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Evening all, Is there such things as coolers for the auto box for the jap imports iam sure ive heard of people talking about them any ideas.

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Evening all, Is there such things as coolers for the auto box for the jap imports iam sure ive heard of people talking about them any ideas.

 

Yep, i have one fitted to mine, as i was advised to when i was fitting an EBC. I got mine brand new from a member who bought it and realised his car already had one fitted. But i'm pretty sure zcentre do one and i would imagine there'll be plenty of other places sell them aswell. HTH :)

So what exactly does it do cool the gear box oil???

 

Spot on mate :)

 

On a standard auto zed the radiator is slightly different to a manual one, as it has a couple of extra pipes that are used to cool your auto box fluid. Fitting an aftermarket one is more efficient :)

 

HTH :)

you NEED one if you have an autobox, the original is prone to blocking up because its too small, uk autos have them as standard

not hard there is a how-to-guide somewhere (someone will point this out tonight) just involves getting under the car

Just a word of caution with regard to the ZCentre autobox cooler. The way that setup works is you use the new larger cooler for the engine oil and use the old (smaller) engine oil cooler for the autobox. This has two inherent problems:

 

(1) the old engine cooler is ... er, old en prone to failure/leakage/etc

(2) cross contamination of fluids (ie you really don't want engine oil running through your autobox)

 

The best way forward (IMHO) is to use the new autobox cooler exclusively for the autobox. You'll need to make sure you check the fluid level after installation and top up to the mark as adding lines and a cooler increases the capacity of the A/T cooling system and you don't want to be low on oil.

 

I "was" working on what I thought was the best A/T cooler kit on the market but got side tracked somewhat by other events. The setup was a 13-row half width cooler with braided lines running all the way back to the banjo points on the side of the gearbox. This would completely by-pass the existing cooling lines which are probably clogged anyway and increase cooling efficiency tremendously. I've got the cooler, connectors and hoses but am struggling with finding a suitable location for it all. Plus, I'd need to have a mounting bracket fabricated as well. As I said before, the project has come to a standstill for the time being but I'm sure I'll pick it up again soon.

 

 

HTH

 

Regards,

 

Dan

I,ve got 2 Mocal coolers , one for engine and other the autobox :dance:

IMAG0002-2.jpg

If you dont mind me asking how musch did it all cost thanks.

 

At the moment it's primarily R&D costs so not an accurate reflection of retail cost but to date it has cost me £120.00 in parts. To this I still need to add fabrication costs for the mounting bracket which will probably be another £15~£20.

At the moment it's primarily R&D costs so not an accurate reflection of retail cost but to date it has cost me £120.00 in parts. To this I still need to add fabrication costs for the mounting bracket which will probably be another £15~£20.

 

Hi Dan

 

Mine came with a superb bracket which bolts at an angle to the existing engine oil cooler mounting points, and angles the cooler so it picks up flow from main bumper intake.

 

Its in heavy S/S so needs no other support!

 

I took a card template so I can get another made up for my other Z- would be happy to take pics to make this clearer, and send you a copy of the template if it helps- at least I can vouch that it fits perfectly with a large cooler in that space!

 

Totally agree with your comments regarding using old engine cooler for transmission- max cooling an absolute must and explained why in the very informed advice from the scorpio owners site- same principle;

 

 

.... I was told that basically you will find two sorts of plates within a gearbox. Ones that look obviously shagged, and ones that show very little signs of wear. They become very quickly damaged only after the seals have started to wear, and hydraulic pressure starts to fall off (it was something of a surprise to me to realise that the job of all those springs that you compress in order to strip the clutch, is in fact to keep the clutch in the OPEN. position, so not only does the pressure behind the piston have to contend with 150 horsepower (in the case of the Ford obviously!), it also has to overcome the resistance of these springs-in itself no small amount of force!!).

 

I guess that this amount of spring pressure is to ensure that the clutch disengages instantly, once hydraulic pressure to it is cut off. Given the amount of 'meat' on the plates in comparison to, say, the clutch plates on a small motorcycle engine ( almost identical design of clutch, but much thicker plates, yet they may only have to contend with 10% of the horsepower, perhaps), one can conclude that these clutches are designed to snap open and shut with the absolute minimum of slip- any weakness in the hydraulic action will allow slippage, as will weak 'opening' springs, and the clutch will fail very rapidly.

 

In essense, if hydraulic line pressure drops within the box through overheating, the danger is slippage and rapid clutch plate wear.

 

Obviously cooling helps minimise this danger, and using Fully Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid would be the best thing for the Auto-Box to cope the extra h.p. and keep it cool as possible.

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards

 

Dave

Dave -

 

That is a very kind offer and I would appreciate a look at that template. If you've got any pics please fling them over to info@dta-motorsport.co.uk. Otherwise, if you're happy to do so please pop a copy of the template (just paper will be fine) in the post to me at DTA-Motorsport (UK), 1 Allendale Avenue, Studley, Warwickshire, B80 7QA.

 

Much appreciated mate!

 

Look forward to hearing from you.

 

Regards,

 

Dan

boldy, i think you need a chimney sweep up in there m8 :)

 

:d:d

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