flikz

Where are the fuses located (fingers crossed).. I had a feeling that I may have needed to re-set something after the new box went in (similar to an ECU re-set)..?? Thanks for the quick reply :hyper: Brian. (flikz)

Guys, swapped our my duff autobox a few weeks ago.. Swaped for another Auto-box and Torque Converter from a low mileage 90' model However the car does not accelerate anywhere near as hard as it used to.. previously .. I just needed to tap the accelerator and wow..!! Re-checked the fluid level a few days ago and a top-up did make the box change gear better now seems more like the normal gear changing (before top up this was over 1-2 seconds from selecting D to feeling anything at the wheels) Once the car gets going the power is there but not on launch.. (can't even spin the wheels... if you can beleive this!!) Any Ideas.. (oh also brand new strainer, gasket done before install..) cheerz B. (flikz)

BAZ, great insight.. Definatley series one box.. New Shaft (to think about) Oil cooler upgrade... (no brainer)... New clutches and plates (most likley will see condition when removed most likley plates though) Line Pressure.. most likley will get the valve block re-done/tuned/adjusted by a specialist.. I know when I'm beat therr.. :rofl: "Shift at Will" SAWv2 (read my "wanted" thread ther is a video of it in action).. I am defo getting this in April and is the main rerason why I want to beef up an auto box... One of the many great features of the set-up is you can control line preasures per gear.. (unlike the ALC) either using the new ATCU pre-loaded MAP (brain supplied) or by adding you own parameters as the box allows for this..) A couple of guys on this forum have this set-up (AndyGP..?) To answer your Q. Quavey... the SAWv2 system can be set "Manual" or "Auto" (using the original Nissan set-up or two other modes; Comfort and Sport) at any time even with your foot fuilly to the floor on the accelerator.. On manual setting you simply shift up/down using the F1 style paddles supplied and you fit onto the steering wheel.. press both paddles together to switch back to auto at any time as well you can set the ECU to start in Manual or Auto mode when you turn the ignition key.. the options are terrific.. (you can download the instruction manual form the website) As I said at the top of this thread ... this is the perfect middle ground for me given the silly miles I do in my Manual Beemer.. I'm not saying it is for everyone or anything near to driving a real manual.. just what will suite me.. Any more advice on uprating my autobx is appreciated... :cool: were on a roll now.. Might even make a pickture/video diary of the upgrade job.. (deleteing the fook ups obviously) flikz

Great... :nana2: Now were getting somewhere.. I am a more than able mechenic.. my original question still remains.. what is "uprated" in an uprated gearbox.. Just look at what we can do to the engine for goodness sake and there are more than a few guys who enjoy to DIY. Come on bound to be a few guys that have attempted this before and not just left the "transmission specialist" to supply "rejuvinated trannies" keeping his his "black art" to himself (and his bank balance) :p :p Now any transmission specialist out ther reading this "please don't be offended" honest question.. honest answers... :cool: if anyone knows... share the wealth.. :p Thanks for your input MTL.. :hyper: cheerz flikz

OK Granted... complex and not really DIY servicable.. .. But.. (and there always is) ..What is "uprated".. in an "uprated" or "fast road" autobox.. is it everything out and all new in..?? or new bearings, clutches, valves and higher line pressure..? As usual.. any advice & parting of the "knowledge" would be great.. :D flikz

:cool: :cool: The beemer is a company car... auto is'nt an option.. I have serioisly considered a manual conversion.. but the middle ground of "shift at will" seems a good idea.. and the couple of forum owners who have this set-up give great reviews.. I don't thrash the zed (yet) but I wanted to know what would be involved in uprating an auto box so when I do install a "S.A.W." set-up the the gear change would be as "crisp" as possible..

Anyone? :cool:

Having probs with my current autobox.. (gears slipping).. I am having the oil & filter swapped out to see if this helps .. I have bought a back-up auto box this weekend as it was priced too good to miss.. (just in case) My Question is ... having read about an uprated (or Fast Road) autobox.. What would be involved in improving the spare box I have... time, effort components, costs etc.. I have set my mind on buying the SAWv2 "shift at will" system for they auto rather than converting to manuall.. as basically I spend 20+hrs a week in my manual beemer and "auto" at the weekend is a novel change... but i still want some control as and when... any comments advice is appreciated.. flikz

A tad dissapointed that not many went :( was hoping to meet up and poss talk "car" but as Stu said it was bolllock freezing!! ah well.. next time then in the better weather.. ;) flikz

Top Bloke :) the 1st list ref. is exactly what I'm after.. Inverter that's the word.. just could not remember what the wee box was called.. Thanks M8 I will place an order right now.. flikz

Thanks M8.. :) Had a good look on E-bay USA last night.. just tried again... nothing came up not even a full set for the Zed listed.. anyone know where I could source locally..?? or what the converter voltage value is..?? B

