Every time I do a job lately on my Z I seem to find more rust. (Its a UK 1990 TT).

I have just been fitting an amp power lead through the bung in the front passanger side wheel arch and a hole had already rusted through at the bottom below the bung.

When I took my spoiler off I found huge holes where the hatch had rusted away in the corners.

The reason for this post is I have noticed a couple of na jap cars with damaged engines going for £500 - £600 lately, I am considering buying one of these with a good jap body and fitting my TT engine as I have sorted it out and it is running really well.

How long would it take to convert a na to TT, would I need any special tools etc? Is it a fairly straight forward job just swopping the bits over?

Big job mate but I have heard many have re-shelled. IIRC Slick Pete has done a few or he has at least sold a few shels to people doing just that.

Were going to see reshelling become increasingly popular from now on as more of them go to rust heaven.

 

You could probably find a good Jap TT rolling shell for less from a breakers. I know that SWZ are breaking 4 currently (LWB and SWB, TT and NA) and get at least 1 or 2 new breakers every week. They get a lot of requests for rolling shells.

 

Its a shame to see good shells taken to the scrap yard after they have been stripped when they could be put to good use.

Were going to see reshelling become increasingly popular from now on as more of them go to rust heaven.

 

You could probably find a good Jap TT rolling shell for less from a breakers. I know that SWZ are breaking 4 currently (LWB and SWB, TT and NA) and get at least 1 or 2 new breakers every week. They get a lot of requests for rolling shells.

 

Its a shame to see good shells taken to the scrap yard after they have been stripped when they could be put to good use.

 

Agreed :cry:

The Blue Series 2 NA that I am advertizing is one of the nicest cars I have seen.Even the rear spoiler is good. There is no rust at all on the upper body. Underneath its virtually the same. Lots of nice features on the Jap ser 2. Proper pillar mounted seat belts. Lap and Diag rear belts. Directional adjustable Air con. etc

IMO its worth a short trip from Leicester up the M1 to Jun 26 to have a look.

i could even deliver it!!:wack:

id love to be competent enough to do this

How easy is it to change the shell?

How easy is it to change the shell?

Well you basically removing all the parts of your own car (engine, suspension, transmission, interior, brakes..etc) and putting it in the new shell.

Well you basically removing all the parts of your own car (engine, suspension, transmission, interior, brakes..etc) and putting it in the new shell.

 

Which parts are different on the TT to a na? I would keep the na back end getting rid of the Hicas and be putting my TT engine in, but are the brakes, suspension and transmission different?

Which parts are different on the TT to a na? I would keep the na back end getting rid of the Hicas and be putting my TT engine in, but are the brakes, suspension and transmission different?

 

rear brakes are the same on all.

Front brakes are slightly smaller up on an NA up to late 91

 

Suspension is the same except for spring rates and Rear Antiroll bar size

 

Complete rear subframe and rear Diff is different as you've mentioned, and its a good idea to keep the NA rear for the lower weight, hicas removal and gearing.

 

Gearboxes and propshafts are different, but fit both engines. NA gearbox will require NA clutch & flywheel but you can modifiy the bellhousing if you want to fit TT clutch/flywheel.

 

You would need to weld on brackets for the Intercooler piping as the NA chassis is missing them.

 

Fuel pump is different (easy swap)

ECU is different (easy swap)

EFI Wiring loom is different, you would need to fit a Electronic Boost controller.

If you are thinking of re-shelling, I would definitely fit a new engine bay loom whilst the engine is out which makes it so easy to do, and also change the nylon bushes which fit in the brackets holding the steering rack to the front crossmember.

rear brakes are the same on all.

Front brakes are slightly smaller up on an NA up to late 91

 

Suspension is the same except for spring rates and Rear Antiroll bar size

 

Complete rear subframe and rear Diff is different as you've mentioned, and its a good idea to keep the NA rear for the lower weight, hicas removal and gearing.

 

Gearboxes and propshafts are different, but fit both engines. NA gearbox will require NA clutch & flywheel but you can modifiy the bellhousing if you want to fit TT clutch/flywheel.

 

You would need to weld on brackets for the Intercooler piping as the NA chassis is missing them.

 

Fuel pump is different (easy swap)

ECU is different (easy swap)

EFI Wiring loom is different, you would need to fit a Electronic Boost controller.

 

It only the bellhousing on the gearbox thats different. Same box and like you said you can grind a mill of the inner edge of the NA bell housing to make it fit and put a 2m spaceron the strarter motor and bobs your uncle

It only the bellhousing on the gearbox thats different. Same box and like you said you can grind a mill of the inner edge of the NA bell housing to make it fit and put a 2m spaceron the strarter motor and bobs your uncle

 

The internals are differnet also, most of the internals have separate part numbers for NA and TT.

oppss , above ^^^ post was from me, using Paul's PC

If you are thinking of re-shelling, I would definitely fit a new engine bay loom whilst the engine is out which makes it so easy to do, and also change the nylon bushes which fit in the brackets holding the steering rack to the front crossmember.

 

Yep, I was thinking it would be good time to put new a loom, det sensor and the pipes at the rear while the engine was out.

I am still unsure if to go for a na shell which seem to be cheaper at the moment or wait for a TT shell which I think might be easier.

I have no welding experience, I know Legrath mentioned about the intecooler brackets needing welding, I also noticed that looking at a na and a TT the top rad brackets are in different places, so more work there as well.