Which one of those should fit my Z

It's a jdm N/A.

 

I bought h3c after looking back through the forum but the ones i took out seem to have h3U written on them.

 

The bulb i took out has a white "tail" and is considearbly shorter than the first but when i plug it into the loom it still lights up. can i keep using them?

H3c for all Imports

H3 for UK

 

Never heard of H3U

http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/specialist-import-amp-pre-1970s-car-bulbs-c-655.htm

got bulbs for my import last week H3C could get them nowere not even on ebay but found them on this site

http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/specialist-import-amp-pre-1970s-car-bulbs-c-655.htm

got bulbs for my import last week H3C could get them nowere not even on ebay but found them on this site

 

Link not working.

 

Danny @ DTA sells them, in the forums traders section.

 

Should ditch bulbs though and upgrade to HID's the difference is amazing. One of the best Modifications you can get.

http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/home.php#

try this

Or try this: http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/headlights.php

 

HID's can be found here: http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/hid.php

 

And finally, all your other bulbs (including "silvertec" bulbs) are here: http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/bulbs.php

 

;)

 

Regards,

 

Dan

Hi Dan

 

Please could you give me some advice. Firstly, the bulbs I have for my headlights have two parallel flat terminals facing each other. Is that H3 or H3c?

 

Secondly, I am keen to move to HID. However, I believe there is a waiting time when switching on and off. Doesn't sound like they would be much use for the brights. Is it advisable to replace headlights and brights with HID?

 

If I go for bulbs, what would you want to sell me a pair of PIAA 55W Halogens (brightest possible) and ship them to South Africa?

 

Thanks.

two parallel terminals are H3c bulbs

 

H3 bulbs have a single turminal on the end of a short bit of wire, you can install these as they are easier to get hold of, but you have to wire your own ground wire, usually done with a small bit of wire and connected to the screw inside the bulb hole, parralel to the retaining clip.

 

10 min jobby

mine being an import would be h3c then? want to change to hid, got a kit but with wrong bulbs did someone mention i can just buy the correct bulbs and still use me kit?

 

dan.:D

h3c are the standard jdm bulb (had to get mine from e bay) as halfrauds hadnt even seen one before !:slap:

Dannyzx - yes you can. I've got plenty of H3 HID bulbs (6000K) in stock if you need a pair.

 

CK300Z - should've asked me mate - I stock H3C bulbs!

 

Mooch - By the sound of it your current bulbs are H3C (you must have a Fairlady imported from Japan - right?) If you're installing a HID kit I would recommend you only install it in the dip-beam location (ie, the projector lens, not reflector which are your main-beam/brights). You are right about the turn-on time - it is approximately 2 seconds depending on the kit you buy. What I suggest you do is install a H3 HID kit in the dip-beam and upgrade your main-beam to one of our Xtreme White H1/55W bulbs (I also do a 100W variant if required). Then earth one of your HID bulbs to the chassis which will allow the HID bulbs to remain on when you use the main-beams/brights to flash. In all likelyhood you won't need to use your brights after installing the HID kit.

 

I would be happy to provide you with a complete quote including shipping to South Africa. However, due to previous experiences of shipping to RSA I would only use DHL or UPS to guarantee you actually receive the goods!

 

I hope the above makes sense.

 

Look forward to hearing from you.

 

Regards,

 

Dan

Dannyzx - yes you can. I've got plenty of H3 HID bulbs (6000K) in stock if you need a pair.

 

CK300Z - should've asked me mate - I stock H3C bulbs!

 

 

only if i'd known Dan:( rest assured it's a sale for next time :rofl:but will prob consider hid b4 long

 

chris

You are right about the turn-on time - it is approximately 2 seconds depending on the kit you buy. What I suggest you do is install a H3 HID kit in the dip-beam and upgrade your main-beam to one of our Xtreme White H1/55W bulbs (I also do a 100W variant if required). Then earth one of your HID bulbs to the chassis which will allow the HID bulbs to remain on when you use the main-beams/brights to flash.

 

please explain this further, im interested...

Ok - first of all do a search for "HID" & "main beam" and enough threads will come up with relevant information.

 

But in the interest of keeping this thread factual let me try to explain what I meant.