Took the dash apart to find out why my Dials would not light up indiglo.. The small square block that the dials connect to is fooked.. :( looks as if it has overheated and went "pop" (large bulge in the plastic housing) Is trhis a common issue ... ?? only been on car a month or so.. tried tapping the dials straight to 12v ... with no joy... the module must convert volage up (to ??V).. can replacements be sourced.. or does anyone know what voltage the dials run at..?? and i can try to source a converter.. cheers Brian (flikz)

brakedust300 were your wheels 8J width.. so do you thing I could get away with 245 wide on the 18" 8J (8") wheel.. P.S.. you going to the Crail meet next week.. seeing as your just down th road. :p

Thanks for the update speedemon.. I will price up th Toyo's.. not sure about them though.. would prefer Pirelli or Michelin ... I heard they are grerat for grip but are very soft compound and wear quickly.. what you think..? That said though... even 5k on the tyres, would take a couple of years for the car... given the mileage I do (and I intend to swap back to my deep-disch in winter.. My 17's have F1's all round.. B

I am real easy about which tyres to use.. for all the mileage they will do between April and October.. then they will be back off and the more robust wheels will be back on for the winter.. I was looking 245/40/18's just to fiill the rear acrches.. would 245/35 be a better option..? Maybe use Pirelli P Zero, Michelin Pilots or Continental Contact Sport2... I have used all these in the past on my Beemers.. B.

Just bought a bright and shiney set of chrome 18's which I will use as summer wheels and keep my deep-dish 17's for the winter.. They came with 225/35/18 tyres on 8J Rims.. not the widest rim I know but the look real good.. :p Question... what is the widest tyre I can fit on the rear.. bit of a culture shock when I compare them to my 265's Could I fit 245's..?? cheerz B. flikz

I have a Blitz ECU.. Branded "Blitz Access" on the case as well as a bunch of Japanese text. came fitted with the car... The guy I bought her from also gave me the "stock" ECU, spare set of tubs (I think he was hell bent on blowing the ones fitted just to swap them out..) :p Running 14psi boost.. on standard injectors.. (555's to come) and the CATS still in place.. but man it can pull like a train... :p The car is a 92 TT Auto... I find the throttle real sensative... the slightest travel on the pedal and the gear-box wants to drop down the gears and shoot off.. ... I put this down to the ECU set up as my previous TT auto was much more sedate with the gears.. flikz.

had a look ... and there is plenty of bolt thread showing with the wheel on.. I bought a new 19mm chrome set of nuts this week specially for the new wheels as the old crappy 21's were a b**ch to get off and in fitting the wheels today I saw that I would havd had no chance of using them anyways.. I'll take your advice though and stick with the 6mm spacer.. just to keep standard offset.. cheerz flikz

If i loosen the nuts say 1/2 turn the wheel is free to rotate fully.. So I recon 6mm would do the job.. may even go for 10mm and bring the rim further in as I have just replaced my deep-dish on 265's with a set of chrome 18's on 225's and they do look like they sit further under the arch.. but they do look real nice.. I will re-fit the 17's on 265's in the winter I bought them from Karl (karl300zx) a few weeks ago.. suprised to have the probs as he had these on his Zed.. I will give him a shout maybe he has some spacers.. :p thanks for clearing this up gruntpa64. (just needed re-assurance) ET41.. ids this a Ford off-set. ??

Bought a set of wheels from a member a few weeks ago.. Just went to fit them this afternoon and they rub against my front caliper.. only just.. Read the offset.. it reads ET41.. ??? on the inside Should this be ET35 (??) So do I need a 5mm+ spacer.. cheerz flikz

Thanks Ed, Much appreciated.. Look forward to the meet even more now.. :p I would like a session on the Conzult.. just to get a sure footing of what condition my new Zed is actually in... I read the threads and many people seem to fret over everything... I will worry when I have the facts.. or obvious symptoms start to appear.. :p :p all the best B.

Guys, Anyone Local have a Conzult... Any chance of bringing it to the meet ..?? Not had my zed long ... getting to know the set-up better each week... (indication by the money I'm spending on it).. :p I have a few niggles that I'm sure the Conzullt would confirm/clear up.. (lazy O2 sensor etc.) Just a though.. or If there are conzult owners local.. possible you could PM me and i could meet up with you seperatley.. (beer tokens offered) ;) all the best.. flikz

I'll be there, :) :) B (flikz)

Just read a bit more... the "PIN 7" = "Tacho" (is the rev counter) so I will use "Pin 53" = "Speed Sensor" .. at first pass.. cheerz B.

Great... Just what i was after... Now I have something to play with (break) tomorrow.. Althought the ECU diagram (the AEM pdf. version) does have two pins detailed, which sound very similar in function.. PIN 7 = "Tacho" and PIN 53 = "Speed Sensor" Based on the meter's fitting guide (Paragraph below)... which one do you think is best first fit option..? INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: Connect the RED wire to an ignition 12v supply and find a suitable ground for the BLACK wire. The ORANGE wire needs to be connected to the ECU speed output. To locate the correct ECU pin, refer to ECU booklet. Using your vehicles chassis and engine code to locate the correct ECU map, attach the orange wire using the provided wire tap to the ECU speed output wire. IMPORTANT - When installing, ensure that the orange wire is connected to the ECU speed output before the speed de-limiter or speed converter (if fitted). If it is connected after this, it may cause incorrect operation of the unit. cheers Guys B.