now im no mechanic but while looking under my car i thought that the turbos dont look that hard to remove!

reason im asking is ive got an oil leak coming off the bottom gasket( is this serious?)

another thing is i tried the bolts holding the gasket(turbo) and they tightened,this didnt seem right to me!

can anyone give me some advice,this is not a job id do myself but i am interested in how.

 

cheers jay

?? to me they look like a right bitch to get to, i know you have to take the engine out to get to them from the top,

 

people say you can get to them from the bottom but its still a git to do, my mechaninc said he could do it by dropping the exhaust, petrol tank and some other stuff to get to them fromunderneath but it still takes them a few days to do it.

 

 

I would like to know why he has to take off the petrol tank from the back of the car to get at the turbos at the front.

don't know i am probably recalling conversation wrong or getting confused with some work my freind had done on an Mr2

 

he's a top zed mecahinc though, originally worked with them when Nissan introduced them

 

Mike

Turbo removal is a complete PITA trust me!!! I'm doing it at the moment and have the engine out etc etc etc...

 

The problem is not getting the tubos off in the car - its getting them back on with correct torques on bolts. Engine out is the only real option... OR work down from the top, removing the upper plenum, lower intake, then heads with manifolds turbos etc. This would actually be quite a good idea if you want to change the head gaskets at the same time, otherwise its just extra expense...

 

HTH

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

It can be done without removing the engine or plenum chamber but it's a real bugger of a job, takes incredible patience, lots of long thin extortions and I'll guarantee you skin every knuckle!

 

The hardest part was removing the oil feed - but as it's probably full of carbon anyway it's as well to cut it and buy/make up new ones. (nb - mine's a 1990 and has brake pipe style connections - I believe later models might have a banjo fitting) The other hard part was the locking tabs but surprisingly most of the bolts came out without problems. It's all covered in the workshop manual except that it shows LHD instead of RHD. Also it implies that you take the downpipes off, then the pre-cats. It's actually much easier to leave the downpipe attached to the pre-cat and remove as one unit.

 

 

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Bloody spell checker - that should read extensions!

 

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