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Hi everyone i'm new on here, looking foward to getting to know you lot.

 

unfortunately i didnt want it to be under these circumstances but.

 

i'm from the north east (south shields) just bought a zed with 54k on the clock. had it a couple of weeks and now it doesnt start.

 

can anyone recommend a garage or advice on where to get parts.

 

ive been reading the forums and it has the same symptoms as some ppls on here. at first it hesitates (revs drop) when i press the accelerator then picks up. then I had trouble getting it started and now it just doesnt start.

 

also fan comes on at start up.

 

is there a way of getting codes without taking to garage?

 

any help would be appreciated.

 

chris.

 

hope to meet you all soon.

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  • Author

hi all

 

gave the connectors a proper clean, noticed that the yellow plug (after removing all the black rubber) was brown as if it has overheated also the sheath for the wires looks like it has over heated/melted, ive since removed the yellow plug and put a spare one i got off a vectra (fits the same), checked the resistance between terminals on the plug before reconnecting and got about 20k is this right or should it be higher than that?

 

also the guy i bought this car off said that it has a blitz stand alone ecu and recommends super unleaded i didnt know this and ran it on normal unleaded for a couple of days how bad is it using normal unleaded and would you be able to tell?

 

chris

not a good idea at all to run it on regular...

 

Since its an import, it will have originally been mapped for Jap fuel @ 100ron (regular over here is a piss poor 95).

 

Even more so with the stand alone ECU i would say it is an absolute necessity to run it on v-power (if you can, 99 ron).

Check what its been mapped for, but if your not careful and you do run it on 95 ron you greatly increase the chance of detonation and that normally spells good by engine...

  • Author

ok heres and update, incase anyone is interested

 

ive checked the plugs and they were black with soot covered over them, i'm assuming this is because the buggered sensor was was making the ecu dump too much fuel. so changed the plugs today (what a chew on having to move the rail above number 6 cylinder) and fired up staright away, idle is still up and down though so when the sensor goes on tomorrow hopefully that will sort the idle. i will also check ecu to see if the code is gone but if it hasnt does that mean i have to get the ecu reset and can that be done manually?

 

hope this helps anyone with tha same symptoms as me.

 

any info on resetting codes pn the ecu would be great,

  • Author

this is to quavey,

the ecu was mapped in england i think, but i was reading some info on octane number and the higher octane number reduces the likleyhood of preignition before the spark, this higher octane fuel is needed when the compression is raised to prevent preignition, but to raise the compression dont you have to change the pistons?

 

so with that reasoning i cant see how using normal unleaded would preignight before the spark or make any difference for that matter unless i upped the compression ratio. any pointers on this to help me understand would be appreciated.

 

cheers chaps.

 

chris

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