Keith v6

looks like swiss roll to me

Can anyone provide me with the thickness measurement of the center bearing spacers for a manual tt. Alternatively, can anyone say for sure that manual & auto are the same thickness. I have just done an auto to manual conversion and am having prop vibration problems. I have checked all the usual and re used bearing and gearbox mount from my auto which was perfect with no problems. I get my prop back in the morning from being balanced but having read through some previous threads, it appears that the angle of the front and rear u/v joints need to be the same. The manual prop is longer at the front than the auto so if I use my auto spacers, surely this will affect the angles? Would like to find out for definite if they are different thicknesses before putting it back together as its been in and out more than times than I care to mention. Anyone have any comments?

I have had these, reply to the email with some bullsh!t and you'll probably get a reply saying "thanks for your reply" and some crap about his wife loving your car and can you send some pictures. These are automated emails and unboubtably want to rip you off.

Rear mount and bearing were used from my auto box/prop which was perfect with no vibration at all so cant see them being the problem. Hopefully it will be resolved when I get the prop back balanced.

Ive just completed a conversion myself and found it all pretty straigh forward. As previously mentioned, its a pain to remove the auto spiggot bush. After hours of hammering, i decided to drill it to weaken it then split it with a chisel - came out easy but be careful not to drill too far into the crankshaft. Next main problem has been the propshaft. Try to get a full manual one to avoid splitting and coupling together your auto rear section with a manual front section. Mine has been vibrating since the conversion and is now away to get balanced despite trying rotating 90 degrees at a time to no avail. These cars seem to be prone to prop vibrating problems and its not easy to get to once put back together (exhaust, heat shields etc). My final piece of advice is to ensure you get all of the parts required if bought as a kit. Despite paying good money, there were numerous parts missing from my "kit" which I have not managed to get hold of yet or have cost me a small fortune (gear knob, gaitor, clutch vacuum tanks, manual balance bar) to name but a few. After all of this, not sure if I prefer manual but have not really had a good run in it yet due to prop problems. Hope this helps.

Has anyone got any photos of the clutch booster system. Need to see where small vacuum tank fits and also layout of pipework. Thanks.

Does anyone know the colours for the neutral switch at the plug behind the headlamp?

This happens to me every now and then. As far as I know, the cat lights just monitor the temperature of the cats via the thermocouples stuck in the side of them. These are in no way connected to the ECU (anyone correct me if I'm wrong) and are only on the Jap spec (again correct me). I would not worry too much about them as if it was a UK spec, you wouldn't know any different. Having said that, someone may know different?

Just short the two wires (black and brown if I remember correctly). They are the heaviest guage wires going to the auto gearbox and are in a black plug on their own. Alternatively you can short out at the relay under the bonnet (big relay far LH corner near boost guage sensor) and eliminate the relay altogether. Cant remember the wire colours at the relay. Possibly black and white & black.

If from the cats back, its fairly straight forward, just a couple of covers need to be removed from the cats for access to bolts to remove rear sections. If front pipes need to come off, three bolts beneath turbos (assuming tt) are easy to get to but may be siezed and may snap.

Cheers, just looked up on diagrams and found it.

I am in the process of doing a manual conversion. Can anyone tell me the purpose of the neutral switch on the manual gearbox, do I need to worry about it?

Ptu?

I have just bought a manual conversion kit from nad300 and will be starting the work soon. Can anyone confirm that there is a spiggot bearing in my auto, is it different to manual and where can i get one for the conversion if different. Also, can anyone supply pics of the pipework for the clutch servo so I can see where it goes. Thanks in advance for any answers, no doubt i'll have a few more questions as I progress through the job which I will do over the next few weeks as and when I get time. Cheers.

I take it its an auto? Have you checked the gearbox fluid level on the dipstick?

Thanks, where can I get the gaskets and half moon rubbers?

Can anyone tell me if its possible to do the rocker cover gaskets with the engine in the car? If so, how easy/difficult are they to do? Cheers.

I had arranged to pick an exhaust up from him over the weekend. He contacted me Friday night to say he had a minor accident in his car so may be why he's not been online.

Many thanks, looks like I'll be doing it then.

what about bellhousing bolts, what do I need to remove for access. Also, are torque converter bolts accessible via starter apeture as with most auto's. Cheers.

Thinking of carrying out a manual conversion. Can anyone advise on potential problems like can all bellhousing bolts be accessed? Haw difficult is it to fit pedals etc.

Tomato sauce butties mmmmmmm...

I put the petrol in it, it was better on fuel than a Z.

Some people hang to the left, some to the right!

When I was a young lad, I used to eat cornflakes. So does Mick Jagger. :p