stenorth

They have rotted at some point though as you stated that you've had the sills done - which is kind of my point. Thats a good price and a very nice car. (bump) It's nice to see you've spent the time and money to restore it which if your after a bargain is the perfect thing to look for if you just want to enjoy a car opposed to get involved with it. The car is only as good as the treatment its received and the money spent on it in terms of maintenance. I intend to have another zed - they where forward thinking and advanced for their time, but are of their time, in terms of materials and are still flawed in bits of the design but i guess thats why i love them, gives it character like kiera knightly have nothing up front or that nigella woman been just a little bit creepy!

If you assume that all cars will have at least one minor engine/tx fault and somewhere minor rust or accident damage you'll be about right! The best you can do is avoid the ones that have had major accidents and/or have trouble that stops you using it. The one or two that genuinely have nothing wrong with them are extremely rare and would be priced accordingly! Good luck though! I'd say the best is to look for a well maintained shell, as the mechanical defects are part of the fun of the zed! I've had three zeds so far and each time been caught out with a duff body. Get them up on a ramp would be my one bit of advice!

My favorite is charlie broomfield 26 litre tank engine SD1 Saw it at Mallory Park. More torque on tick off than a standard zed!!!!

Welcome to the club! Try a few because there are a number of dogs dinners about. I've found 2+2 is more stable at really high speeds 120+ mph but the 2 seater, especially the slick tops to be much more of a sports car to drive. Currently got a slick top that i enjoyed driving until work got in the way. If you find that the 2 seater is to you're liking i will be selling mine soon. Brief breakdown: Uk are all 2+2 with targa Jap comes in 2+2, 2 seater with targa, 2 seater slicktop, convertible Manuals seems to have less problems - requires aftermarket clutch with raised boost. Jap automatics have a habit of melting the internal electrics with a aftermarket oil cooler. Engines are normally solid mechanically, electrical and ancilaries cause most of the problems associated with them. Rust is mostly found in the rear arches, the usual - bubbles are bad etc. All interiors on zeds are hideous. The later mark you get the better. 1995 (autumn) onwards had better intake, fuel rail and injectors - makes upgrades cheaper. No hydralic hicas, which is the most elaborate pointless device a car has ever had. early cars have foam spoliers that soak water up a treat - more rust here.

Sorry but sundays make me grumpy

Woop!! Really glad for you mate! Yep that's too much advance, and with the ECU ramping up for the variable valve timing that probably further advanced the timing. Retarding the timing will be a good fix for the moment. The good news is it won't be damaging to your engine as you caught it early and sorted it. The noise is piston rattle because the combustion event is happening before the piston has reached TDC. You should feel the engine has better power than before. What setup do you have on the car engine wise? Also, if you not sure get someone to check the timing against the ecu timing to make sure that the timing doesn't shoot off again!

It's the crank case pressure from blow by gases of combustion that causes the pressure rise, the PCV valves relief it back into the intake. If one where to jam closed the pressure would escape through the weakest point, which would most likely be the dipstick. I's assume if there was enough oil in the sump, it would act like a straw as the pressure drops rapidly, especially if the engine is tired and running higher boost the blow by gas would be greater, so yeh potentially.

That above splits the ball joint or you could use a tuning fork lol! Once that's out of the wheel hub should seperate from the hicas arm It looks like a kodak film canister in metal, the lip of it sits proud of the hub that holds it, you need to grind this effectively so there's nothing to stop you from drifting it out towards the wheel. Be careful not to damage the hub though, you should be able to grind down to a point where the lid of the film canister peels up and in on its self. Heat it up and whack it a couple of times and out it falls, easy lol, as long as you use the mapp gas otherwise cold drifting is a PITA! Hope that answers everything! Ste

If it's not something stupid like a loose bolt or a panel resonating, i would suggest work through the detonation section on here: http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=42&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=190 Even if you don't find the cause straight away, you've already proved that you'll be able to sort like problems like you mentioned so always a good thing! If you get any more information, post it up! :)

By the sound of it the left hand O2 sensor might be gone, but this as far as i understand it only affects fuelling at idle and light throttle meaning it'd wouldn't affect fuelling on WOT, as this would be a standard map. IIRC best way to check a O2 sensor is hold the engine at 2000rpm and watch the O2 sensor, its voltage (numbers you've quoted) should flick back and forth 5 times in ten seconds. A small movement in magnitude means the o2 sensor is not responding properly. Yep, see here for the test to diagose if its NG: http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=129&design=default&total=190

I am interested in it. The zed may not be fully working by then but i could always RR my works car lol! Ended up buying my old bosses company car a 330d for a work car in the end.

Welcome Welcome!! :)

Might be an idea to data log the car on a run after proving that. Post the data from the graphs and see if there are any clue from that.

http://www.blazt.biz/products/images/datascandatadisplay.JPG Is that what you see fella? The far left middle row shows your timing as the ecu reads it from the cas sensor, you need to check with a timing light through the rev range that the timing on the computer and car match to prove they're working together.

Not hard to get but i think it is a little expensive. It does work well though. Conzult is from a dutch company DTA motorsports, it's sold in the uk by Dan Zaat for about £250 i think i paid. It may be unnecessary though as i know a number of people use datascan quite successfully! Going to have a read on it for half hour to make sure i know what your looking at and what its options are. I'm not sure who on here as it though otherwise could ask them.