Bigfish_74

It was a silly mistake in the end, the connector on the ptu, despite the little tabs had gone on the wrong way. Or it was a vacuum leak, had both it's a while ago, not sure what resolved what.

Thanks

Did a smoke check on the turbo oil seals and it was passing through the seals into the exhaust but spoke to Midland turbo who are always very helpful, he says this is normal if you've blocked the oil drain, in most cases its a faulty pcv preventing the oil from draining and so it will find its way through the oil seal, it makes sense with it being both sides.

1990 jdm tt, Car was smoking heavily, white maybe a slight hint of blue so replaced head gaskets, stem seals reseated valves but still smoking, its run for about 2 hours since idling to see if smoke would clear. Engines now out again and there is heavy carbon on the exhaust valves particularly 1 and 2, manifold Carboned, the oxygen sensor casting coated in thick sticky oil, and there is oil coating the test pipes. Turbo exhaust side was coated but has cleaned up and it was refurbished so I'm inclined to rule this out. It was all pointing to the new valve stem seals having failed or fitted incorrectly but on removal of valves they seem tight on the valve stem. There's clearly a lot of oil getting into the exhaust from the 2 hours it's been running. Any thoughts on what I should look at thanks.

I did refurb the injectors and rail so possible somethings gone wrong I'll go there next. There is play as you insert the cas, not sure if it's enough for a full notch but will find out when it goes back together, D seems aligned, not many other options. Thanks again.

Thanks T, spare cas tried, interesting about the drive pin, looks OK from the end and seems to align with the notch (is it meant to). Heads all factory and timing was fine before I pulled it apart, new head gasket supposedly oem. Currently looking for vacuum leaks as started thinking the same, that the stall/ lack of throttle response might be unrelated.

Not getting much time on it but got the covers off and timing belt is fine. Wondering if anybody has had an issue with the variable cam timing? strikes me that if that was faulty and open it would be advancing the timing even at idle to a similar degree I'm experiencing. Faulty solenoid, incorrect cam install, wrong torque settings maybe?

Fair point Lexx, that's maybe the next job.

After timing belt and head gasket done the car will not run, starts easy but fades out over about a minute, very little throttle response. There is a timing issue, on full cas adjustment can only get 30'btdc. Fuel pressure good, tps set ok, spark ok on all, compression is ok but not great, hopefully improve once run in. Injectors seem to be firing ok. Conzult suggests it's rich and shows the timing out but no other faults. Im confident the timing belt is installed correctly. Not sure where to look next so any ideas would be appreciated.

Thought I would post as couldn't find anything about this anywhere online so might save somebody some time. After doing head gaskets and timing belt car would not start, could not get the timing mark anywhere near, actually sparking on no3 cylinder, about 90' out on cam. Turned out to be ptu connector on the wrong way. The outer connector casing had got twisted so it looked right and the connector a bit loose with age so it slid over the 2 and 3 notches. Easy fix in the end just wish I'd found it before removing manifold and valve cover again and buying replacement cas.

Ting into both sides seems wise, thanks for the confirmation

Hey, I am installing a Greddy profec B and just want to check opinions on slightly varying info between the excellent z32 wiki, manual and other online info. Wiki diagram runs the vacuum hose from NO on the valve unit to the solid intake pipe going to the throttle body after the intercooler, the manual shows it connecting to the hose at the other side between turbo and intercooler, surely there is more pressure after the intercooler, which is correct or am I overthinking it? Secondly Wiki suggests the vacuum line on the passenger side can be blocked up, other online info suggests to T into NO from both sides, I can see advantages to this in its giving a balanced reading between both turbos and so if fault/ leak on one side it will show in the figures... Thoughts appreciated thanks.

Guess I'll just leave the switch and box in place for somebody else to scratch there head over down the line. I'll keep hunting for the aftermarket alarm box now. Thanks

That's interesting, what just a visual clue where the front corner is? No sign of it now so guess its had a replacement bumper but that does explain the random loose connector in the passenger wheel arch.

Anyone know what this switch is. Its connected to an aftermarket box fixed to the removable panel below the steering wheel, thought the box was an aftermarket alarm at first.

Thanks guys, found a dripper which seems to be accounting for some/most of the coolant loss, ran it for about an hour today on the drive but dont think it's clearing up much, but I'm still hopeful. Will try again tmrw and keep a closer eye on how much coolant it uses as don't want to face the prospect of another engine pull just yet. Good compression so still don't think its the head gasket but may be wrong.

If I could tap into the Z knowledge again please. 1990 tt jdm auto, resto well underway and heading towards mot. Engine sounds well, idles nice and pulling well but I'm getting excessive white smoke or actually steam equally from both exhausts, smoke is from idle increasing with revs when cold and also warmed up, including pure water dripping out (no coolant in it no smell, nearly fit to drink) It is using quite alot of coolant so it's definitely entering the system somewhere. I know the obvious is the head gasket but my feeling is its not as no other signs at all. My thinking is that it's getting in at exhaust side, my question is can the coolant to the turbos enter the turbo exhaust anyhow, corrosion internally etc I did wonder if I've got the coolant and oil lines swapped but no sign of water in the oil. Any help appreciated. Thanks

Brilliant AndrewG. I had assumed it was original with a Zedworld remap but it has a note saying 16bit improved, so guess it was replaced. Problem solved thank you

Rebuild of the 1990 TT jap auto going well, engine back in and running. Worked through all fault codes and just code 26 left, all voltage checks ok, reading +-2v as pressure changes , replaced the sensor anyway but code remains, yes I'm resetting the codes each time. I'm starting to wonder if it does relate to the boost sensor as that doesn't appear to be connected to the eccs just the gauge. Does it actually refer to the wastegate solenoid circuit? Any help/ thoughts appreciated.

Thanks for clarifying

Hello My Z is fitted with 16" 7.5jj wheels with 225 wide Tyres all around, the owners manual states the TT should have wider 16" 8.5jj wheels at the rear running 245mm tyres. Im trying to do an original restoration so looking for the wider wheels, there are lots of wheels available on the bay but all seem to be the narrower 7.5jj. Can anybody advise please.

New member just saying hello. 1990 2+2 TT Jap import bought a month ago, needs light restoration recommissioning, just working through rusty suspension. It seems it was a leaf connector so all rads, Intercoolers and condenser rotten, apart from that all seems solid and fired up first time. Intend to do 120k service even though only showing 96k km as not much history. The AC is puzzling me at the moment all UK stock seems to be discontinued, could get a condenser from US but not found much else, so would be interested to hear if any alternatives or UK suppliers Thanks Andrew