I have just got my car back form being converted to a manual... But couple of tiny niggles.

 

One of which is the idle is slightly high, say 1300 rpm (as an auto it was good as gold about 750 to 800rpm all the time)

 

It also seems to rev a little when started.

 

Now im just charging my laptop to go check the TPS but is there anything else it could be... one thought that popped into my mind is that its now got a lightened flywheel, could this have affected it and its simply a case of the car needing to relearn whats needed to tickover (because i have to say from when i picked it up this morning to now its got better through the day...)

 

Also after acceleration as im lifting of the throttle, just before the dump valves operate there is a little noise, sounds like water dripping on somthing hot BUT that also sounds like a bit of an air leak/boost leak.

 

Sounds from drivers side towards the rear of the engine, easily audiable from the drivers seat, anyone know what that might be?

 

Cheers guys!

Check the ignition timing - if the gearbox neutral hasn't been connected then the timing will be at 25 degrees which would cause a slightly high idle.

 

Check for boost leaks though as they would also cause a high idle...

Check the ignition timing - if the gearbox neutral hasn't been connected then the timing will be at 25 degrees which would cause a slightly high idle.

 

Check for boost leaks though as they would also cause a high idle...

 

You know i was just thinking about that, is that also linked to a switch on the clutch pedal?

 

Because it does sound a little differnt on tick over...

 

I think that must be it mate. How hard is that to check my self?

Are you using datascan or conZult? Just get the car up to operating temperature then see what the ignition timing is at idle :)

 

Nothing to do with the clutch switch I don't think

i have both ;) Okay dude, just trying to get some juice into the old lappy... If it is at 25*, then how do i fix that?

Fix by connecting the neutral switch from the gearbox to the ecu LOL.

 

TBH it isn't an issue really, you will just have a slightly high idle. Don't permanently ground the ecu pin as then the car will have the wrong timing when driving ;)

lol okay, is connecting that switch an easy job?

 

Yeah i realise its not a massive issue, just somthing i'll try and fix, then break somthing else and give up on! lol

lol okay, is connecting that switch an easy job?

 

Yeah i realise its not a massive issue, just somthing i'll try and fix, then break somthing else and give up on! lol

 

Just requires running a twin cable from the 'box to the ecu. Ground one side and connect the other to the ECU pin. See if it really is the problem by temporarily grounding the pin - will find out which pin number, 2 secs :)

Pin 44 apparently http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=570880&postcount=3

Ah ha. Awesome, okay mate i'll look at doing this then. But your correct, good shout timing at 25 BTDC, manually knocked it back to 15 with conzult, and it sounded as it used to...

 

So there in lies that problem, anyone any idea about the water dripping and rapidly evaporating/air leak noise? Do we think boost leak or anything to do with the clutch booster?

Good good :D

 

Is there a check valve on the clutch booster line?

Yeah there is. Not an original one tho, it was a substitute

Well that rules out pressurising the booster then lol. Without hearing it its difficult to diagnose tbh

No visable fluid leaks, so i dont think its anything critical. I'll keep an ear out for it and try and work it out.

 

Ive got another rear faffy one as well... And im being really anal here BUT my electric arial used to go up when on radio, and down when the stereo was of OR on CD... now if the stereo is one at all (radio or CD) the arial is up.... Anyone know why??

 

LOL

 

And also... last one i promise, the small rectangular "notification lights" in the bottom left of the dash ("Lights", Cruise Control etc) now do not work... Any ideas again? Again extreme analism coming through lol

 

Pic of the results below ;)

My neutral switch is on its way out too. my timing swaps between 15 and 25 on idle sometimes without engaging a gear... lol been like that for ages and it just idles a little high.

Aerial will be the CD settings (battery will have been disconnected).

 

Lights - check the connector is still attached lol. If you take the speedo cluster cover off the connector is mounted on the LHS of the cluster

Seen one other Z with a dodgy neutral switch, might start getting common with age? On the other hand, it could possibly be a faulty CAS is it keeps jumping...

Aerial will be the CD settings (battery will have been disconnected).

 

Lights - check the connector is still attached lol. If you take the speedo cluster cover off the connector is mounted on the LHS of the cluster

 

 

Ha.. right okay dokey, those two for tomorrow then

 

Yeah i remember you mentioning that pete, similar to mine then. I'll leave it, doesnt make much difference really i suppose, i'll give it a try somtime i think

Ha.. right okay dokey, those two for tomorrow then

 

Yeah i remember you mentioning that pete, similar to mine then. I'll leave it, doesnt make much difference really i suppose, i'll give it a try somtime i think

I never noticed it was doing it until i fitted the infometer, so i wouldnt worry about it.

With regards the switches on the box, I have just removed the manual box from my donor car and have noticed the 2 switches on the rear top of the box have the wires cut. It does seem straight forward as Andy says to connest the switch to the ECU. I have attached a pic of the side of the box and am guessing the neutral switch is one of the 2 that are cut to the bone as in the pic.

 

Cheers John