Jase M

I worked for nissan for 8 years and the micra bubble rots in exactly the same place, doesn't seem to be a reason rest of the car fine. Maybe they use thinner not so well cover metal here as its not load bearing. odd!!

Cheers guys, will check that out, just need a few parts, dont love it like the 32 but shes too good to break up if i can get the bits of course, jase

Hi everyone, As well as my Z32 I have an old:wheelchair:, well actually its the same age as the Z32, Z31:wheelchair:. I've never seen any on here as we seem to all have the 32 but I want a few bits and pieces for my 31. Firstly, anyone got any bits and secondly where can a look?:confused1: and don't say Ebay cause there was two on there breaking, one was the earlier shape and the other the bloke ripped me off by taking my money and not sending me the parts:hang: jase

Thanks guys, not bothered about removing viscous coupling for power just wondered about increased cooling. Will probs just get the rad and put in an auto box cooler. In reply to PUMAGT - Margate SA, I wish!! No, Margate on the SE coast of UK, can't miss it, it has the highest number of Scumbags per square inch than any other town on the south coast!! Whats Margate SA like? Jase

Hi everyone Has anyone fitted the bigger rad and electric fan combo thats on Ebay for £169??? Was looking at it thinking it looks quite good especially as our cars need more cooling. Have many people removed their viscous coupling and replaced it with an electric fan and has anyone noticed diffrences or experienced any probs? Mines an auto so what cooler have people used to replace standard Rad for auto box cooler?? Jase

Hi, My subscription must be due for renewal soon, anyone in the management :wack: know when?? Regards Jase

Hi Team, Got some new braided flexible oil feed pipes but they require a banjo bolt in each end. The people that supplied them state that they need to know what threads are in the Turbo and oil outlet to be able to supply them. I have a standard 1989 engine with standard Garrett Turbos. I thought that they would be metric both ends but apparently cause Garrett are American they could be A/F or Imperial etc. Any one got any idea:headvswal Jase

Sorry I meant "see the end seals"

Hi Mate, no you don't take rack off as it connected to crossmember, you do need to support the weight of engine from the top and put car on axle stands. If I remeber correctly you will have to disconnect rack at U/J that goes to coloumn to give you a bit of drop. Do you intend to drop enough to give a bit of clearance or do you want to take member out completely? I have done this job by just dropping it enough and wasn't really satified that I could see enough of it to make sure it was home enough not to have leaks. And after a while it did!! I would take member either completly out or drop quite away so you can seal the end seals sit properly and pan goes straight up and not at an angle. jase

I've got one and I noticed the temp rise because it doesn't turn the water pump so fast. In fact when giving it some stick would chuck some water out.Put old pulley on no probs. On a car that suffers from overheating problems the last thing you need is something that makes it hotter. You can get a water pump pulley to match the crank pulley and it turns at the correct speed but I understand these are about £70-80. A lot of money just to get it to all turn at the right speed for not any noticable power, well not that I noticed anyway. I'm going to get an original pulley, my old one is damaged so I can't put it back on. unless anyone knows where I can get a cheap ally water pump pulley. Why are they not the right size in the first place?

Thanks guys, its a Jap spec but has an uprated (ally) underdrive pulley which is smaller than original so probs need to get the matching water pump pulley. I've got to say I like my air con so the air con rad will stay.Sorry die hard HP fans! Legarth, I'm interested in what you said about the water channel castings, What do mean? got any pics or direction on what to do with them? Jase

Hi Team, Well, my engine is out and I'm stripping to rebuild. While its out though what could I do to improve the cooling of both coolant and oil? Can you get a bigger rad, or high flow water pump? Some cheap ideas would be good as I'm not made of money,:wack: but I want to make sure I don't have to take the Bast**d out again!:headvswal look forward to your suggestions Jase

Hi Team, I've a 1990 TT and I've just stripped the engine. My question is the plug was missing from the knock sensor so I've repaired the wires and just put a single small "lucar" connector. I say single because although 2 wires come from the top the black wire folds up and is taped in against itself. Is this right or should 2 wires go to the sensor? If it has just one wire which side does it goto as you look at the sensor? Any ideas? regards, Jase

I second Jimmer on the Pulsar. When I worked for Nissan these were as bad as Zeds for costing afortune to maintain. I remeber a guy buying one from auction and thought he'd got a bargain brought in for a service and check over £3K later it was reasonable. You can't polish a Turd!!!

Don't put that headgasket seal stuff in, all it does is gum up and restrict the flow of coolant in an engine that already struggles to stay cool. I think your mechanic, good guy or not, should at least diagnose the problem. I run a small workshop in my spare time and recently took in a BMW with running problems, my diagnostic equipment gave me a number of codes and I ended up changing water temp and coils, it ran better but did not put Mil light out. I could not find the problem and could not spend anymore time on it so I took to BMW. :rant::rant:I only charged the guy for the parts, how could I charge him labour when I never cured the problem! I think you should try and negotiate with him.:headvswal If that fails tell him you are the son of a mafia boss who is not happy with his little boy being had over and is as you speak tucking ahorses head into his bed!:rofl::rofl::rofl: