish upgrade perhaps? It would be useful (to me at least) if we could have this back.

Sounds good. Just remember, if you want to import it tax free then you'll have to have owned it for at least six months in Japan.

I've just paid using PayPal. Real name: Rory McClelland Username: rory Transaction id: 9P982119CJ345173N Internal window stickers preferred. Cheers.

Should say "it wouldn't play up to the extent it was undrivable ..." Sorry - can't type this early in the morning :confused:

I had exactly the same problem. Mine was fine driving in the rain but if left to stand on the drive way during heavy rain then it would play up for the next day or two. It would play up to the extend that it was undrivable but it was noticably less lively after heavy rain. I did a bit of research using the garden hose and found that the problem was that the nose panel doesn't seal well enough to prevent water dripping onto the filter. I believe that this is not a failing of the nose panel. Looking at the original airbox it is designed so that it doesn't matter if it gets wet from above. Therefore I don't think the nose panel was ever designed to be totally water tight. I solved the problem using thin sheet plastic. I actualy got mine from the spines of A4 and B5 files. Using zip ties and the bolts for securing the A'pex-i filter I engineered a cover that sits above the air-filter but below the nose panel. It's hard to explain without pictures, but I worked out that water was getting in at both the top and the bottom edge of the nose panel. Water entering at the bottom (where it meets the bumper) would gradually drip straight onto the top of the filter. Water entering at the top edge (where is meets the bonnet) would drip onto the piping above the MAF, run underneath and down the the underside of the airfiler. I used two sheets of plastic, one from an A4 notebook, one from a B5 notebook ensuring that any water coming through the panel could not get onto the filter. In addition, I used the spay feature of the hose to direct water in through the front of the bumper to simulate heavy rain whilst driving. I noticed that some water was making it's way around the original water shield and onto the filter. I used another A4 notebook cover to extend the original shield curving it upwards to further protect the filter. After restarting the ECU needed about a week to settle down. I expect I've seriously altered the air-flow around the filter. Once settled though even in the heavest of rain it all seems good! It does seem to have altered the induction sound slightly, but not in a bad way. I know that pictures would be beneficial here so I'll try to get some taken for you all.

I've had similar problems - don't know why but logging on and off of web messenger ( http://webmessenger.msn.com/ ) cures the problem, you can then log back on with the normal software. Give it a try! Rory

I had a similar problem that Jeff at Zedworld discovered to be a bad connection to the crank angle sensor (CAS). As you look at the engine it's on the front on the cam shaft furthest to the right. Give the black connector a wiggle whilst the engine is running (careful of all moving parts) and see if anything happens. Just touching the connector on mine caused the engine to stall. If this turns out to be the problem remove the upper right hand boost pipe, disconnect the plug and give it a good clean. You never know - might be a cheap fix! Rory

Clicking the handbrake up one notch will put it into sports mode. However it's not intended to be used in this way - the adjustable suspension on UK Zeds is fully automatic. It will switch to sports mode above a certain speed to improve handling. Clicking the handbrake up once notch is a good way of testing it though.

A Corsa probably will have much sharper brakes. It's simple because, like most 'normal cars' they have much larger vacuum assistance than the Zed has. Large vacuum assistance gives a very sharp but quite a non-linear response. The Zed (like most proper sports cars) has less assistance. This means slightly more pedal effort but much more progressive brake control. Make sure your brakes are properly bled but you never will, and never want to approach Corsa brakes in terms of 'sharpness'. Actually, the Nissan engineers may have been too conservative with the brake feel because a larger vacuum assist was added to the very late 99 models.

It reminds me of spot the difference games we used to play as kids - only they used to tell us how many to look for!

It depends how the speed conversion is working - but there is potential for such problems. If I were you, I'd pull the speed convertor out again and see if the gear change pattern reverts to normal. If not, you've at least eliminated it.

It would be a good if you'd made significant modifcations that would result in more top end power at the expense of less bottom end. For example, large turbos, high lift cams, enlarged throttle bodies - then the gear ratios available to you would better match the output of the engine. Effectively, if you made the swap, you'd have a close-ratio box, similar to those found on high output na cars where it's important to maintain high engine speed as you go through the gears. - Think of Honda Vtecs. If you haven't done anything this significant you're better off staying with the TT diff. It's already matched from the factory to best suit the torque curve of the TT engine. That's the technical anwser from a performance point of view, from simple driver enjoyment it might be another issue altogether! Also, consider your driving. If you do lots of high speed stuff then you'd definitely be better of with the TT diff. If you do slower speed stuff with lots of acceleration then maybe go for the NA one. As a final point, I think it'd be fair to say that switching diffs will hurt your fuel economeny, too.

I'm not sure about that argument. The hold button on an automatic stops the gearbox from using first gear to allow for really gentle acceleration in icy conditions. Equivalent to pulling-off in second in a manual. The power button makes very little differnce on light throttle, and like you say, on full throttle it comes on in anycase. I notice the difference when using about half throttle where it causes the revs to run much higher before shifting in the next gear. For example, with the power switch off, and accelerating from a standstill using about half throttle the gearbox will change up at about 4000 rpm. With the power switch on it will hold onto the gear until about 5500 rpm for the same amount of throttle. Sometimes you want to be able to use higher engine speeds without having to floor the throttle - this is what it's useful for.

cruise control, starting?