 

If you install HIDs in the dip-beams and you either wish to "flash" someone or switch to your main-beams then the way the solenoid works is that it turns the HID's off and the main-beams on. This is not too bad if you then drive with the main-beams on for some time before switching back to dip-beam. However, if you flash someone then it will turn the HID's off and on again within the space of a few seconds (at most). This switching on and of is detrimental to the lifespan of HID bulbs (not to mention the ballasts who need to provide massive voltage changes in a matter of seconds). There are a couple of solutions to this problem:

 

(1) The easy solution: earth one of the HID bulbs to the chassis (the solenoid uses the earth to switch the mains on/of). This will ensure that when flashing or switching to main-beam the HID's remain on.

 

(2) The more sophisticated solution: rewire the main-beam solenoid in the main fuse box in the engine bay. It would take a long time to explain how this is done but if you do a search for it you will find several references to it.

 

I have run the HID's in my car using the first solution and have not had any problems in well over 2.5 years of having it that way. Ideally I'd like to rework it using the second solution but then my "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mentality kicks in ;) LOL.

 

I hope the above is clear - if not please let me know and I'll give the explanation another go!

 

Regards,

 

Dan

(1) The easy solution: earth one of the HID bulbs to the chassis (the solenoid uses the earth to switch the mains on/of). This will ensure that when flashing or switching to main-beam the HID's remain on

 

My car is a JDM and therefor came with H3c bulbs originally

Ive since changed to H3 bulbs and grounded to the headlight housing

and changed again to a H3 HID kit utilizing the grounding in the housing.

 

But... my hid's still go off when i flash my main beam

 

question:

Do I have to re-ground to the chassis?

My car is a JDM and therefor came with H3c bulbs originally

Ive since changed to H3 bulbs and grounded to the headlight housing

and changed again to a H3 HID kit utilizing the grounding in the housing.

 

But... my hid's still go off when i flash my main beam

 

question:

Do I have to re-ground to the chassis?

 

Yes, the problem is that the grounding the headlight housing does nothing for HID bulbs which tend to have plastic bulb holders (for lack of a better word). You'll find that if you earth one of the spade connectors coming off the bulb you'll solve your problem. I can't remember whether it is the red or black wire - these seem to be interchangeable amongst different bulb manufacturers ... Try one and if that doesn't work try earthing the other. Don't worry if you earth the wrong one first - the bulb just won't light up.

 

HTH

 

Dan

Dannyzx - yes you can. I've got plenty of H3 HID bulbs (6000K) in stock if you need a pair.

 

 

thanks do you have anything higher than 6000k?-8000-9006

 

dan. :D

ta dta, will try this

thanks do you have anything higher than 6000k?-8000-9006

 

dan. :D

 

Sure - I normally only stock 6000K bulbs but can get 5000K and 8000K bulbs by special request. The latter is really too blue/purple to be effective and I certainly wouldn't go to 10,000K or even 12,000K (as advertised frequently on eBay).

 

Heres a handy rule: 6000K is the equivalent of daylight (ie, brilliant white with a hint of blue), it also produces the highest lumens (ie, light projected onto the street). If you go any higher you are increasing the colour temperature but decreasing the lumens. So, the ideal compromise is 6000K bulbs. Anything over that attracts unwanted attention from the boys in blue and VOSA at MOT time (IMHO).

that makes sense, i will have a set of the 6000k for a jap import then please :) how much and how you want paying ?

 

dan.:hyper:

that makes sense, i will have a set of the 6000k for a jap import then please :) how much and how you want paying ?

 

dan.:hyper:

 

The bulbs are £25 each so £50 plus £5.85 postage (via Special Delivery). Payment can be made via paypal (paypal@dta-motorsport.co.uk) or if you prefer I can also take credit/debit card payments over the phone (call me on 0845 4744382). Before you make payment - take a look at the attached picture and make sure that the connectors on your bulbs match the "universal" connectors on the left in the picture.

 

Regards,

 

Dan

thanks Dan looks like mines have the same connectors (pic)so will be sending paypal to you £55.85 :)

 

dan.:D

payment sent.

 

dan.:hyper:

payment sent.

 

dan.:hyper:

 

Hi Dan,

 

Thanks for the payment - all received.

 

Your bulbs have been packaged and will be sent out this afternoon.

 

FYI - you were sold 9006 bulbs which is what US-spec Zeds have!

 

Regards,

 

Dan

Hi Dan

 

Thanks for your advice. I would like to start by going for the two HID's 6000K (and maybe get the Mains later). Please could you give me a quote for two of them UPS'd to SA and I will PayPal you.

 

Cheers.

thanks Dan bulbs arrived friday and all fitted,look GREAT:hyper: if anyone can make use of the hid bulbs had originally drop me a line you can have em :D

 

thanks again.

 

dan.:)

Edited November 15, 200817 yr by dannzx