Keith v6

Would a stuck pcv not cause other problems i.e. low boost pressure etc as there are no other symtoms? Boost pressure is fine.

Thats what I thought but it only leaks when I rev the engine or drive the car. If its just left idling it doesnt leak. PCV valves, pipes etc are all newish so no problems there, perhaps I damaged the rear oil seal when fitting it, looks like the gearbox is coming out again

It will probably be a loose connection on the sensor on the gearbox.

Where is the pressure relief valve, I thought they were to bypass the oil filter if it gets blocked? The filter is brand new, the oil and filter have been changed probably three times in the last 1000 miles for one reason or another. Does anyone else have oil pressure like this? Cheers.

Can anyone tell me what the normal oil pressure should be? I have fitted an aftermarket guage and it reads 30psi on tickover when warm but goes to 100psi when reved to about 4k and above which is as high as it will read. The reason for asking is that I have an oil leak from what appears to be the rear crank oil seal which I replaced when carrying out a manual conversion not many miles ago. If the car is left ticking over, it doesnt leak however when I drive it or rev it high, the rear crank seal leaks. The oil then goes all over the gearbox, exhaust etc. Is 100psi normal as I dont want to go through replacing the rear oil seal again if it wont cure the problem? Any help apreciated. Car is a 1989 twin turbo.

Thanks for replies, some good tips. Especially the one about the Japanese woman. Does anyone know where I can rent one :)

The problem is not getting the old ones off, its getting the new ones on.

Can anyone tell me what I need to do to replace the oil return pipes from the turbos? I bought these pipes a long time ago and attempted to fit one a while back but abandoned the idea after removing the clips and realising that I could not get the hose off. Is there any easy way? Cheers.

Hi Gareth, thanks. Yes my old car would do nicely lol.

Cheers all. I've got a v6 4 motion Golf surplus to requirements at the moment which I will be putting in the cars for sale section in the hope of doing a deal with a Zed. I need to part with this first as I am out of room for another car and don't want to upset the nieghbours by taking up another space.

cheers, all I need now is a Zed. Sold mine last year and want another.

Hi, Just renewed my subscription through paypal, can you please arrange for me to be upgraded to subscribed member. Many thanks.

As has already been said, you dont need to do this as pin 44 is only earthed when the box is in neutral so timing is ok when driving. It's only affected when in neutral so don't worry about it. The only adverse effect I know of is that the engine idles slightly faster than it should.

Had exactly the same problem after a manual conversion. If the prop was split and the front end changed for the manual one, the prop will almost certainly need balancing. I spent many hours splitting the prop and turning through 90 degrees to try to cure with no success. Once I had it balanced, it was completely cured. You need to find someone decent to carry out this work as they have to be dynamically balanced and not everyone can do this. I took mine to a well established local company and they had to send it away even though they had balancing equipment themselves.

It is mounted to the flywheel and requires removal of the gearbox.

Have you tried bypassing the detonation sensor with a 1k ohm (if I remember correctly) resistor. I had the same trouble but seemed to always get 55 when I checked. Also, the temp sensor could be faulty but not necessarily bring up a fault code. My fan kept runnung until I bypassed the det sensor and cleaned the temp sensor connections. When fan stopped running, went to full boost.

Andy, pm sent.

Need some advice as I want to increase the performance of my zed. It is a 1990 jap spec manual conversion TT. I have just bought a boost controller but not yet fitted. The car has an induction kit, still has the cats and what looks like a mongoose cat back system fitted (twin pipe b/boxes). My questions are - what boost is safe for my set up?, what chip would anyone recommend, how much is it likely to cost and where will I get one? Also, what power increase am I likely to get and will it drastically increase fuel consumption? Any advice apreciated.

I would be interested in boost controller, let me know if you are and how much. Cheers.

I have a jap spec 1990 red TT. I need to get some paint as I have removed the spoiler and smoothed it. Does anyone know the code and name of the colour it is likely to be? Cheers.

Thanks very much for all of your replies. I have had an email today. I've never dealt with Luke before so just needed the reassurance. Once again, many thanks.

Does anyone know of any problems with the Z center. I have ordered a perspex strip after removing my spoiler a couple of weeks ago and heard nothing. I have emailed and tried to phone but keep getting engaged tone. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Felt like that myself last weekend while lying under the Z covered in oil. I only use mine at the weekend and cant wait for Saturday now - forgot all of that anger and frustration from last week. Get yourself a weekday runaround if you can.

Having just been through this myself following a manual conversion, I can confirm that getting the prop balanced cured my vibration problems. You need someone who has the facility to do it dynamically. The place I took mine done a 1st class job, unfortunately for you they are based in Liverpool. Hope this helps.

My alternator is also covered in oil. Any ideas anyone?