annihilate

Hi mate, No not currently. Don't really have the time so would rather just sell it off cheaply. It is on Ebay starting at £2800. If someone got it for that, and then went down the route of a new bumper, they could get a new 99 spec bumper fitted and still not have spent £4000. Will just have to wait and see what happens. If it doesn't sell, then maybe might do something. Cheers

I can only find this one, not sure if it's the one you're after though. http://www.websure.co.uk/car/300zxretrim.htm

Hi everyone, Stupidly, I managed to drive up my driveway and got a bit too close to the house, and hit the front bumper on the doorstep. Pictures below in the attachments. The bumper sheared through the bolt on the driver side where it attaches to the wing. I managed to push the bumper back in but it's not really held in with anything where it joins to the wing. I was planning on cleaning it this weekend and putting it up for sale. However, now that I have damaged the bumper, I'm not sure if I should just sell it as it is and reduce the price, or get it repaired, or get a new bumper, and then sell. My preferred choice is to sell it as it is. I reckon a new bumper will be needed so this would give the new buyer the choice on what bumper to go for. Any advice on the sort of price I should be putting this up for as it is would be great. Or is it likely that nobody's going to buy it unless I get it sorted first? Cheers Colin

Hi everyone, I need some help with my suspension. It has suddenly started squeaking from the driver side whenever the car is moving. If you have the bonnet up and push down on the right hand side, it will also squeak, so I think this rules out it being the bonnet latches. A couple of weeks ago it had 2 new front steering rack tie rods put on. The company had also ordered in some Ikeya Formula upper arms, which they fitted, but took off again as the camber was completely out with them on and couldn't be adjusted, so they said they cleaned up my existing upper arms, got some new bearings for them and fitted them again. I am very confused though, as I thought I already had SPL adjustable upper camber arms, and adjustable lower tension rods. Are the front steering rack tie rods the same thing as lower tension rods? I have taken a picture of what I think is the upper arms, only because it looks very similar to the adjustable upper arms pictures on Smithy's place. Could it be that I now have adjustable upper arms but not adjustable tension rods, and this is causing an issue? I really don't know much about suspension and what part is what. If any one can help it would be much appreciated, as if I already had these adjustable parts, I want to know why the garage told me I needed all these new parts. Cheers Colin

Hi Dan, Does your router have the option of only allowing access from pre specified MAC addresses? If so, you may have this setting turned on, in which case you need to add the MAC address of the laptop to the allowed addresses. Other than that, I would say its an encryption issue, and as Rat2611 has suggested, I would disable the encryption just to rule out if that is the issue. Cheers Colin

Hi mate, Sounds like it may have been me, but don't remember any body flashing. Must have been half asleep. Probably would have noticed if you were in the ZX though. I've seen 1 in just under a year. :)

Nice one with the parking space! I park about 15 minutes walk from Reigate in a residential road. Saves money, get a bit of exercise every day, added to the fact that there is no way my car would get into the multi storey car park.

Congratulations. What company you working for in Reigate, only because I work in Reigate as well?

Cheers everyone. Will take it back to where I got it fitted and just ask them to either bend the piping to fit, or make up a new bit of piping. Hopefully shouldn't cost too much.

Hi everyone, My car has failed the MOT due to the following reason. The same failure also on the offside front. The car has the big brake kit from Smithy fitted with the Goodridge braided hoses. I have taken a couple of pictures. I am presuming that the hose previously passed through the hole indicated by the red arrow in the first picture. With the calipers moved further away now, it looks like the pipe doesn't reach to that routing point anymore, so it hasn't gone through it. Is this correct, or is it possible for it to go through that point, or do I need to get some new brake piping from the caliper that's longer so that it will reach to the routing point? Any advice much appreciated. Cheers Colin

Think I'm going to have to go with red Slicktop :D

Like this mate: (but without any blank spaces in the bits [img ]http://www.linktoimage/image.jpg[ /img]

Have to agree, the wheels are stunning. Not a fan of the rear of the car, but the front is good. If I'm not mistaken, that's the same front bumper as mine. :cool:

Also in the everyday crew. I didn't pay all that money for the car and insurance to leave it sitting in the drive :cool:

Hi mate, that was me :cool:

The drivers side has 2 wires on it, so I guess I would need just the 2 wire one for the passenger side. Maybe I'll order both to be on the safe side.

One of these? http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=12304&criteria=door%20lock&doy=12m8 Would I need the 2 wire or 5 wire one for the passenger side? Cheers

Have just finished on the car. Passenger side has had WD40 sprayed on it. Has made no difference at all. The lock just doesn't move far enough when you use the central locking. Driver side stopped working again this morning, so used WD40 on that side as well. Again it made no difference. However, I have fixed it by adjusting the rod that comes with the Clifford actuator that they installed. Where this joins on near the lock, I undid the screw, moved the rod along a couple of millimetres and then tightened up. Locks perfectly now :) Could I get one of these actuators from Maplins and fit it on the passenger side or would that not work?

Sounds about right to me. If the controller is set to OFF, you should just get normal boost, which if I remember correctly can go up to about 9 to 9.5 psi. I thought the unit of measurement on the AVC-R was kg/cm², and 1 kg/cm² equates to 14.22 psi. And so 0.61 kg/cm² equates to 8.67 psi. Pretty close to standard boost, which is correct if you haven't had the car chipped yet. I wish my car would do the same when set to OFF. :(

No I haven't had them retrimmed. Funny thing is, have just gone out to the car and the drivers side is now locking! Tried it several times in a row and the door was locked each time. Not sure how long that will last for. As suggested though, will take the door cards off tomorrow and get some WD40 sprayed on. Would be awesome if that fixes it, as it's quiet annoying having to remember to lean over and lock the passenger door before I get out the car.

Hi mate, this is an example of one of the door motors. I presume they are standard ones. The passenger side one I fitted a couple of months ago, brought second hand from someone on here after my existing one made strange noises. However, since the central locking wasn't working at the time, I couldn't test it. The driver one is also recently fitted by the previous owner, again a second hand unit. Are the actual motors adjustable, or do you mean something else? The alarm fitter had a look at the passenger door motor a couple of months back when he got the central locking working again, and said that the motor wasn't adjustable and that the one fitted was weak and a new one should fix the problem. The driver one I'm not really sure why it's suddenly stopped working today, because it doesn't look like it is moving the lock any less than it always has done when it worked. Might just get two brand new ones, and hope that it fixes it. How much would you be looking for for the 2 you have? Thanks Colin

Hi My passenger side door has not locked for a while now with the central locking. The central locking I am controlling from the alarm key fob. You can see the door lock move inside the car when you press the lock button, but it does not move enough to lock the door. You have to push it in fully by hand to lock it. My drivers side door today has started doing the same thing. Again, the door lock is moving but just not quite enough, and again I have to push the lock in myself, but literally on the drivers side it is about 1mm that I push it in, then close the door and it will be locked. Is this just a case of the door motors being old and weakened over time, so they don't pull the lock enough anymore? Or could it be anything to do with the alarm and the motor that they have to put on the drivers side for the central locking to work? Thanks Colin

Thanks Lymon. That will be good to know for the future, as I don't need it for my gauges anymore, as I have been in contact with Prosport who have confirmed that they are supposed to turn off when you crank the engine. So I actually have wired them ok already, which is surprising for me! Thanks again Colin

I know a bit. What's the problem?

Hi Does anybody know of a wire I can splice into that has 12v when the ignition is turned to the accessory 1 position, ie when the clock illuminates up, and keeps the 12v even whilst the engine cranks over. Everything I have found so far does not keep 12v whilst the engine cranks over. Thanks Colin