I dont want to seem like im spamming these threads but my 300zx needs alot of work to get it to how i want it

 

My 300zx idles diferently whenever it feels like it,

sometimes it idles high sometimes low, i think it might have somthing to do with the ambiant temp as when its very cold like this morning it was idling very high 1.2rpm and i know its not the choke because it was idling high the whole duration but not as high as when i first started the car...

 

sometimes it idles very low .750

im confused.

 

I also get a very strong smell of petrol in side the car and outside, even the police picked up the smell from outside the car when they pulled me over the other night for a random breath test.

 

Mind you the petrol smell comes and goes. sometimes not at all and sometimes the whole duration?????

 

:(((

Idle can be caused by lots of things - do a search and you'll get step by step instructions: you need to clean all the electrical connections, make sure throttle position sensor is set correctly, clean/ replace engine temp sensor and it will more than likely be fixed...

 

Fuel smell is common problem - just hunt round the engine and tighten every jubilee clip you can see on the fuel lines... if you're struggling, you can sprinkle some talc on them and then it'll be obvious where the fuel's coming from.

 

Rich

Thanks rich il have a go today,, woohoo day off, give me some time to concentrate. :)

750rpm is about right for an auto, a manual should be a little lower.

even lower? hmmmm mine has never been below 750 and its manual.

where is the engine temp sensor????

where is the engine temp sensor????

 

on thhe top of the upper water pipe on front of the engine - can't remember which side now, but it's the yellow one - the other is for the fan, if you follow the cable it's obvious which is which...

ok il give it a clean etc, just another thing on my list... god i got loads to do :(

Combined with the heavy clutch issue, could well be a split in the booster diaphram ;)

booster diaphram i dont even know what that is??

ok cleaned the sensor etc and checked idle sensor is fine. must be booster diaphram... where is it what do i do? i do hear a wistle noise when i press the clutch in???? like air comeing out or sumthing.

Clutch booster - just like the brake booster :) Its on the inside of the bulkhead, bit fiddly to get to....

yeah thats where the funny wistle noise sounds like its coming from. damn, so thats why its also idling high? any tips?

Take out the drivers seat first - seems like overkill but you'll then be able to lie on your back and work easier :)

ok so it is where the actual clutch pedal is? so i will need to buy a new one? i shuved my head down there and located the noise, u think its split or something? really dont wanna start spending money on that :(

Yep its between the pedal and the bulkhead. Try one of the breakers on here to see if they have one but I doubt they will due to them all being snapped up by people wanting to do auto-manual conversions, plus I doubt they'll want to split what could be a complete conversion kit :( In the meantime, try plugging the Vac feed to the booster, you'll have a heavy clutch but you won't have an air leak ;) For price new contact MJP in traders section

 

Cheers,

 

Andy

Thanks once again andy :) il try my best.

so annoying.

i got loads of other probs i have not even started on :(

cant get rear fog light working or hazards for MOT :(

rear wishbones need replacing too and i dont think my rear wheel steering is workng :(

ah well

Hazards is more than likely just the switch - or more specificaly, just broken its mountings (very very common).

 

Rear fog? Is it a UK or imprt?

 

What's up with the rear wishbnes? The rear steering only turns the wheels VERY slightly, what makes you think its not working?

 

Maybe these should go on another thread lol

 

Cheers,

 

Andy

yeah i dont want to spam the forum with loads of my threads. u shud be able to see the rear wheels turn slighty when the car is still at full lock, it does not move at all. and the rear wishbone ball joints have play in them which im sure they wont pass mot, i have changed the hazard switch etc taken it apart a few times, duno whats wrong with them, and yes it is an import doe that mean i dont need a fog?

Don't worry about posting as many threads as you want to :) Subscribing might help ease your conscience though ;) lol

 

The play in the rear wishbones, is it side to side or up and down? If its side to side then its the HICAS (rear steering) balljoints rather than the wishbones that need replacing. You won't see ANY rear steering when the car is stationary - its only activated at speed ;)

 

You still need a fog unfortunately, but since its an import it will be much easier/quicker just to run new cables rather than suss out whats wrong with the existing ones...

 

Cheers,

 

Andy

yeah its side to side. so ur saying its not the wishbones? i had them checked at my mates garage he said it was the ball joints, but they are suppose to turn i suppose. so what speed does the steering activate? and how can i tell if soemone has deactivated it? oh and let me know if u see a clutch booster, il be getting a tired leg.

 

and from a previous thread, i said when its cold its hard to get it into 1st and second crunchs, u said clutch needs bleeding do u think that will solve it? what else could it be just in case?

HICAS Diagnostic:

Turbos come standard with High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension, a fancy way to say 4 wheel steering. There's a visual diagnostic mode to check for problems in the HICAS functions. The 90-93 TTs have hydrolic HICAS running off the power steering pump, where '94+ utilizes electric actuators to handle the rear steering chores. Their codes are a little different, but the procedure is the same. It might required a few tries to make it work. Be persistant!

 

Procedure:

 

1. Ignition switch 'off' manual tranny in neutral or A/T in 'P'

 

2. Start the engine

 

3. Within 10 seconds after turning the key to 'ON', start the engine, turn steering wheel from left to right 20 degrees from neutral 5 times or more times & pump the brakes 5 times. Then press the brake pedal again to enter the test mode.

 

4. Turning the steering wheel left or right past 20 degrees from neutral will cause the rear wheels to turn slightly (~1 degree) (1.).

 

5. Drive the car forward 15 feet under 9mph to enter the full diagnostic mode.

 

6. The HICAS dash light will flash a code indicating any problems. Long flash is first digit, short flash is 2nd digit.

 

7. Diagnostic mode is exited when: ignition is turned off, vehicle speed exceeds 9mph, or diagnostic has operated for 5 minutes.

 

HICAS light codes for '90-'93:

 

1. HICAS solenoid R.H.

2. HICAS solenoid L.H.

3. Cut-off valve

4. Power Steering solenoid

5. Vehicle Speed sensor

6. Steering angle sensor

7. Steering Neutral positon sensor

8. A/T: Parking Brake Sensor M/T: Clutch sensor

9. A/T: Inhibitor sensor M/T: Neutral sensor

 

HICAS light codes for '94-'99:

 

11. HICAS control unit

12. HICAS motor power supply not present

13. HICAS motor output not present

21. Vehicle speed signal not present

22. Steering angle sensor angle signal not present

23. Steering angle sensor neutral not present

24. Rear main sensor input not present

25. Rear sub sensor input not present

31. Parking brake sensor input not present

32. Inhibitor switch (A/T) or nuetral switch (M/T) input not present

33. Engine speed signal not present

im trying it this second :)

i look like an idiot and i cant get it working :(

nope didnt work

Its a nightmare getting the HICAS diagnostic to work LOL. Yeah still think the clutch needs bleeding. Nissan part number for the booster is 30630-45P00. It will be the HICAS balljoints that are worn, get both inner and outer done at the same time :)

 

Cheers,

 

Andy